Random Stalling

nwpastroker

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Ever since I put the truck back on the road it has had a slight miss at times going down the road, but I wrote it out as air in high pressure oil as i switched out hpop. Last night it missed and shut off. Wouldnt start back up, tach was moving, wts was working, would roll but no start. Today after work, i borrowed a Snap on Versus, and was running a live data program and hit the key to verify IPR and such. It fired right up like normal. Ran a few tests and everything was fine. Shut it down, then it wouldnt start again, Injection pressure is hitting 2200 cranking. While idling it idles around 460psi, and 2.6pw? seems fairly long for idle. Truck is a e99 7.3 6 speed , IPR isnt very old, maybe 10k, icp is brand new. Does this sound like a cam sensor? Sometimes when it starts it barely makes it, takes a while to get up to idle, while other times it is there as soon as you hit the key.
Thanks in advance guys
 

Jeffreyt

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Is there any smoke while cranking? My first thought is CPS, and it is cheap. If its not it then you'll have a spare.

I've also seen various sensors go bad where the VREF would ground out and wouldn't allow a start. Try unplugging one at a time and crank to see what happens. Last time on a friends truck it was the EBP sensor.
 

907DAVE

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You will usually loose communication on these pcm's if you have a shorted VRef signal, but he is able to watch pids while its happening.
 

TARM

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Maybe I missed it but have you out it on a scanner yet? That would be the first thing I did. With that said...

I have seen many brand new ICP be bad especially if they are aftermarkets and not OEM Ford/IH.

Did you check the lock nut on the IPR valve. If its loose the idle will get screwy and start to stall etc.. I found mine in the valley one time and it was stalling at stops etc..
Loose connects as well.

The other can be a shorted or bad connection between IDM and injectors. You can pull the harness plug from the IDM and ohm out all the connections. That will confirm it either way for the whole harness.

The CPS is always a possibility with this kinds of issues. Many times they cause a stall but on mine it caused a miss and intermittent loss of power etc.. Worse when it was wet from rain.
 

TARM

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That is what I had figured when I saw the PW., I figured if Dave did not make a comment it must be splits.
 

nwpastroker

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They are splits for now. Ebp sensor and tube are new via motorcraft. ICP and pigtail new from motorcraft as well. Ipr nut is tight. Buzz test passed and sounded fairly similar in all 8 holes. Tach jumped consistently with each "buzz". Is their a way to ohm out ipr? Should it have a certain voltage with koeo? Ill slap a new CPs in for now. What the latest and greatest for a soon to be fairly modded truck?
Thanks guys
 

neverkickn

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Just get one from ford or international. They are grey and IMO they work fine. I have a black one and a grey one and they both run, buzz the truck the same.
 

TARM

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I really like the delphi CPS black it has the larger magnetic and not lump of plastic between it and the gear. But they do cost more with a online coupon you can pick them up from Advanced auto for about $45 with shipping. What I like is they fix contribution test outputs and seem to be more responsive. But as for just normal engine running most are fine with greys. I just like knowing the testing is reporting back accurately and timing is correct of the injection. Some have more issues with the grey than others. My guess is it has to do with slight changes in clearance as it has a weaker magnet
 

nwpastroker

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I appreciate everyones replies and ideas. I didnt have these problems before i took the truck off the road for winter in november. I am going to go through everything that I did over the winter in hopes that it may give more insite. I appologise in advance for the long post.

I removed the factory fuel system and installed an A1000 system with the only thing factory remaining is the sending unit.
I also installed a s468 turbo kit, uppipes mount and all.
I installed a srp1.1 with 5k miles with an IPR with the same. (these parts sat for 5 months on a non running engine, which is leaning me to IPR)
Today I changed out the cam sensor with one from ford.(grey w/purple ring)
I installed an aeroforce scanguage i had laying around to monitor HPO
I ran a buzz test, sounded and reported fine
I started the truck, idle was smoother, started easier, and seemed to be running fine.
Took it on a test drive once warm, about 3 miles in it missed once while cruising in 4th gear around 40-45 mph with no significant load.
I then turned around and drove home, never missed again, but I didnt want to have to find someone to tow me home again.
I have another new IPR, but hate to use it if I cant verify it is the problem.
Could it be tuning related now that I have a much greater hpop that could be running too much oil vs the stock( which is what the truck is tuned for)?
All of my codes are related to the missing intake manifold heater or the wastegate.
What do you think guys?
Thanks again! Love how this site is so helpful!
 

JD3020

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I really like the delphi CPS black it has the larger magnetic and not lump of plastic between it and the gear. But they do cost more with a online coupon you can pick them up from Advanced auto for about $45 with shipping. What I like is they fix contribution test outputs and seem to be more responsive. But as for just normal engine running most are fine with greys. I just like knowing the testing is reporting back accurately and timing is correct of the injection. Some have more issues with the grey than others. My guess is it has to do with slight changes in clearance as it has a weaker magnet

So you like the black Delphi's? I've got 2 grey CPS's that seem to be alright, but been thinking about getting a black one to see if it helps smooth my idle out any.
 

TARM

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NWPAStrorker,

I think it was the CPS IMO as thats the one thing you changed that would fix that situation.


JD3020,

Yes A guy a year back I guess maybe 1.5yrs now. HE did very in depth testing. He bought all kinds of CPS including a couple of the original black ones. 5 or 6 in total I think. All the popular ones I know for sure. He ran the testing with them and details all variations. HE also checked magnetic strength in there stock form. Then he disassembled all of them noting all the differences.

HE found two with magnets as powerful as the original black. He also noted the ones that had thick plastic covering the magnet face. There were two that worked as well as the original. The one of them ended up causing some weird electric issue in some trucks. If you put on the intermittent wiper it died or something weird like that. The deplhi was as strong and everyone I know that has gone to it has worked great. Where they were getting some higher variations on in the contrab testing they went way down into normal levels so no more of the typical grey failure stuff.

Now they are about 2x what you can get a grey for from ford. I only know ADvacned auto carries them and you have to actually search for the Delphi name or it will not come up. Its always a order item for store so order it shipped to your house. Get a online coupon and it cuts about |$15 off/ I think my total cost with shipping was around $42-45.

For me I will gladly pay the price to get my 1 mpg back the normal idle( not necessarily quieter) and to know my fuel system is being accurately timed vs the greys. I also think I have a bit better throttle response off the line but that is subjective so I discount it.
 

TARM

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I saved it on a old laptop but the screen started to go and the keyboard was missing letters so I finally upgraded. I still have it but need to off load the data. I think the guy may have been over on Ford trucks and there he linked to more details on his own web page. I will see if I can find it.

It might have been over on TDS though.

Best way might be to start searching using delphi CPS. I know detail testing was doing of the black grey and purple. Let me see what I can find.

A real simple test for anyone to do is test magnet strength from the pick up end. Try picking up different bolt sizes with the various CPS. The ones with the strongest magnetic force will likely be the best as long as the electronics and spacing it good. Try a delphi and compare it to a grey. Haven't the official greys now had like 3 revisions to the grey one. Like one a year LOL. I think its actually blue in color now right?
 
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