Pulling the Motor

jngreen · Feb 27, 2012

2000wa250 said:
Im aware of the front clip. Im ok with that. Just nervous of anything with the transmission since I haven't touched that.

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You will be fine, I think you are overthinking it a little. The manual transmission is not a big deal, if you leave the clutch bolted to the flywheel there will be no problems lining it all back up. You only need the allignment tool if you unbolt the clutch. Just do what Dieselboy says, slide the transmission back and pull the motor out of the front.

I would unbolt and tear the front of the truck apart first, it will really open everything up for you and make it look a lot easier. If you want more light and space in the engine compartment, you can pull the hood off too, although I don't really think its necessary.

2000wa250 · Feb 27, 2012

So can I remove the flywheel without removing the clutch from it? The reason I ask is the stand I am looking at bolts up to the engine and I believe this means I need to remove the flywheel.

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ford_trck · Feb 27, 2012

You have to remove the clutch before the flywheel

2000wa250 · Feb 27, 2012

That's what I thought. So I will need to clutch alignment tool

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PowerstrokeJunkie · Feb 27, 2012

I take a thick steel rod that will support the engine's weight and run it between the two lifting eyes, then chain from the center. Get the head of the cherry picker in as close to the bar to enable you to lift the engine up as much as possible before the engine hoist gets very near the wiper cowl. Almost all the time you forget about the wiring harness that runs across the wiper cowl below the hood seal, and something almost always snags the plastic and cracks it. Pull the little push pins out and get that out of the way. There is also a ground strap from the heater box area going to the rear of the passenger side head that most first-timers forget to remove, its a 10 or 13mm bolt head depending on the year.

I remove the hood, just to get it out of the way and it lets a BUNCH more light in

Dieselboy. · Feb 27, 2012

PowerstrokeJunkie said:
I take a thick steel rod that will support the engine's weight and run it between the two lifting eyes, then chain from the center. Get the head of the cherry picker in as close to the bar to enable you to lift the engine up as much as possible before the engine hoist gets very near the wiper cowl. Almost all the time you forget about the wiring harness that runs across the wiper cowl below the hood seal, and something almost always snags the plastic and cracks it. Pull the little push pins out and get that out of the way. There is also a ground strap from the heater box area going to the rear of the passenger side head that most first-timers forget to remove, its a 10 or 13mm bolt head depending on the year.

I remove the hood, just to get it out of the way and it lets a BUNCH more light in

Hahaha, been there done that. I never did replace it though....

I used to just unclip the actuators on the truck side of the hood and carefully wedge it higher up. Gives more clearance and then you dont have to worry about hood fitment issues.

Im not sure if it will fit on a stand safely with the clutch still attached. You could essentially get longer bolts and cut some pipe spacers. But thats risky. Id just pick up an alignment tool and once you have it out on the hoist, pull it off before you attach it to the stand. Buy at least a 1200lb engine stand. With 4 wheels !!! NOT 3 !!

2000wa250 · Feb 27, 2012

The one im looking at is rated for 2000 lbs. 4 wheels.

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TyCorr · Feb 28, 2012

2000wa250 said:
The one im looking at is rated for 2000 lbs. 4 wheels.

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I got one with 4 wheels and its rated for 2k lbs.

Viking · Apr 4, 2012

How did it go? I am looking into taking mine out and rebuilding it. Just need to buy a garage though.

2000wa250 · Apr 4, 2012

Havent done it yet. Still gathering parts. Not sure if I'm going to end up pulling the engine. I want to, but just not sure if the time is there.

TyCorr · Apr 4, 2012

2000wa250 said:
Havent done it yet. Still gathering parts. Not sure if I'm going to end up pulling the engine. I want to, but just not sure if the time is there.

I.was.going.to pull mine.to.fix.an oil leak. Now.Im pulling.it.and the cyl will.get.honed and new.rings put.on the pistons. All new.gaskets and support mods for big injectors. Oh and Ill still paint it.too! LOL

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Apr 4, 2012

sub'd. going to do an oil pan on my truck this summer hopefully if things go as planned.

TyCorr · Apr 5, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
sub'd. going to do an oil pan on my truck this summer hopefully if things go as planned.

Yea, you cant just do an oilpan..gotta pull the.motor to.do.it.right. Might as well___ while.its out.

TheSmokinStroke2002 · Apr 5, 2012

TyCorr said:
Yea, you cant just do an oilpan..gotta pull the.motor to.do.it.right. Might as well___ while.its out.

Theoretically if it doesn't start leaking for a while I want to wait until I'm out of college and find a forged motor to put in it or do a 12v swap.

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TyCorr · Apr 5, 2012

TheSmokinStroke2002 said:
Theoretically if it doesn't start leaking for a while I want to wait until I'm out of college and find a forged motor to put in it or do a 12v swap.

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Hell yeah! FRM...