S364.5 on 7.3

[ja_cain]

Thank you for the kind words on the truck. There are an awful lot of nice trucks out there, but this one still gets it done I guess.




Not the same Krause, have not touched a 6L yet that I can remember? Here is the build thread in case you fancy taking a read.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60949

I am running 3.73 with 35inch tires (a metric equivalent), 18" rims.

So just to confirm; it sounds like the exhaust housings are interchangeable, that is great news! Are they identical? I dont wan to re-use exhuast housing if there was some small revision by BW for the SXE exhaust housing that is part of the efficiency increase.

Oh and yes it is a .91 housing currently

The first page had me a hello. Lol! That mount looks awesome! I have all the tools and skills to do that, but time is just not available yet. How did you cut the turbo flange openings? They look really nice. I would love to get a cnc plasma table. Thanks for sharing the link to your build thread. I will read through it tonight.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[TyCorr]

I wanna talk about gn hitches and airbags, where do you guys want me to start a thread? Towrig or general?

I planned to use my drawtite gn hitch. My buddy Tim needed one. He now has that. He offered me a hundred over what I paid for the firestone bag setup but I wanted to know if airlift or firestone was better before I installed them? Anybody in here using?

My plan is to go to the hd b&w turnover hitch. Its really the best piece out there. Anybody agree?

This was a body repair/liftkit removal build that has turned into a quick frame off resto. The truck is going back together as a towpig type build.

 

[gnxtc2]

I am using a B&W Turnover GN hitch with outboard Firestone Airbags. The bags are controlled via a wireless Airlift air compressor/controller.

The upper airbag mounts need to be modified along with the 1" bolt that goes in the center. I have a write on PSN on what needs to be done.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[TyCorr]

I am using a B&W Turnover GN hitch with outboard Firestone Airbags. The bags are controlled via a wireless Airlift air compressor/controller.

The upper airbag mounts need to be modified along with the 1" bolt that goes in the center. I have a write on PSN on what needs to be done.

Billy T.
[email protected]

How long in use? Do you love it? What dont you like?

 

[gnxtc2]

Using the hitch/bags/controller set up for 4-5 years without issues. No dislikes, just wish I could lower my truck some but can't due to the RSK. Towed 21,340 lbs with no issues.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[TyCorr]

Yea. I just took the 6" off my 00. Put 4/1 leaves in the rear (3k lb rating) and tough country fronts (2600lbs). The rears are SOFT,which I wanted. Ride smooth unloaded but air it up to tow. I have a 3.5" tapered block and im afraid it'll be too high.

Since ive never done or seen this i wondered how it worked.

 

[psduser1]

I planned to use my drawtite gn hitch. My buddy Tim needed one. He now has that. He offered me a hundred over what I paid for the firestone bag setup but I wanted to know if airlift or firestone was better before I installed them? Anybody in here using?

My plan is to go to the hd b&w turnover hitch. Its really the best piece out there. Anybody agree?

This was a body repair/liftkit removal build that has turned into a quick frame off resto. The truck is going back together as a towpig type build.

I have a set of double pancake Firestone bags on my '00, and a set of airlift on the '01. Both just have Schrader valves at the bumper, lol. Functionally, both brands work great, but I like the Firestone mounts better.
The replacement bags for Firestone are a bit cheaper, as well.

Yea. I just took the 6" off my 00. Put 4/1 leaves in the rear (3k lb rating) and tough country fronts (2600lbs). The rears are SOFT,which I wanted. Ride smooth unloaded but air it up to tow. I have a 3.5" tapered block and im afraid it'll be too high.

Since ive never done or seen this i wondered how it worked.

I eliminated the block entirely, and had the leaves re-ached two inches to minimize axle wrap. It works, but the ride is much harsher. Since it actually spends most of its life doing actual truck stuff, and I started on old square body chevys, I just live with the ride.
Since then, I've learned a lot about ouu and Ala s, and I think next time I'd leave the block for the desired height, and run a set of bars, instead

 

[psduser1]

As far as the gn setup, everyone I know seems to like them. Only problem I've heard about is the ball sticking if it isn't used very often.
Both hitches in th'00 use the Reese style rails, Wichita isn't ideal in a pickup box.

 

[ja_cain]

I have a set of double pancake Firestone bags on my '00, and a set of airlift on the '01. Both just have Schrader valves at the bumper, lol. Functionally, both brands work great, but I like the Firestone mounts better.
The replacement bags for Firestone are a bit cheaper, as well.


I eliminated the block entirely, and had the leaves re-ached two inches to minimize axle wrap. It works, but the ride is much harsher. Since it actually spends most of its life doing actual truck stuff, and I started on old square body chevys, I just live with the ride.
Since then, I've learned a lot about ouu and Ala s, and I think next time I'd leave the block for the desired height, and run a set of bars, instead

My buddy has always run the Firestone bags with the valve at the back bumper too. I've never heard him say anything negative about them either. He's also had trucks where he installed an engine driven pump or an electric pump which was nice but not really necessary.

I learned how to drive in old square body Chevys too. My first vehicle was an 85 custom deluxe 4x4 with a 350. It was a real nice truck.

I'm thinking about doing away with the big block in the back and going to bags so the truck will have a more level look. My gnh is an old style and won't really work with the mounts though. I'll have to swap it out for a newer one.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

The bags won't normally replace the blocks to maintain a "level " stance. They are designed to add weight carrying capacity to the spring.
Unless, of course, you go to a full on air suspension.

 

[ja_cain]

The bags won't normally replace the blocks to maintain a "level " stance. They are designed to add weight carrying capacity to the spring.
Unless, of course, you go to a full on air suspension.

I was thinking more along the lines of running the block that normally comes on a 250. Not as thick as the standard 350 block. Just enough to keep it looking somewhat level with bags Anda reasonable load. Plus, the axle wrap shouldn't be as bad with the shorter block.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

That would work.
2.5" vs 3 or 3.5", I believe.

 

[TyCorr]

I was thinking more along the lines of running the block that normally comes on a 250. Not as thick as the standard 350 block. Just enough to keep it looking somewhat level with bags Anda reasonable load. Plus, the axle wrap shouldn't be as bad with the shorter block.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Official measurements are 2" and 3.69" on 99-04 superduty rear blocks. The 2" block isnt specific to the f250. Many f250 had a 3.69" rear block and overloads. Some ecsb trucks had 2" block and overloads.

Only reason im saying anything is I just went through a research phase on suspensions and its a common belief 250s have 2" blocks and 350s have a 3 1/2 block. My 250 was apparently outfitted with a 3.69" block as built as my skyjacker kit had the stupid 2", 2.5° tapered block only sold for trucks with a 3.5" block that didnt want rake. After learning this i do remember when I picked it up the ass end being super high. I wish Id have kept or kept track of the darn block over the years as its 400 bucks for a set of factory blocks. Shti the stock trackbar bracket was over $200.

I ordered a 3.5" block from pmf with tangs for an airbag setup and Im hoping its not too tall. The 4/1 stock rear leaves are pretty damn squishy. I incorrectly stated they were 3klb springs the other day. I believe they are 2660 ir something. So im sure it'll sag a bit as i put the bed and tool box on it. Well, i dont have the gn hitch on it either or the airbags. So the bag and hitch is another 150lb hanging on the frame back there.

Edit: im doing soft rear springs, 3.5" tapered pmf block, Firestone 5klb airbags with Firestone wireless auto compressor, and pmf traction bars. The front is getting rough country replacement pack that is 3" taller than stock. Its also a fairly heavy spring rate compared to stock springs.

 

[ja_cain]

Official measurements are 2" and 3.69" on 99-04 superduty rear blocks. The 2" block isnt specific to the f250. Many f250 had a 3.69" rear block and overloads. Some ecsb trucks had 2" block and overloads.

Only reason im saying anything is I just went through a research phase on suspensions and its a common belief 250s have 2" blocks and 350s have a 3 1/2 block. My 250 was apparently outfitted with a 3.69" block as built as my skyjacker kit had the stupid 2", 2.5° tapered block only sold for trucks with a 3.5" block that didnt want rake. After learning this i do remember when I picked it up the ass end being super high. I wish Id have kept or kept track of the darn block over the years as its 400 bucks for a set of factory blocks. Shti the stock trackbar bracket was over $200.

I ordered a 3.5" block from pmf with tangs for an airbag setup and Im hoping its not too tall. The 4/1 stock rear leaves are pretty damn squishy. I incorrectly stated they were 3klb springs the other day. I believe they are 2660 ir something. So im sure it'll sag a bit as i put the bed and tool box on it. Well, i dont have the gn hitch on it either or the airbags. So the bag and hitch is another 150lb hanging on the frame back there.

Thanks for the info Ty. My truck has a fair amount of rake with the 3.69" blocks. I have the overload springs too. I may just put x codes on the front to achieve the same effect, but not sure how it will work with my current tire size. I don't want anything bigger than a 33 (I've got the metric equivalent) my truck, so I'm a little unsure of how to proceed.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[psduser1]

The x codes should be plenty to clear a 33.
Ty is probably right, I've never looked that far into it, lol. Always had several sets, and bolted in the one I wanted.
If you call obswiz, he'd probably get you straightened out. That guy has spent some time under these! He does offer custom spring hangers for the front, as well, in 2 or 3".
Overloads won't do anything to affect rake, btw. Other than the fact that they are usually attached to a heavier springpack.
How much weight do you anticipate on the back of the truck?

 

[mattman347]

Just a little extra info here on the SX-E series. The turbines on all of them have been updated, the physical size is the same but its an un-clipped wheel and spools much faster than the old one ever did. The 364.5, 366 and 369SXE series all spool up great with the 7.3L! Take that old .91 housing off the standard 366 and run it on any of the above.

 

[TyCorr]

The x codes should be plenty to clear a 33.
Ty is probably right, I've never looked that far into it, lol. Always had several sets, and bolted in the one I wanted.
If you call obswiz, he'd probably get you straightened out. That guy has spent some time under these! He does offer custom spring hangers for the front, as well, in 2 or 3".
Overloads won't do anything to affect rake, btw. Other than the fact that they are usually attached to a heavier springpack.
How much weight do you anticipate on the back of the truck?

Yes. The only time bags are going to be active empty is if you get really soft springs and its sagging because you run around with a bunch of shti in back "empty". My old springs were still and heavy as hell. They lasted for a long time. There was still a lot of axle wrap. In fact, when i removed the rears the bottom two layers were busted fore of the axle.

I believe bars are the only way to eliminate that physical phenomenon. For $500, why not.

 

[ja_cain]

The x codes should be plenty to clear a 33.
Ty is probably right, I've never looked that far into it, lol. Always had several sets, and bolted in the one I wanted.
If you call obswiz, he'd probably get you straightened out. That guy has spent some time under these! He does offer custom spring hangers for the front, as well, in 2 or 3".
Overloads won't do anything to affect rake, btw. Other than the fact that they are usually attached to a heavier springpack.
How much weight do you anticipate on the back of the truck?

I have 33's on the truck with v codes. No problems clearing them and I like the space between them and the well. The back has just a little too much space though. That's why I'm leaning more towards the 2" block. I am aware that the overloads are really just there for when you hit that big bump with a load, but otherwise don't come into play until then. I have had a few hundo over the max payload capacity and I think the overloads still weren't engaged just sitting there. It would be nice to be able to run a softer spring rate and then use the bags to stiffen them up when you kneed them. Ladder bars or something similar would be nice to control axle wrap as I feel that there is a lot of that going on. I have know idea what kind of loads I'll be carrying long term, but my brother is going to be getting a 5er camper sometime soon and I would love to get gn trailer eventually to transport tractors and other stuff eventually.

Btw, I'll definitely reach out to OBSWIZ when the time comes to reconfigure the suspension. The neighbor actually gave me his old 2" front lift springs. I have been reluctant to put them on, not knowing the actual spring rate.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[ja_cain]

Just a little extra info here on the SX-E series. The turbines on all of them have been updated, the physical size is the same but its an un-clipped wheel and spools much faster than the old one ever did. The 364.5, 366 and 369SXE series all spool up great with the 7.3L! Take that old .91 housing off the standard 366 and run it on any of the above.

Good info. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[ja_cain]

Yes. The only time bags are going to be active empty is if you get really soft springs and its sagging because you run around with a bunch of shti in back "empty". My old springs were still and heavy as hell. They lasted for a long time. There was still a lot of axle wrap. In fact, when i removed the rears the bottom two layers were busted fore of the axle.

I believe bars are the only way to eliminate that physical phenomenon. For $500, why not.

When you put bars on, let me know what you go with. I am definitely sold on them.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk