rotor removal

[907DAVE]

Did you clean the mating surfaces of the rotor/ hub? Go back and check the torque on the lug nuts to make sure they are even. They can be turned as an assembly if needed.

Did the caliper push back hard?

Most common issue on older brake systems is dragging calipers after they are returned to a fully released position. All the junk in the brake system settles in the bores and sticks the piston when they are pushed back into it. Do your self a favor a replace both at the same time if you find this is your issue.

 

[rpm-inc]

No caliper didnt push back hard. Let off the brakes and it straightens out again.

EDIT-If you mean pushing the pistons back into their bores, no, they went in about normal. Both sides, equal resistance. And if a caliper was hanging, wouldn't it pull all the time? If I let off the brakes, it starts going straight again.

Been thinking about putting my 05 axles in this truck. So don't want to keep dumping money in this. But I do need to drive it for a while before (if) I do that. Can't have it how it is, though.

How strong can I make this front ttb dana 50. How low can I make it? Thinking about putting my 05 axles in this truck and the obs axles in my van. I don't care so much how the van will ride.

 

[907DAVE]

The right caliper is your issue. Its not that the left is applying too much or dragging, its the right that not pushing enough.

An obvious telltale would be a piston that is hard to move, but its not always that easy.

 

[Tom S]

I do not think there is an issue with the Dana 50 TTB being strong enough but rather the issue is how it does not hold alignment, wears out parts, etc.

 

[Charles]

I couldn't tell in the pictures, but on many of the 31 spline warn stuff for these types of applications the hub will come with a small screw in the face, the lip of which will hold the hub fully assembled for you. Tighten that down, or find another one and leave it in place. For some reason everyone likes to take that out and throw it away, leaving the hub to fall into multiple pieces everytime the cap is removed.

Leaving that screw in place will make life with warn hubs super simple in comparison.

 

[rpm-inc]

Yep there is a screw holding the inner part to the aluminum body. I'll get some more pics when I feel like messing with this again.

 

[rpm-inc]

Back on this today. Rotors are cut, guy at carquest said they were definitely warped a little. New calipers in the front. Been reading about gravity bleeding. So started at the right rear. Nothing. Small pumps of the pedal for quite a while and I would get a little. Gave up on that one and tried the other ones. They all dripped very fast and got new fluid going to them, topping off the master cylinder when needed.

So back to the right rear. Disconnected the line at the tee on the axle. New clean fluid dripping hard. Disconnected the line at the wheel cylinder an inch from the bleeder. Dripping new clean fluid. So now what? New wheel cylinder?

Edit-I don't think the bleeder is clogged. It is so loose it should be dripping at the threads.

 

[ford_trck]

The hoses will collapse internally over time.

 

[rpm-inc]

There is no hoses in the rear. Its all hard line. And the hard line at the wheel cylinder is dripping fluid when disconnected. But nothing coming out of the bleeder.

 

[rpm-inc]

Should say no hoses after where fluid is actually coming out. There is a hose at the tee for the axle to go up and down.

 

[907DAVE]

Pull the bleeders and try and blow through them, there is not much pressure behind them.

 

[Tom S]

I have seen cloged bleeders before.

On a side note it is really easy to build a home version pressure bleeder from a simple home depot sprayer. I have one that I just used the other day and it worked great. I can look for directions if you want.

 

[rpm-inc]

Bleeder was indeed clogged. After that, they bled fine, or so I thought. Got it back together, pulsating is gone, still pulls to the left and soft pedal. I gave up and took it to the shop down the street. Too hot and I have too much other stuff to do.

Anyways, 50 for them to rebleed them and no change. Says the master is leaking internally, and one of the front hoses may be collapsed. This thing stopped fine before I tore this thing apart. What do you think? I need this thing on Monday, and wont have any more time for it until after summer.

 

[907DAVE]

Sounds like there is still air in the system. Did you try a pressure bleed? Some time a gravity is not enough to force the air out of the system.

 

[rpm-inc]

The brake/tire shop rebled them. I am sure they didn't gravity bleed it.

 

[rpm-inc]

Ok, pulled a favor at a buddy's shop. Was gonna have him replace the hoses and master. Parts were only 50. He took it apart and looked at it and said the pads just need to wear in better. One of the left pads is not making full contact yet. He said once they wear in they will be fine. And I did notice it not pulling as much when I brought it over there. Makes sense to me. These were the napa premium pads, for what its worth.

So I guess I replaced the calipers for no reason, but I don't care. It's done.