Replacing Cab Mounts

jmsmith76 · Jun 6, 2012

Need to retain the steel bushing/sleeves if possible. Otherwise you'll have to buy a new set which is big money, or fab up your own.

Hey Denver, I wish mine was that smooth. We started with the worst one which was the passenger side middle mount and it was a PITA. We have been using the jack and chain puller method and at first we broke the nut off the bottom sleeve, pulled the factory welds right out. Unfortunately don't have a picture of that. Then welded the nut back on and the next time, the bottom sleeve broke off inside the top sleeve. But hey, we got it out so I didn't care. The other side middle mount was easy. Last mount I have left is the one above the tank. Going to try and hammer it down from the top before I move the tank out of the way. It was too late last night to try any hammering so I'm gonna have to try it this afternoon after work. Having a buddy helping me with most of this work has been a big help.

Here's a picture of the broke sleeve:

And a picture of our pulling method:

jmsmith76 · Jun 6, 2012

Also, I'll mention that the rear on the passenger side came out real easy, but we had to do some adjusting to get the jack point right. Ended up putting the jack at the bend in the frame right there by that mount and used a 4x4 and a smaller 2x4 to compensate for the angle and have somewhat of a "flat" jack point, if that makes sense. Seemed to work pretty well.

And for those of you who break or cut the sleeves out, here's the cost of a new set:

CLICK HERE

Or if you just break the bottom half of the sleeve, you can buy it for cheaper:

CLICK HERE

Diesel_Brad · Jun 6, 2012

SWEET. Thanks for the Link

jmsmith76 · Jun 6, 2012

No problem. Also, for anyone doing this I would recommend grinding off the lip on the bottom sleeve that holds the sleeves together and makes this whole ordeal a pita. BTW, I got the rear driver side mount off without touching the fuel tank. Put a long bolt, or piece of thread rod with nut on tip, in the bushing from the top, thread it in, fill up the bushing with pb blaster. wait 5-10 minutes. Hammer it down with a sledge hammer until the lower sleeve falls out. A smaller mallet may work, but I went for overkill. Haha

jmsmith76 · Jun 7, 2012

Anybody got any suggestions on getting the cab to line up? The driver side rear had three 1/8" shims, passenger side had one. I put all those back in and the driver side sat about 11/16" high after torquing down. Pulled all the shims out on the driver side and now it's sitting around 1/2" high. Passenger side is almost perfect, maybe like 1/8" high. Anybody know if the bushings will "settle" after driving for a bit? Or am I looking at shimming the whole body and bed until things line up properly?

Also, should probably mention that I have a drum with 45 gallons of used motor oil on the driver side of the bed, and a drum with 30 gallons on the passenger side of the bed. Not sure how much difference that'd make...

Denver · Jun 7, 2012

Sounds like you used poly bushings. I used poly bushings the first time and had what you are describing. I tried shaving them down but ended up buying OEM bushings at Ford and installed those and everything lined right up.

jmsmith76 · Jun 7, 2012

I like the poly bushings... I'd just prefer everything to line up. Lol. Really would dislike having to replace the bushings all over again even though it'd be way easier the second time around since everything is fresh and not rusty. Any clue how much a set of Ford bushings run?

Guess I'll put in a call to energy suspension tomorrow and see what they recommend