school me on block fill and fire rings!

Magnum PD

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I took them my bare block, heads, and pisons. Block fill, new cam bearings, decked head mating surfaces on both. New inj cups and bored out the block for .020 over Pistons, radius cut the blows. I'll pm you the price.
 

hunterER7

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How much that run if you don't mind me asking

I took them my bare block, heads, and pisons. Block fill, new cam bearings, decked head mating surfaces on both. New inj cups and bored out the block for .020 over Pistons, radius cut the blows. I'll pm you the price.

was thinking the same thing. if you dont mind id like to hear what that ran you as well.
 

m j

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fill pics - after the grout cured I used a carbide bit in my die grinder to open the water passages further

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fire rings in block - done on a Rottler boring machine

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m j

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it was easy.

the grout kicked very fast.
it goes from 'this is way too liquid" to "start pouring fast!"
I think I went too tall with the fill, we shall see

the machinist had to order a custom cutter from rottler and he called Swamps for a conversation on the procedure
 

97stoker350

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Swamps will tell you just about anything you wanna know. I called the engine dept. Whenputting my motor together and they walked me right thru a couple steps right over the phone. They will always have my biz
 
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The process is very easy just takes attention to detail.
1. With a bare block on a engine stand tape off the deck surface, front and at the oil cooler completely. Then cut out for the water passages.
2. I use 3/4 in poly hose and route water passages to the water pump holes on the front and the oil cooler ports.
3. Install your main caps and girdle.
4. Mix your filler till it will flow easily. It's easier to mix it in small batches. The consistency of the filler works best when it is about the same viscosity as cold oil or slightly thicker.
5. Begin pouring filler in the water jacket holes from the deck surface
6. Pay close attention to the level of the filler and that it even through out the block.
7. Once to desired fill, tap the block with a rubber mallet to get as many air bubbles out as possible.
8. Install deck plate and torque to spec.
9. Let this side sit for 24 hours. Then repeat for the other side of the block.
10. After about a day you should be able to remove the poly hose while the filler is still "soft" but will not run. Use a screw driver to shape up your ports
11. Alow about 10 days to fully cure with the deckplates and girdle installed before any machine work.
12. Use a carbide bit to further shape up the ports

That's it's very simple process

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hunterER7

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Thanks for the run down guys. Any and all info helps. Seems straight forward for the most part. Now I'm just trying to figure out if I'm staying with the good ole 7.3 or not.


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