Reman Alternator

goindeafonmtx · Apr 14, 2016

I got tired of replacing cheap parts store alternators every two years. So I put a 210 amp alternator off of a OBS ambulance package on my 2003. Dual rectifiers, heavy duty construction, made by Mitsubishi. The thing is huge.

The bolt pattern is the same. But I had to significantly clearance the bracket. I used an angle grinder and about 5 minutes of my time. The plug on the back must be changed to the OBS plug. The factory belt was not long enough, so I had to get a longer belt. The main power wire was replaced with 2/0 welding cable with an inline 300 amp fuse. It is necessary to add a dedicated ground wire from the alternator to the battery in which I used 4 gauge welding cable.

I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

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cbf9703 · Apr 14, 2016

goindeafonmtx said:
I got tired of replacing cheap parts store alternators every two years. So I put a 210 amp alternator off of a OBS ambulance package on my 2003. Dual rectifiers, heavy duty construction, made by Mitsubishi. The thing is huge.

The bolt pattern is the same. But I had to significantly clearance the bracket. I used an angle grinder and about 5 minutes of my time. The plug on the back must be changed to the OBS plug. The factory belt was not long enough, so I had to get a longer belt. The main power wire was replaced with 2/0 welding cable with an inline 300 amp fuse. It is necessary to add a dedicated ground wire from the alternator to the battery in which I used 4 gauge welding cable.

I can post pictures if anyone is interested.

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I'm curious how the set up turned out and looks.

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TyCorr · Apr 14, 2016

Why does it "have" to have a ground to the battery and not just the frame rail?

Mine are both hd and both grounded to the frame.

goindeafonmtx · Apr 14, 2016

TyCorr said:
Why does it "have" to have a ground to the battery and not just the frame rail?

Mine are both hd and both grounded to the frame.

Doesn't "have" to. However I see no reason not to.

I'll post up some pictures.

TyCorr · Apr 14, 2016

Oh, you said it was necessary to add one to the battery at -. I just wondered what you meant.

I have single ott cable for alt grounds. My pos battery cabkes are 2/0 cable, cadmium tinned cast copper hydraulic crimp on terminals. Shrink wrap. Soldered the end grains...had them made at the john deere dealer. Very nice.

Jomax · Apr 15, 2016

Oriellys has a sweet battery cable upgrade for the positive for like 87bucks. Worth every penny

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bruce · Apr 15, 2016

I ran the autozone one for like 5 years until I sold it. They're all junk, might as well get one with a decent warranty. pretty much the easiest thing under the hood to replace.

Arisley · Apr 15, 2016

Jomax said:
Oriellys has a sweet battery cable upgrade for the positive for like 87bucks. Worth every penny

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You have to find somebody that knows what those books are for that are behind them though. Special order. I have the same cable, it was a perfect fit.

goindeafonmtx · Apr 15, 2016

It is tight between the rear positive stud to the CAC pipe. The stud cover is imperative. Got mine from delcity.com. My CAC blew off the first time out with it and the fuse blew. I was my fault because I was a wuss and didn't tighten the clamps. I have since added a clamp so no more pipes blowing off. It's also close to the upper radiator hose, but doesn't touch. If you were to use the factory through the belt hose, there would be no worries.

The welding cable was free.
The lugs were ~$10
Fuse and holder were $10
The longer mounting bolts were free.
Napa belt was ~$40. Part# 081223
Alternator was $210. Motorcraft part# GL360

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Jomax · Apr 15, 2016

Arisley said:
You have to find somebody that knows what those books are for that are behind them though. Special order. I have the same cable, it was a perfect fit.

Luckily quite a few local stores keep them on hands in AZ.

But you're right, no one there knows they exist. The told me to go look in the isle next to the batteries with those small cables LOL. Told them it wouldn't fit there

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Jomax · Apr 15, 2016

goindeafonmtx said:
It is tight between the rear positive stud to the CAC pipe. The stud cover is imperative. Got mine from delcity.com. My CAC blew off the first time out with it and the fuse blew. I was my fault because I was a wuss and didn't tighten the clamps. I have since added a clamp so no more pipes blowing off. It's also close to the upper radiator hose, but doesn't touch. If you were to use the factory through the belt hose, there would be no worries.

The welding cable was free.
The lugs were ~$10
Fuse and holder were $10
The longer mounting bolts were free.
Napa belt was ~$40. Part# 081223
Alternator was $210. Motorcraft part# GL360

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Buddy is running one. Says it hits 15volts sometimes. Doesn't that kill things?

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goindeafonmtx · Apr 15, 2016

I've seen it get that high. 14.4 is the highest. It's the amps is what makes it powerful. The voltage is controlled by the internal regulator.

But that is not why I put this alternator on. It's the reliability the alternator promises. I just need the truck to work.

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