Runs good, sputters then shuts off. IDM issue?

cabloom7.3

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My truck (2000 7.3) started weird the last 2 times a ran it. I took it to the store and it started cutting out real bad and shut off. I started it back and it was cutting out real bad and i limped it to a parking spot. I ran the codes and got codes reading that all 4 even injectors werent firing right, eventually everything cleared up then it would cut out again and stumble and the IDM code would show up again. We tried a new IDM and it started out stumbling the same as the old one then it cleared up. Everything was good, no codes then all the sudden i would wiggle the IDM and it would start cutting out/bucking again. SOmetimes it would do it on its own sometimes it wouldnt. The plug on the main harness looks in good shape though. Could it be a ground issue? Anyone had this experience before? Thanks for the input.
 

cabloom7.3

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Would it cause the truck to run good one second then the next second run like crap? I was thinking if it was that then it would just stay bad and run like crap all the time after it came loose. IF its worth trying i will tare it off tomorrow and take a look.
 

cabloom7.3

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Yea i knew about the mod i just didnt think that these symptoms would be it but im going to take the valve cover off tomorrow to see.
 

JoeDaddy

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It may not be loose either. If you have a spare UVCH try it with a couple bolts to hold it on b4 reinstalling the cover. The gaskets sometimes fail intermittently.
 

yzrmbsg

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Would it cause the truck to run good one second then the next second run like crap? I was thinking if it was that then it would just stay bad and run like crap all the time after it came loose. IF its worth trying i will tare it off tomorrow and take a look.

Yes. The vibration of the motor could be just enough to be moving the connector from making contact. It doesn't take much. It's worth a shot and only costs $.50
 

cabloom7.3

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Yes tomorrow i will finish taking the vc off and hope that thats the issue. I am also going to run some tests on the IDM harness and see what that comes u with. After that im done messing and its going to have to go to the dealership :(
 

JoeDaddy

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I would avoid the dealer. They will no doubt find the problem but only after replacing everything. Where do you live?
 

Arisley

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What Joe said. Most dealers will tell you it needed UVCH, valve cover gaskets and an IDM.


Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.
 

cabloom7.3

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Well the uvch was on and on pretty tight and all the wires looked to be in pretty good shape. The terminals seem to look fine as well. But after trying to put the plug back on a snapped the piece that connects to the other side of the harness. It looks like im going to have to put a whole new gasket on because i broke the little clip. Im just frustrated with the truck and dont know what to do next. I hate the fact of taking it to Ford but i need to get this fixed. And i live in Curwensville, PA
 

neverkickn

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You said you could simulate the problem by wiggling the idm. I don't see how you could have wiggled the harness enough to move the engine harness at the valve covers. I guess it is possible though since the even bank is driver side. Just for kicks, have you inspected the idm harness and plug for damage? Might be worth disconnecting the harness at the engine and ohming it from the idm plug to the engine harness plug.
 

cabloom7.3

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The harness looks good to me but it may be worth ohming from plug to plug if I could find somewhere that has the diagram for the main harnessy. Also what setting should I put my volt meter on to test the plugs? Thanks
 

neverkickn

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Here are a couple of diagrams for you. I would use the 200 ohm range. I don't know what reading you should see, but obviously if it is open then you will know. For reference, I think that the whole injector circuit from the idm plug and back should be under 3 ohms.
 

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  • 7.3L-BasicWiring Diagram.pdf
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  • idm pinout.pdf
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cabloom7.3

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Thanks for the links. The fist one is a bit confusing since im not sure what numbers there referring to on the main harness if that makes sense. And the second link is what i tried today. You would just check for instance cylinder #2 the 22 pin and the 23 pin and should get 2.9-3.6? Cause if so i got .5 on a couple and 0 for one. Maybe im doing something wrong. Bear with me, i dont like electronics. lol
 

neverkickn

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I just looked back at the first attachment and there isn't a diagram that shows what pin is what on the actual plug so that one is kinda useless without more info.If you got .5 ohms on a circuit then that is proof positive that there is something wrong there. Since you have to replace the UVCH due to the broken clip, I would just throw it on and see if your problem persists. If it does, then you need to keep looking. If it doesen't, then good deal.

Be sure to use motorcraft replacements as there is a quality difference between the parts store junk and the dealer part.
 

cabloom7.3

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Does motorcraft sell just the replacement harness or is it best to get the harness with the gasket and all?
 

cabloom7.3

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Im gona to put a new harness on tomorrow or the next day. I tested the IDM harness again and got 0 for all of them meaning that they are all ok??
 

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