Responsive Turbo/compounds Thoughts

Vader's Fury

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That sounds great! No rush from my end though. I dont get the turbo till early next week and I will be leaving on friday evening for a 10 day vacation in cali.

I hope to have the turbo mounted by then but that depends on if I can get all the other work I need to done by then.

Anyone know what the connection to the turbo is called? LIke t-3, t-4 ect. I know it is not either of those but have not been able to find anything to tell me what will def fit it.
 

Hotrodtractor

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Anyone know what the connection to the turbo is called? LIke t-3, t-4 ect. I know it is not either of those but have not been able to find anything to tell me what will def fit it.

"Duramax flange" LOL Its just a pair of three bolt flanges - I'm not sure there is a "standard" call out for them like a standard turbo mount setup would have.

 

907DAVE

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Good news!

Looks like he circuit in question is a 12v PWM signal.

Took me a bit of time to get the PCM to do anything with it as the truck has no EBP solenoid and the EBP sensor is not connected to anything. First off the PCM needs to see 2.5-12 ohms of resistance on that circuit during the first key cycle to even attempt to do anything with it, and no a RadioShack resistor will not work.:)

I took an old 6.0 IPR and stuck it in line to get things rolling. The PCM was happy with its 6 ohms and let me continue.

20120613-1127-1.jpg


So, can anyone verify the resistance across the D-Max VGT solenoid?

In the meantime I will begin to re-scale and design a program that should get this rolling.
 

bad12jr

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That's suprising that it's a 12v pwm signal. Ill see if I can check my buddies truck.

Sent from my x2 somewhere
 

907DAVE

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The program said it was PWM, but i wanted to verify that it was 12V. I want to see this work, baaaaad!
 

bad12jr

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Looks like it to me. I couldn't get that pic to load on tapatalk earlier. I'll have my AE friday so I'll try and datalog my obs stocker bp and boost. It spools decent but could do better. The tuning for the ad's has a little much fuel down low on a couple tunes and chokes it down for a second.

The 12v pwm kinda throws a loop into the controller. Ill see if I can find what voltages the I/O's can handle.
 

bad12jr

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http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560

If I understand right your just gonna wire the EBP sensor to the VNT accuator. It would be awesome if it could regulate through the controller. The software for the controller would be easy to write with a basic table for x=y to just base it off that one sensor but I don't believe the drivabilty would be that good comparably unless you could really tighten it up down low with a few other equations.

I've been trying to read up on the software as much as I can during downtime at work.
 

Hotrodtractor

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Arduinos would work for this. We use them for prototyping R&D projects at work all the time. We've got one right now generating 8 PWM signals right now - or at least I hope it still is when I get into work in the morning. LOL

The stock DMax VGT actuator is a 3 wire setup - so since I haven't looked it up yet, I would say its most likely a power, ground, and a PWM signal for activation. The resistance across one pin set is 1.7 Kohms and the other pin set is 3.02??? Mohms. that was the best I could get tonight when I was in the shop - too many other things going on to dig into it further.

And since I was asked in PM about understanding a bit more about how the Dmax controls the vanes of the turbo - here is a vane position table based on fuel quantity and RPM (bone stock LBZ tune):
 

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  • Vane Position based on Fuel.JPG
    Vane Position based on Fuel.JPG
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907DAVE

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Just pulled up the diagram for an '06 and it looks like the vane position sensor is the 3 wire connector, but there looks to be a 2 wire connection directly below the oil feed line(?) that controls the solenoid. Hmmm?
 

907DAVE

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If I understand right your just gonna wire the EBP sensor to the VNT accuator. It would be awesome if it could regulate through the controller.

Not the sensor, the solenoid.

It would be really awesome if the factory PCM could handle this task (which I believe it can), but always good to know there are other options.

My only concern with that particular controller is the amperage it can handle. I doubt .040 amps is enough to run that VGT solenoid, but I cannot tell you for sure as I don't have one in front of me to test.
 

Hotrodtractor

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Not the sensor, the solenoid.

It would be really awesome if the factory PCM could handle this task (which I believe it can), but always good to know there are other options.

My only concern with that particular controller is the amperage it can handle. I doubt .040 amps is enough to run that VGT solenoid, but I cannot tell you for sure as I don't have one in front of me to test.

Yeah, but a PWM driver circuit is like all of $5 to build/buy.... my electrical counterpart at work is building a new board right now for a product we are developing with 8 high speed PWM circuits on it.

Speaking of that - anyone know the frequency that the EBPV PWM signal operates at - as well as what frequency the DMax VGT setup is intended to operate at? Just something I don't want anyone to over look.
 

Big Bore

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Speaking of that - anyone know the frequency that the EBPV PWM signal operates at - as well as what frequency the DMax VGT setup is intended to operate at? Just something I don't want anyone to over look.

Isn't that going to vary within a specified range? Or do i need more coffee?

Good morning smart people, thanks for playing in the thread. LOL
 

Hotrodtractor

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Isn't that going to vary within a specified range? Or do i need more coffee?

You're going to need to start brewing a whole pot. :poke:


PWM signals can operate at any given frequency - you can adjust the amount of on or off time at any frequency and that controls the duty cycle - as the frequency goes up the more "smooth" and seamless the signal will look.

Let me play Chucky for a moment and use some extreme examples - if I have a 1 hertz signal (once per second) and a 50% duty cycle running 12vdc - it would be very obvious to your eyes that the signal is switching on and off - half the time its on full bore, then half the time its 100% off. If I leave the duty cycle alone and increase the frequency to say 20 Mhz (20 million cycles per second) - you wouldn't notice anything goofy at all with your eyes - in fact if you threw a voltmeter on it you should get about 6vdc.
 

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