sleppah stance and angles.

[Brad.S.19]

Alright I probably should not buy any lottery tickets or maybe that will change my luck but. Had a typical college night studying then dnd morning thought I hit the curb and nope this happened.

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Did not realize it had beach ripples on the break so no idea how I could have told that was broke.

Now replacement will be with x codes and bilstein shocks
I want the correct stance though
sleepah just like some ole 7.3 work truck I have some 16x10 -24mm and 4.5 bs And will be wrapped in a 305 70 16 need a slightly softer compound
I want the 1"-1.5" of rake versus the 4" I have right now
I need to get the correct angles also I do not want to wrap drive shafts up or trash a lot of parts for the wrong angles on rough roads with added power and towing.

Really getting sick of this cumminGs kid all talk no game no power need to blow his doors off and the duramax guys too haha. LOL

 

[04cr450]

x codes are awesome, put them on my truck a couple months ago. will give u a 2" lift in the front. they are some stout thick springs that do not sag whatsoever and the ride quality improved a lot.

 

[Brad.S.19]

x codes are awesome, put them on my truck a couple months ago. will give u a 2" lift in the front. they are some stout thick springs that do not sag whatsoever and the ride quality improved a lot.

Yeah I hope so I have a SH I T ton of body roll I can feel the front end dive going down some roads and others it gets the mexican hop to it. I may just pull my blocks out and make some shims to get my desired stance.

 

[Jason]

The hell is "sleepah stance"??

 

[morepower02]

You beat me to it..

 

[Brad.S.19]

Sleepah stance, I was just being corny about the stance I am trying to achieve. The way it sits now is to high in the rear for me it is causing a overly aggressive drive line angle. What is the proper angle for the drive shaft to slip joint, slip joint to the differential? I am at 6 degrees for trans to slip joint and 13 degrees slip joint to diff right now. I am thinking 3-3 1/2 and 4-6 1/2 should be the ideal angle for the stance I am trying to achieve so when it is loaded I still maintain a decent angle for the suspension to travel with the joint when I weight.

I am getting new overloads, airbags, shorter block or no block for now plus the other parts I need to fix it. I may be over thinking some of it,
I currently have 43-1263hd springs in the rear and will be putting x codes in the front the goal is 1-1 1/2 of rake traction bars tuned shocks then upgraded steering later. I am thinking of going with pmf traction blocks with dual stabilizers steering upgrades and handling upgrades the body roll is bad.

 

[psduser1]

Fck your stance... if your working it. If it's a toy, fine. Otherwise, set it up by driveshaft angles. Ideal angle will be the same at both ends of the driveshaft i.e.4* at the pinion, 4* at the tailshaft. More than about a 1/2 degree difference will show up as increased wear on the higher angle ujoint. Obviously, driving habits make a difference.
You can also change the transmission mounts a little to help the angle on that end, or use tapered shims on the axle end.
Buy the spring based on intended weight you carrying, whether it's an empty box, or 2k worth of trailer.

 

[Jason]

What he said.


If you want "sleeper stance", leave the mother ***er alone. Nothing more sleeper than that. This term stance needs to be put to rest. If you want it to sit properly, new oem stock springs front and rear...factory replacements. Remove the rear block, shim carrier bearing properly, sway bars, and shocks..DONE. It's an eclb one ton truck, not a new Shelby...it has no "stance", nor will it look cool, hotrod-ish etc. So it's best to just level it with new crap, replace the worn parts, and be happy.

 

[morepower02]

What he said.


If you want "sleeper stance", leave the mother ***er alone. Nothing more sleeper than that. This term stance needs to be put to rest. If you want it to sit properly, new oem stock springs front and rear...factory replacements. Remove the rear block, shim carrier bearing properly, sway bars, and shocks..DONE. It's an eclb one ton truck, not a new Shelby...it has no "stance", nor will it look cool, hotrod-ish etc. So it's best to just level it with new crap, replace the worn parts, and be happy.

LOL.

 

[04cr450]

agreed^ I put xcode springs on the front of mine, and removed the 4" factory block, replaced with an 1.5" block from pmf. looks good, level front to back, and low enough.

 

[Brad.S.19]

I honestly hate the squat when trucks are loaded I need a new carrier bearing anyways the rust got to it. The Oem springs I have are way to light for what I am going to be using it for now I need to get air bags also probably a stiffer set of sway bars. I plan on getting 5100s and the stance is really annoying with how the angled rear is at it does not work that well as a field work bench. I will be adding a skid with tool boxes and a welder if a get the apprenticeship I am looking into when I get the certs I need. But mainly right now it is a tow/haul rig adding a gn at some point when I get the money for a trailer and the set up. But really I want it to sit level when I load it up that's the main point.

 

[Jason]

If you don't want any squat, here's what I did on my 02 ccsb. Procomp leveling kit up front...it's a complete leaf replacement, not a mini pack. And oem rear springs, with a f350 dually rear block. Ran that on 305/55/18's, and the truck sat about 1" higher MAYBE in the back. Then ran firestone bags.

But, what the hell are you doing with your truck that oem springs can't handle?? I have put a pallet of grass in the bed of my '00 2wd f250, and it sat level.

 

[Brad.S.19]

If you don't want any squat, here's what I did on my 02 ccsb. Procomp leveling kit up front...it's a complete leaf replacement, not a mini pack. And oem rear springs, with a f350 dually rear block. Ran that on 305/55/18's, and the truck sat about 1" higher MAYBE in the back. Then ran firestone bags.

But, what the hell are you doing with your truck that oem springs can't handle?? I have put a pallet of grass in the bed of my '00 2wd f250, and it sat level.

Most times 1k trailer tongue with a pallet(1 ton) in the bed or scrap in the bed with a hefty trailer load for short distances. I have 43-812(2083/lb each) in the front which seem extremely light for the weight in the front alone. I have a 2 3/8's block with 43-1263hd springs 7 leaf in the rear. I always take back roads which are causing tons of body roll especially with weight had a broken down c13 block head and some misc parts 30 miles and that weighted it down some and the roll and front end dived like hell.

 

[Brad.S.19]

Bump

got the x codes almost in today just a few q's
the pass side hanger using the hardware the spring shop supplied it is almost just long enough but the driver side it is just right?

the axle is cocked off to one side now was not before will a tow adjustment fix this or should I do a caster camber with a poss of adjustable track bar?

It had newer hardware and the springs replaced at some point they are not the oe units almost looks like they walled on it with a impact and used the wrong hardware with red loctite to my joy. It sits almost level now with the factory 250 block i should not have a issue fitting a 295/75r16 toyo at2 on 16x10s? Also does anyone have any pics of a truck with that wheel/tire setup?

Should I go with a drop in bolt on replacement bilstein stabilizer or duals and how should I tell when my shocks are shot I can compress them with my bare hands.

 

[dsberman94]

Couldn't just replAce with stock spring code?

 

[Brad.S.19]

Couldn't just replAce with stock spring code?

As I mentioned before they are 43-812 and I can stand on them and they bow now judging by the great roads we have they would suffer a similar fate once again. I also have the 6+1 in the rear which I wanted to even the ride out some what and maximize carrying capacity once I add my gooseneck.

 

[Brad.S.19]

Got the x-codes, wheels and tires on, now I need a carrier bearing and the current drive angle is about 6 degrees. I am curious as to the better of the manufacturers of the bearing and holder hoop. As for shims were would a good starting pointing for a thinkness point be none are in atm.

My shift points or the rpm I am running are not matching road speed @ 65 I am turning 1900 in od no problem. but when going the back roads back to school they are curvy hills mostly 40-55 I try to maintain around that I try to gain speed into them with light throttle then it starts slowing down about 5-10 +/- mph drops from 1800ish rpm to 1400< drops down revs to 2000 thought I had a stuck caliper but just water splashing onto them making steam.
The new set up is 16x10 4.5 bs w/ -25mm with 305/70r16 toyo open country m/t basically a 33 the stock size was a 265/75r16 for my truck just really annoying.