Project Wheels Up

vanderchevy18

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Well you know, it's the small things. It's like a service to other members. LOL

Tomorrow I'll get the trans brake going. I've been told by multiple racers at the track that if I get the 1.54 60' back, it would turn my 10.7x into a 10.1x. We'll see.

I'm going to order nitrous stuff tomorrow as well. I really don't know what to get so I'm just going to order another single zex kit and run the launching shot off of a full throttle switch and the main shot the way I'm doing it now. Right now it's off of a full throttle switch and an arming switch. When I hit second gear I flip on the arming switch. So basically when I start out I'll have the pilot shot on and armed. When I let off the brake and floor it the pilot shot will start. Then when it hits second gear I'll flip on the main shot. That should really take care of the 60'-330' nicely.

So with the added nitrous, trans brake, and weather that isn't 80% humidity, maybe.....just maybe.... I can get it into the 9's. Lofty goal I know, but it's my goal anyway. Hell the thing is still running an original base file tune where 1 medium size shot of nitrous is cleaning up all the smoke. There's more left and I'm going to get it. Maybe this next Friday....
 

vanderchevy18

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Danny that was bouncing after the camera. It would lose traction and then catch then lose traction and catch causing it to bounce. At least that's the way it felt. It wasn't bouncing till then. Hoping a wing on the back will help.

Matt I am using that single 127 jet still. I believe it's zex's 300hp shot.
 

Hotrodtractor

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I can't. If I don't run nitrous it doesn't load the suspension hard enough to stay in it. It just unloads and tries to kill me.

Danny that was bouncing after the camera. It would lose traction and then catch then lose traction and catch causing it to bounce. At least that's the way it felt. It wasn't bouncing till then. Hoping a wing on the back will help.

If you suspension is unloading like you describe - its because it is behaving exactly as described earlier in this thread. It is storing up energy until it breaks traction, releases that energy, then it gains traction, stores it up again, and repeats. I would venture to bet that if you put a go pro under it and watch the suspension you get a wickedly violent show for youtube. You need to either limit how much energy it can store, or dampen the release of that energy to the point that it settles in. Imagine how well it could run if you were breaking traction so you could put all that energy used to load and unload suspension into go forward.

I'd really like to see you get this squared away and have a good clean run with it and see what she can do.
 

Hotrodtractor

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What do you suggest that is Super Street legal?

I must admit I am a bit perplexed by your suspension and chassis setup. I get why you stripped it down to a monoleaf and used the coil overs to actually control the spring rate and dampening forces of the suspension. I get the need for the additional bars to control the axle - BUT - the way you have it setup will actually bind your monoleaf setup since you have it on the shackle side of the spring - if you were to reverse the mounting so those bars go forward you would be able to better mimic a 4 link in geometry and setup, allow free motion of the suspension, put the bar in tension instead of compression, as well as many other setup improvements all by switching those bars around.


The geometry can be tweaked some to put bars on top or below the leaf spring running forward and traction bars are completely legal in super street. You are binding and causing a build up of energy because the bar is on the same side of the axle as the leaf spring shackle. The current setup gives you plenty of opportunity for energy storage in the suspension, but no viable way to maintain that level of energy storage so it must be released by unloading the suspension.

Good side on pictures of the suspension showing the leaf spring and current bar mounting points would go a long way to explaining exactly what is going on with a few quick notes made on a picture with some arrows.
 

vanderchevy18

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I'll get some pics. I don't know how it is though. The bar is solid and the spring from the axle forward is solid too. I stiffened it up with a second spring AND a piece of angle iron bracing. It's basically a super street legal 4 link at this point.
 

Chvyrkr

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Solid is relative to the force placed against it.

I hope you get it figured out though, you're already running some impressive times for an old dinosaur!
 

vanderchevy18

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So Jason you're saying that it would be better to have the traction bar go from the axle forward instead of behind? Why would that matter since the axle is now on top of the springs instead of below? Either way you're stopping the axle from twisting back at the top.

IMG_20140322_163607_571.jpg


IMG_20140322_163359_173.jpg


You can see that the brackets are already in place to run another set of bars if I need to.
IMG_20140415_211657_599.jpg
 
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vanderchevy18

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It was mentioned once that I should pus shocks back in the original shock mounts, but I should mount them horizontally to help soften some of the twisting shock load.
 

vanderchevy18

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And just for grins, here's a couple time slips to compare. :D

The fast time.
IMG_20140620_234001_264.jpg


Versus the good launch.
IMG_20140517_215932_525.jpg


And this time slip just because I hadn't posted it yet.
IMG_20140620_222643_319.jpg
 
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Vader's Fury

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I believe I am following what HRT is trying to explain.

In the attached picture I have circled the shackles in red and the bars that you added in blue.

The problem I believe(and I may be wrong, please correct me if I am) is that as the rear suspension compresses, the leaf spring becomes longer in length and the shackle end will move towards the rear of the truck. This is because the front mount for the leaf spring is rigid mounted and the arched shape of the spring.

The issue with your bars that you have added is that they stop this motion from happening. Since they are mounted on the rear of the axle, they stop the axle from moving towards the rear of the truck. This is causing a binding of the leaf spring since the axle can not move with the spring.

This is the energy that is getting locked into the rear suspension and causing the truck to unload and get loose on you when you are running fuel only.

If you flipped the bars to the front side of the axle, you would be doing the same thin, creating a "4 link" using the bar and the leaf spring, but it would not cause the binding that you are experiencing now.
 

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vanderchevy18

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I see what you're saying now. However, since the rear of the spring IS on a shackle, wouldn't it be able to move independently of the axle and therefore not cause it to bind? Also remember that this doesn't have normal suspension travel. It only has maybe 6" of travel at the most.
 
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