School me on valve springs. And studs

littleredstroker

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Gettin a turbo in the next few weeks. Decided its time for studs and springs.,

ARP studs? That's what I've been leaning to, yes or no? Goal is only 550-575 would they be good?

What valve springs

I've seen everyone talk about comp 910s but I'm curious as to what else is.out.there, I saw swamps had some for sale also, what's the difference

Also from what I gather 125-130 pounds of force is what you want, why no more?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!
 

7.3psd97444

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Gettin a turbo in the next few weeks. Decided its time for studs and springs.,

ARP studs? That's what I've been leaning to, yes or no? Goal is only 550-575 would they be good?

What valve springs

I've seen everyone talk about comp 910s but I'm curious as to what else is.out.there, I saw swamps had some for sale also, what's the difference

Also from what I gather 125-130 pounds of force is what you want, why no more?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

What turbo are you getting? stock style mounting or a T4 mount? Studs would be a good investment. Arps are just fine. Probobly the best.

Far as I know Comp 910s are one of the only ones you can get. I think there might be one other but I cant think of it off the top of my head. As far as whats on Swamps that they sell, I dont know. I cant speak for them. I want to say yes those are Comps but I dont know. If shimmed right the comps will be more then enough seat pressure to hold pretty much whatever you through at it. But I see with those trusty PMR's you got, depending on how you go about these changes and teh tuning you use, you might want to adress the bottom end as well. And if you doing studs and springs and havent done Pushrods already you'd be silly not to. Smith Bros Chromoly 3/8'' pushrods.
 

littleredstroker

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What turbo are you getting? stock style mounting or a T4 mount? Studs would be a good investment. Arps are just fine. Probobly the best.

Far as I know Comp 910s are one of the only ones you can get. I think there might be one other but I cant think of it off the top of my head. As far as whats on Swamps that they sell, I dont know. I cant speak for them. I want to say yes those are Comps but I dont know. If shimmed right the comps will be more then enough seat pressure to hold pretty much whatever you through at it. But I see with those trusty PMR's you got, depending on how you go about these changes and teh tuning you use, you might want to adress the bottom end as well. And if you doing studs and springs and havent done Pushrods already you'd be silly not to. Smith Bros Chromoly 3/8'' pushrods.

Stock style mount..

I remember reading a long time ago not to replace pushrods because it best to have the weak link be something cheap and easy to replace so u hadn't planned on that yet. I fully intend to blow this.motor up eventually, can I reuse the studs and springs?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!
 

02BigD

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For 7.3's seems like all the high hp people run H-11 studs.

910's are a good fit because they require no machining of the heads, and are readily available at a good price point.

The issue with leaving the pushrods factory is the added force required to open the valves with higher seat pressure of aftermarket springs and higher boost levels. Factory pushrods were designed for factory parts, not high performance. If you bend a pushrod, something is wrong and needs to be addressed.
 

CSIPSD

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Never bent a stock pushrod... Thats running over 50# boost so...

I've run 910's because there easy and work.

ARP's are fine. H-11 are more money but give more options as far as reuse.
 

7.3psd97444

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910s can be had for 90 bucks. and like said above they do their job and well, and cheap. Pushrods arent really expensive either.

And ide bet money, if you do studs springs, and pushrods, the weakest link will most likely be your rods after that. Thats just my statistic opinion. Course thats up to tuning as well. As far as the springs and pushrods go, long as they are undamages in the event of the motor going bye bye, you should be able to reuse them, ive seen many instances where studs have been reused as well.
 

littleredstroker

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910s can be had for 90 bucks. and like said above they do their job and well, and cheap. Pushrods arent really expensive either.

And ide bet money, if you do studs springs, and pushrods, the weakest link will most likely be your rods after that. Thats just my statistic opinion. Course thats up to tuning as well. As far as the springs and pushrods go, long as they are undamages in the event of the motor going bye bye, you should be able to reuse them, ive seen many instances where studs have been reused as well.

Arps reused or h11

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!
 

CSIPSD

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And what if you shim it to more than the 125-130 pounds?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

You can only shim them so much, then you end up getting spring bind...

H-11's are said to be reuseable.

ARP's are infact reuseable as well...
 

PSDEng

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And what if you shim it to more than the 125-130 pounds?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

We have to remember here that shimming a spring is for the purpose of installed height....not to give you a certain pressure. One is simply a consequence of the other.
 

907DAVE

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You should be checking installed height and correcting it - regardless of the spring you choose.

You might also look into the Crower springs.
 

7.3psd97444

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Someone needs to do a good write up on valve spring set up...

That would be nice. I thought there was one so I looked through several forums and came up with nothing. Diesel Power Mag did one several months ago in a tech section but it lacked major detail.
 

Lang

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Someone needs to do a good write up on valve spring set up...

Thought you commented on a write up on another forum? There is 1 I just don't remember where. Google it and you'll find it
 

Lang

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Speaking of studs, if I upgrade to 38R with 160cc injectors would I need them?
 

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