smoke haze at idle

[mandkole]

Youve adequately checked pressure and the system does not hold pressure when pump is off. My pump runs at KOEO, but will shut off if you do not start the engine within about 30-40 secs. At that moment, pressure drops to zero-- but, if I was to just start the motor at that moment (without rekeying the pump), it will light no problem.

42psi at idle is not causing haze-- there is plenty of pressure for the demand. 5 might but 42 wont. 42 is even ok to cruise on but not for max effort-- you should have 60-65

My concern is why you show 3ms of PW at moments of when your ICP is at idle pressure. It should drop to idle PW (less than 1ms). If that is really what is happening (vs having a datalogger glitch), that might cause haze and overfueling.

 

[Blowby]

It's in the tuning.....

 

[GreasyFingers]

The truck has stock tuning.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_R3P_BsrJI

 

[GreasyFingers]

Youve adequately checked pressure and the system does not hold pressure when pump is off. My pump runs at KOEO, but will shut off if you do not start the engine within about 30-40 secs. At that moment, pressure drops to zero-- but, if I was to just start the motor at that moment (without rekeying the pump), it will light no problem.

I would swear the last time I checked the fuel pressure it came up to pressure and held, only leaking down about 20 psi over the course of a couple hours. But I could be mistaken.


I will check the pw again with less parameters running. Maybe there was some lag due to logging 6 parameters.

 

[Blowby]

The truck has stock tuning.

Something's F'n with the ICP then. What's the DC look like?

 

[Dieselboy.]

Youve adequately checked pressure and the system does not hold pressure when pump is off. My pump runs at KOEO, but will shut off if you do not start the engine within about 30-40 secs. At that moment, pressure drops to zero-- but, if I was to just start the motor at that moment (without rekeying the pump), it will light no problem.

42psi at idle is not causing haze-- there is plenty of pressure for the demand. 5 might but 42 wont. 42 is even ok to cruise on but not for max effort-- you should have 60-65

My concern is why you show 3ms of PW at moments of when your ICP is at idle pressure. It should drop to idle PW (less than 1ms). If that is really what is happening (vs having a datalogger glitch), that might cause haze and overfueling.

On single shots yes.
Split shots no. Splits idle around 2ms. It commanding 3ms is a tad high however.
And as for fuel pressure. Mine does the exact same. As soon as the timer shuts the pump off it bleeds to 0psi. But will fire no problem

 

[POWER-STRUCK]

are you checking pressure before or after the filter?

 

[mandkole]

On single shots yes.
Split shots no. Splits idle around 2ms.

Ok, I did not know that, but it makes sense as splits do the pilot shot.

 

[GreasyFingers]

Well I haven't had time to do anymore testing. I've been absolutely slammed with work and school. I haven't done anything besides work, homework, and classes. However I have a new development. on my way to work (1.5 miles from the house) this morning I went through the drive through for some coffee. I shut the truck off to hear the intercom, and when I started it back up the cel cam on for about a minute then turned off. I pulled the codes with the new CTS and it's showing a P0107; Map sensor out of range. I'm going to see if I can hook the map to a compressor/regulator to graph the output voltage and check the cac boots.

I finally got a day off tomorrow so I should have a couple hours to see what else I can find. But I still have tons of homework to do and I promised a friend (Disabled Viet-Vet) to help him with his truck that's on the fritz. I'll have to start a new thread in the 6.Oh section.

To and salt to the wounds; as I left campus tonight , the truck had a hard start. I took it into work (auto parts store) and tested the batteries and SURPRISE I have 2 bad batteries that were just replaced last July. WaMart batteries suck donkey Dik! 3 sets <5 years.

But you know me, I can't complain...

 

[mandkole]

Just turn the chip way down, keep it running and put the truck on the back burner. Hassling with a modded diesel is definitely not in the cards for you right now.

Walmart sells nothing that doesnt give up something for the low price guarantee. Let me guess... their warranty is prorated and likely the price went up again since the last time your bought them so the pro rate is a smaller % towards new ones.

 

[GreasyFingers]

Truck is back to stock, no chip.


As far as the batteries go; My wife bought the batteries when I was deployed. 2 years latter when I was deployed again the batteries went out on her while still under 3 year free replacement warranty. Roadside assistance jumped her off and she went to an auto parts store to have them charged and tested. When they tested bad she went to walmart to have them replaced, but when they tested them they said they were good. The batteries went out on her a couple days later while shopping at walmart. they were tested for the second time by walmat and again said they were good. Sense she was stuck in the parking lot during winter in North Dakota she bought another set of walmart batteries. Less than 2 years later (July 2012) while still under warranty, the batteries sh!t the bed after I got out of the Army and started working for an auto parts store. Once again walmart said the batteries were good and will not replace them. After a very stern talk with a manager he agreed to replace them. Now 1 year 3 months later they are bad again. I have a new alternator that is testing good, new battery cables, clean ground, no excessive amp draw from the starter, and tested for a parasitic draw with a amp meter with negative results. I was wanting to get a set of DieHard Platinums but that is cost prohibitive right now. So I will get a set from work at a discounted price with a decent warranty that I do not have to keep a receipt for. All I have to say is :flipa: Wal-Mart!