So it begins

isootmypants

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Fat tatties
 

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isootmypants

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Power wash. Scaled frame. Then flapper disc. Wire wheel. Power wash. Must on thinner and wipe down. Used 1 gallon of Majic diamond hard truck tractor auto primer, and the same brand but in gloss black. Reduces with water. 5-10% by volume if being sprayed. Regulated at 40psi, 1.4 tip maxed out.
 

isootmypants

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Did under my cab and driveshafts Monday. Under cab was scaled and sanded, POR15, then 2 coats of ford light grey, 2 coats clear. Driveshaft was sanded smooth, 2 coats of POR15, 2 coats clear

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b145/wtbz400/Mobile Uploads/image-15.jpg

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Then I also replaced upper and lower ball joints on each side, inner axle seals, steering box, all new shocks and steering stabilizer, reloomed and taped entire chassis harness, rerouted fuel lines, waiting on pan from Cory, will be here today.
 

isootmypants

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I spoke to Carson today, said the motor SHOULD be done before I leave for Georgia on the 27th. He spoke with Barder and said that he can make a t4 housing for my t4i charger which was a 75/88/1.15. Carson and I have been tryin to decide on what housing to run, 1.0 or. 1.10. I want a quicker spool up, and I know it will be quicker already with the t4 throat rather than a t4i, and a difference from a .15 to a .10. I will be running my 300/200 for now, and spray will come later next year. Should I also keep my cast 6 blade or do the billet 6 blade?
 

PSDEng

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In my opinion go with the 1.10. No brainer imo to go with the billet 6 blade. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to spool that up with the amount of fuel you'll have. I would be keeping an eye on back pressure with the smaller housing though. Autometer makes a gauge for that now btw.
 

isootmypants

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In my opinion go with the 1.10. No brainer imo to go with the billet 6 blade. There's no reason you shouldn't be able to spool that up with the amount of fuel you'll have. I would be keeping an eye on back pressure with the smaller housing though. Autometer makes a gauge for that now btw.

I have all isspro, can I use a regular boost gauge to run it? Make a copper pig tail off the manifold to disapate heat and use boost gauge?
 

PSDEng

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I have all isspro, can I use a regular boost gauge to run it? Make a copper pig tail off the manifold to disapate heat and use boost gauge?

That's what most have done in the past, and that's basically what Autometer does. Either way they'll have to be cleaned out from time to time. That being said, once you have your tuning right, back pressure shouldn't change much so if you found a cheap gauge somewhere you could rig something temporary up, you'll just have an extra hole in your exhaust manifold.
 

TARM

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I have all isspro, can I use a regular boost gauge to run it? Make a copper pig tail off the manifold to disapate heat and use boost gauge?

THey have a back pressure gauge but yes its the same as a boost as far as I know looking at it. As its all electronic what I would do is use the back pressure sensor tube and if you want to add extra saftey to bleed the heat off take some copper tubing and wrap it around a tube or spray can and make a bunch of coils then attach it to the BP tube and the other end to the sensor. That would allow it to act as a cooling manifold to help the sensor last. I think the main issue will be possible clogging over time from the soot but that should be as easy a taking the sensor off and cleaning it. You could put a small inline filter possibly. I think we had a discussion a few years ago about how best to make this work in a long term way. Maybe have been over on PSN before PSA. But maybe people have had no trouble without anything extra beyond possibly dealing with the heat. IMO if it can go 50K to me that would be a very acceptable duty life for the sensor itself in a electronic setup like the issopro
 

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