Riff Raff oil pan gasket

[MossBack]

Thats definitely why it leaked







Completely agree with this. I have never once had an oil pan leak after replacing one with an oem replacement and the motor raft 7.3 rtv

Since this post I have done 3 more oil pan re-seals and have only used ford grey. And I have since tossed the black rtv and use the grey for everything!

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

Thanks Ron, just about ready to hit the buy button on this stuff. One question, do you think two 24 oz spray bottles of the Rust Bullet Metal Blast is enough to do the under body of the Excursion? I'm thinking of going with the gallon container/sprayer.

i used every bit of 2 bottles to do the under side of my truck...

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

Since this post I have done 3 more oil pan re-seals and have only used ford grey. And I have since tossed the black rtv and use the grey for everything!

some people do not realize that there is 2 different kinds of the ford grey death...one kind for the oil pan..then another kind for every thing else...id post up part#'s but both tubes are at the shop where im putting the motor together...

 

[OBS-Addiction97]

Ron, I think the part numbers are T30 and T31. I thought there was one for the intake plenums and then the other one was used for everything else including oil pans.

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

Ron, I think the part numbers are T30 and T31. I thought there was one for the intake plenums and then the other one was used for everything else including oil pans.

my bad..just re read my manual and the plenums take one kind and the rest of the motor takes the other..i don't have the tubes in front of me to tell witch is witch...my book only gives me part# not the type...my question with people having trouble getting there pans to seal is how many people know there is two types??most of us change our plenums first so the parts counter hands us this big tube of grey death to swap out the plenums...latter on we have a oil pan leak..how many just grab that same tube and try to seal the oil pan with it??also..how many know that there is an expiration date on this grey death?? IH and ford use this grey death and it last for thousands of miles but you listen to some of these people and it only last a few weeks..

 

[White Buffalo]

if i can do this tarm...there is no doubt you can handle it...very simple to do with very little prep work...how long will it last?? i hope a long time..i just sprayed a couple weeks ago..this stuff goes right over surface rust.. you need to remove all loose paint and flaky rust..i used a needle gun to take off the flaky stuff.. sanded the heavy rusted parts... degrees every thing with simple green or what ever...dry it good...i used there stuff called mettle blast..its an acid that neutralizes the rust..it also acts like etching primer..spray it on wait 20-30 minutes and wipe it off or rinse away..if you rinse make sure its very dry before you start spraying..we have HVLP set up at work..even though we have a paint booth we also have a outside lift with a cat walk..it was a nice weekend so we used that.. it made life easy..the rust bullet is silver kinda like the dull side of aluminum foil...put on 3 coats of rust bullet letting it get sticky without sticking to your finger between coats..8ml thick if i remember right..after doing the under side i decided not to go black under there..you could see it get brighter as you painted the silver under there..i thought if i broke at night i might be able to see much better with a flashlight bouncing off all that silver...so i taped off my spring hangers and U bolts and shot the out side of the frame rail with black shell with 3 coats..its a high gloss black...then sprayed 3 coats of clear shell over the rest of the silver...they also have green,red,orange,blue,black, white,purple yellow and clear shell... ColorShell coatings are high visibility, UV resistant rust inhibitive that wont crack.peal,chip if applied right..like the rust bullet the shell is also self leveling..wont show brush marks if done by hand....hard to make it run if sprayed..after a week i smacked my frame with a hammer a few times..did not beat it.. just a few good smacks and didnt hurt this stuff a bit...it is also resistant against all kinds of salts and acids...i bought this kit http://www.rustbullet.com/rust-bullet-undercarriage-truck-kit.html there was plenty for my super cab long bed..it also comes with the mettle blast and solvents for cleaning.. there are other kits as well.. http://www.rustbullet.com/products/automotive.html remember if you want to spray the rust bullet get the automotive..its pre mixed for spraying..if you want to brush it on get the stranded....(the bald head in one picture is not mine lol)

Thanks Ron, just ordered some to try on the Excursion to help battle the nasty effects of the chlorides....:redspotdance:

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

Thanks Ron, just ordered some to try on the Excursion to help battle the nasty effects of the chlorides....:redspotdance:

glad to share any info i can...shoot me a PM or post back..let me know what you think..i just got my blue color shell today.be doing my oil pan and valve covers this weekend..any luck at all my motor goes in next weekend,,,

 

[White Buffalo]

This is sure gonna take me a while, but well worth the results. I did a test area on the worst spot on my Excursion. Brush & sanded the heavy spots then sprayed on the Metal Blast (which worked great) to prep the surface. Brushed on two coast of the Rust Bullet Automotive and 1 coat of the black top coat. The rust bullet automotive has some great adhesion properties. I put a drop on the countertop in the garage and after it dried it did not want to chip or break off. This should work very well for me and our salty winter roads. I'm just gonna have to do one area at a time until it's finished.

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

cleaning the rust takes the longest,,but yes it is strong and it has a smooth hard slippery feel to it...should be very easy to hose the salt and grime off of her... glad you like it...

 

[DZL JIM]

...my question with people having trouble getting there pans to seal is how many people know there is two types??most of us change our plenums first so the parts counter hands us this big tube of grey death to swap out the plenums...latter on we have a oil pan leak..how many just grab that same tube and try to seal the oil pan with it??also..how many know that there is an expiration date on this grey death?? IH and ford use this grey death and it last for thousands of miles but you listen to some of these people and it only last a few weeks..

My guess would be the stuff for the intakes is stronger than that for the pan.
So there really can't be any harm in using either for the pan, but you could blow the seal on the intakes if you use the weaker gray.
Sound right?

And it doesn't last long enough in our shop to go bad, it seems we can't keep enough of it in hand.

 

[Ron's Power Stroke]

.i still have a half a tube from 4 years ago lol..maybe because it is mostly air and it needs to hold air psi that stuff for the intake cant be used on the pan because of a chemical reaction with so much oil?? or with such a large pan and the block flexing the intake stuff is too hard and break the bond ???.i really don't know but there are 2 types for a reason....

 

[gnxtc2]

some people do not realize that there is 2 different kinds of the ford grey death...one kind for the oil pan..then another kind for every thing else...id post up part#'s but both tubes are at the shop where im putting the motor together...

Ron, I think the part numbers are T30 and T31. I thought there was one for the intake plenums and then the other one was used for everything else including oil pans.

When my intakes were leaking, I went to Int'l and asked for the gray sealant for the intakes. The parts guy said that this is only one gray sealant and it's used all over.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[7.3-6.0-6.4]

Finally installed the gasket really nice quality thick gaskets and it use stud very nice