S366 VS Full Force BASB Bell 300 series Turbo

nossliw

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Hey all,

I have a couple turbo questions for you.

I have a standard S366 I picked up a while back, nothing special done to it, just a baseline model. I have considered a billet wheel, but have never quite understood what all the stage 1/2/3 series turbo builds really consist of. What all they are doing to it to, to really make it worth the extra pennies? I have read a couple of threads using the BASB S300 Series Bell Turbos, specific for towing. They make this thing sound like the holy grail of 300 series turbos, especially for towing and EGT, low RPM spool, and some impressive volumetric flow #'s. It may still be 6-8 months off but I am planning to do a t4 mount, bellows, studs and springs/pushrods. My plan is either to drop the 366 in, or may consider going to the BASB Bell model if its cracked up to be as good as I have read. I want to do it once and do it right for what the truck will be used for. Not keep changing it over and over again. My only forseen future mods after this would be an e-fuel system and in a 100-150k, maybe some stage 2 sticks if the turbo agrees.

I currently have a very mild stage 1 injected, billet wheeled factory rebuilt turbo with an IC and water injection. I can not tow heavy in anything except a stock tune on the chip, it gets waaay too hot waay too fast if I’m not running water. I know my tuning is off and sure would like to get it live tuned one day once I’m done with the turbo swap, but it would be a waste of money at this point and something I’m just going to deal with and drive in the stock tune.

I wanted to ask you all what your opinions of pros and cons of certain setups that you have experienced, not “heard” were excellent. I felt I had read every thread about the s366 vs s4 series, vs H2E vs. D66 vs, 38R and so on. I made my decision on the 366 after my reading whether it right or wrong it’s what I thought was best for me. I simply want a turbo that will keep it cool and is towing friendly. This is not a hot rod truck, and primarily is for commuting or towing 12-16k on average for lengthy trips. My main concern are EGTs, towing in the mountains, and just being a towing/daily driving friendly turbo. I also want a truck that lasts, not one that blows at 200k. For those below 5000 feet towing heavy from 8000 to 11000 feet is much different than flat land towing below 5000.

I have made up my mind on the 366 as of now, but am curious if the BASB Bell model is worth the $1350? Is it rebuildable? I guess after all my hoopla that is my question, with a mild stage 1 or 2 sticked truck with some bitchn’ tuning someday, would it worth ponying up the extra money and going with the BASB 3 series from Full Force over the 366? Is it worth 1350$ Why or why not?

That is all, thank for listening to my mind wondering… I’ll be asking more in the future regarding t4 mounts and measurements from those who have done it themselves, or those who feel Jakes kit is worth 1400, and why? I don't need IC pipes, or a down pipe, intake y or any of that. Just the t4 mount and plumbing, and bellowed up pipes. Thank for your time to hear me ramble on...
 

robnaches

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I have had my BASB turbo now for a couple of years. I have stock injectors, adrenaline HPOP, regulated return fuel system, head studs, custom air intake, 4" exhaust. Jake installed a 6 position chip for me when doing the turbo install. I have a 60 and 80HP tow tunes. I have a 30ft 5th wheel that I tow and have not had any problems with pyro temperatures. Pick up and trailer we are around 20K. Towing temps pulling hard in overdrive with the auto, 80 tow tune will see 1150 on the pyro but we that is about 35 pounds of boost.
I have been very impressed with the turbo and the tunes Jake put in my truck. I was looking at different turbo kit when I met Jake and I am very glad he talked me into his.

Best of luck and happy towing
 

uw mitch

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I've got an LASB (precursor to the BASB) waiting to be installed. I'll let you know what I think in a few weeks when it's in.

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ja_cain

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The BASB is what I'm going with. Sounds like it's comparable to a 38r on spool up but rebuildable and even lower drive pressures thus lower egt's. Should work well witb stock injectors and not be a laggy pig. I like the fact that they moved to the t4 mount from the t4i so if you just have to have those bigger nozzles and a s468 later on you will already have the right mount. You should also be able to upgrade the turbo with larger comp wheel in the future like the older turbos or the h2e.

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superduty4x4

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I don't need IC pipes, or a down pipe, intake y or any of that. Just the t4 mount and plumbing, and bellowed up pipes. Thank for your time to hear me ramble on...

You'll need the down pipe from Irate, the exhaust outlet position is different with the T4 mount.
 

Swaan

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The bell turbo has a 64 mm comp wheel vs the 66 in the 366

The turbine side is 68-74 in the bell vs the 74-80 in the 366.

And I'm perty sure the a/r on the turbine housing is .91 on both.

This is why the basb spools so much better then 366.

But I think the 366 is better suited for stage 2 inj and small hybrids. Where as the basb is running outta breath at the top end with 2s
 

ja_cain

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The bell turbo has a 64 mm comp wheel vs the 66 in the 366

The turbine side is 68-74 in the bell vs the 74-80 in the 366.

And I'm perty sure the a/r on the turbine housing is .91 on both.

This is why the basb spools so much better then 366.

But I think the 366 is better suited for stage 2 inj and small hybrids. Where as the basb is running outta breath at the top end with 2s

I think the turbine housing is 1.10. Drive pressures are extremely low per Jeremiah Mercer's thread in the obs section. He is running 175/80 too with no problems.

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Swaan

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That's the thing with pius, he grinds off the numbers on the housing so you can't tell. Mine might of been a 1.10 , that's the only part I couldn't tell.
But for low rpm towing and staying cool on the egts the bell turbo is better.
 

uw mitch

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After reading the Jeremiah Mercer thread on the other forum, I'm even more excited to get me LASB from Swaan into the truck.
 

Swaan

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You,re gonna love it Mitch. There's a part of me that wishes I just kept it. Lol
Worked great for towing !
 

nossliw

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You'll need the down pipe from Irate, the exhaust outlet position is different with the T4 mount.

Already picked up a 4" DP from a fellow member that came of a 366

The bell turbo has a 64 mm comp wheel vs the 66 in the 366

The turbine side is 68-74 in the bell vs the 74-80 in the 366.

And I'm perty sure the a/r on the turbine housing is .91 on both.

This is why the basb spools so much better then 366.

But I think the 366 is better suited for stage 2 inj and small hybrids. Where as the basb is running outta breath at the top end with 2s

I purchased the S366, will probably go to stage 2 sticks once these stage 1s toast out.
 

gnxtc2

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I would size the turbo on how you are going to use the truck and what rpm it's going to see most of the time.

The BASB starts spooling around 1500 rpm
The 366 starts around 1800-2000 rpm

My truck is almost identical to Jeremiah's truck except for the trans and HPOP. I ordered a BASB. My cruising rpms in OD at 55mph is 1450 and 70mph is 1850 hence the reason I went with the BASB. I tow at 70mph. I have run 285s with 3.55s.

Billy T.
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nossliw

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I would size the turbo on how you are going to use the truck and what rpm it's going to see most of the time.

The BASB starts spooling around 1500 rpm
The 366 starts around 1800-2000 rpm

My truck is almost identical to Jeremiah's truck except for the trans and HPOP. I ordered a BASB. My cruising rpms in OD at 55mph is 1450 and 70mph is 1850 hence the reason I went with the BASB. I tow at 70mph. I have run 285s with 3.55s.

Billy T.
[email protected]

The with 4.10s 285/75s and a 5 speed I'm not worried about keeping the 366 lit, 70 cruising is around 2500, 80 is damn near 2900. I drive like a granny at 65-70 everywhere, and normally tow around 70 or tad bit more depending on the hills.
 

ja_cain

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The with 4.10s 285/75s and a 5 speed I'm not worried about keeping the 366 lit, 70 cruising is around 2500, 80 is damn near 2900. I drive like a granny at 65-70 everywhere, and normally tow around 70 or tad bit more depending on the hills.

What kind of fuel economy do you get with that gearing?

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The bell turbo has a 64 mm comp wheel vs the 66 in the 366

The turbine side is 68-74 in the bell vs the 74-80 in the 366.

And I'm perty sure the a/r on the turbine housing is .91 on both.

This is why the basb spools so much better then 366.

But I think the 366 is better suited for stage 2 inj and small hybrids. Where as the basb is running outta breath at the top end with 2s

The basb turbo moves about 150cfm more air than the 366, at what point on a turbo map I couldn't tell ya... i would guess more air is more air, and the basb is rated with all the same paremeters as the 366, they recomend a waiste gate at anything 238/100 and up, top end on my truck is awsome, deffinitly dont run out of air... as for the turbine a/r, it is not ground off and is clearly marked 1.10.
 

ja_cain

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The basb turbo moves about 150cfm more air than the 366, at what point on a turbo map I couldn't tell ya... i would guess more air is more air, and the basb is rated with all the same paremeters as the 366, they recomend a waiste gate at anything 238/100 and up, top end on my truck is awsome, deffinitly dont run out of air... as for the turbine a/r, it is not ground off and is clearly marked 1.10.

That is what I thought on the turbine a/r. I would love to get the map on this turbo so I can compare it to some garret and bw equivalents.

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ja_cain

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Also, it makes sense that Pigs would come up with a compressor wheel that flows more air than a 366 but spool faster down low. Otherwise, you could just go to a smaller 300 series turbo that has the faster spool up without the higher cfm flow and spend less money. Can't wait to get mine :)

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Swaan

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The basb turbo moves about 150cfm more air than the 366, at what point on a turbo map I couldn't tell ya... i would guess more air is more air, and the basb is rated with all the same paremeters as the 366, they recomend a waiste gate at anything 238/100 and up, top end on my truck is awsome, deffinitly dont run out of air... as for the turbine a/r, it is not ground off and is clearly marked 1.10.

What does rated with all the same paremeters mean?? I do know my lasb I got from pius did not have a A/R number on the hot housing. But maybe now he sends them out with out grinding them off , who knows.
 

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