smokie the psd

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

Silverpsd 06 where is wellsville ks.? I'm row up south of Ottawa.

neverkickn · Feb 21, 2013

yzmatt said:
On the straightedge thing. I do have one on each bank, the same too second one back that are ever so slightly higher. Like a 1/16" maybe. But wouldn't it show something before today? Just figured it was a fluke

Takes a few miles for the heat from the combustion gasses to melt the lower oring. You can drive it a little bit with no symptoms before this problem exhibits.

How did you seat the injectors in the bore?

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

neverkickn said:
I don't have near the experience necessary to answer that but I can tell you that if you dont get an injector fully seated in the cup that the copper crush washer will allow combustion gasses/heat to pass up to the lower oring that seals the fuel off. When that oring melts it will allow fuel to piss out into the cylinder, which in turn causes the smoke and raw fuel smell out of the exhaust.

That's good to know. Maybe I will be tearing into it tomorrow and looking at it. Can I reuse the copper washers again? Probably not huh? Hate to take them out and then be screwed until I get new copper washers again. I watched a video that said to pull the valve cover gasket and start engine and pull the wiring from each injector one at a time to see which one causes a change in tone to find to problematic one.

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

With a Big As Hammer. NO not really. My hand until the last steel ring and d then a rubber mallet finishing with using the hold down bolt to finish it.

neverkickn · Feb 21, 2013

I wouldn't start it again till you figured out where the extra fuel is coming from.

I can get the coppers at a local injection shop by themselves. Do you have a local fuel injection shop close?

How did you seat the injectors when you installed them?

silverpsd_06 · Feb 21, 2013

It is northeast of ottawa by about fifteen or twenty minutes up I-35. It will make a very distinct sound when you seat the injector with the rubber mallet if you just sucked them down with the injector hold down bolt an unseated injector would be your culprit

neverkickn · Feb 21, 2013

yzmatt said:
With a Big As Hammer. NO not really. My hand until the last steel ring and d then a rubber mallet finishing with using the hold down bolt to finish it.

They HAVE to be seated before you tighten the hold down. The hold down will not seat them.

Pull the vc's and start with one that was higher. Just pull it out and inspect it. I suspect the tip will be discolored and the copper crush washer will be destroyed along with the lower oring.

I smack em good with a rubber mallet till I hear a tone change.

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

What is the correct way to seat the injectors?
Hated hitting the top of the injector on the solenoid.
Towards the end I was hitting the bolts on the edge of the solenoid. Figured that may be better. The bolt probably did the last 1/8' inch. After I torqued them down I hit the tops one last time with the mallet for good measure and then checked the torque and they were all still good.

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

Man you guys would of be good to know last week. Ok pulling them tomorrow and will see what I have going. And no there is no injector shops around. Ford dealer about 35 miles away though. You guys hit them that hard on the top on the gold colored solenoid? Won't they break?

neverkickn · Feb 21, 2013

yzmatt said:
What is the correct way to seat the injectors?
Hated hitting the top of the injector on the solenoid.
Towards the end I was hitting the bolts on the edge of the solenoid. Figured that may be better. The bolt probably did the last 1/8' inch. After I torqued them down I hit the tops one last time with the mallet for good measure and then checked the torque and they were all still good.

Hit them on the solenoid with a rubber mallet. You aint gonna hurt them. They are all metal with a hard as nails plastic solenoid case. It will sound like clank, clank, clank, thud. The last two that are recessed under the cowl will be the most tricky but you will just have to use shorter blows with the mallet.

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

That's why Wellsville sounded familiar. It's been ten years since I've been back. Went to high school in Colony Kansas. Anyways thanks so much for the help. I do really appreciate it.

silverpsd_06 · Feb 21, 2013

Anytime... Smack them ***rs you won't hurt them trust me takes Alot to break that solenoid case. Don't miss and get the connectors though..

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

Ok I'm pulling them off tomorrow and redoing them all. You have given me hope. I was ready to light a match to it, except diesel won't burn like gas will. HAhaha

yzmatt · Feb 21, 2013

Don't miss and get the connectors though.

True that>>>

neverkickn · Feb 21, 2013

yzmatt said:
Ok I'm pulling them off tomorrow and redoing them all. You have given me hope. I was ready to light a match to it, except diesel won't burn like gas will. HAhaha

If it's just orings you are getting off easy. Last time I swapped a 7.3 I was pulling it back out within 15 minutes of initial startup because I fubared the oil pan seal:cursing:

yzmatt · Feb 22, 2013

I was pulling it back out within 15 minutes of initial startup because I fubared the oil pan seal.

That would suck. What really bugs me is that I'm doing it again and I will be doing even again when I do finally get new injectors. How do I know if I hurt one of my pistons? Is it wither I did and there is a big noise and obvious or could be messed up and not know until I'm out in BFE oregon camping with the whole family?

yzmatt · Apr 16, 2013

Well I finally got off my butt and pulled the injectors and not an oring was bad. Sent the injectors to Full Force and have stage ones on the way. So problem solved I hope. Getting a 60 econo tune burned onto the pcm and just got conformation that its on its way home also. Ya me. Will post when new injectors in and all buttoned up.