DocBar
New member
What kind of padding were you able to give injectors for that price? If it fits, it ships is great and all, but getting damaged goods just to save on shipping really sux.
SRP1.1 failure
- Thread starter 97stoker350
- Start date
JSchuricht
Member
I completely agree. Properly packed items should have at least 2" of protection all the way around. You should also be able to use the box as a soccer ball without damaging the contents. You don't want to have to deal with USPS on a damaged item, it sucks and cost me over a month during my build.
backwoodsboy
New member
...and me a set of cores...
Milford
New member
They were cores. I had tons of bubble wrap in it to and each wrapped individually. I just covered the whole box in tape to keep it from closed. USPS didn't like it but hey, it fit.
I rebuilt my new ipr and the orings all looked fine as they should. The ipr is about three months old and the orings were all good visually but I replaced it all anyway.
The oil leak did not change. Its originating from the front of the motor. The valley is holding oil. Right up near the hpop. Ive had people throttle the motor as jake(linc locker) suggested and watch and i cant see the oil leak. It must only do it +2k psi under load. The oil sitting in the back of the rear cover is pointing toward this same fate. Im gonna have a crazier buddy come.by and powerbrake it while i stand(i know, bad idea) on the front bumper and look at the oil pump.
Ill keep this thread updated. Love the pump but haaate oil leaks, especially considering I pulled my motor to fix them all and replace the oilpan.
The oil leak did not change. Its originating from the front of the motor. The valley is holding oil. Right up near the hpop. Ive had people throttle the motor as jake(linc locker) suggested and watch and i cant see the oil leak. It must only do it +2k psi under load. The oil sitting in the back of the rear cover is pointing toward this same fate. Im gonna have a crazier buddy come.by and powerbrake it while i stand(i know, bad idea) on the front bumper and look at the oil pump.
Ill keep this thread updated. Love the pump but haaate oil leaks, especially considering I pulled my motor to fix them all and replace the oilpan.
vanderchevy18
New member
Dude. You need to clean everything in the valley till it is spotless. Perfectly clean. Then look. I had a truck that I couldn't find the leak on to save my life. Turned out to be the oil bypass spring plug. It's the plug in the block on top to the right of the resivour where the hpop mounts. It took me completely cleaning the engine till it was spotless and getting a second set of eyes before I found it.
The valley is spotless! Its bright aluminum silver too. Theres oil in the back of the hpop on the.cover and in the helicoil groove. Theres a drop on the top of the case of the hpop but when I clean the front two divots out in the valley I take a new rag and wipe under the pump itself and its always clean. The lines are new and wrapped in loom. Ive taken the loom off and its clean in there. There is no "trail" either from it running down from the source. It doesnt do it always. If I start the truck.and the.icp.stays low it will clean in the valley. After 2k psi, forget it. You're gonna get drips.out the drain in the rear of the valley. :shrug:
Where is this plug again?
Where is this plug again?
Turbo Man
New member
Try cleaning up all the oil and then pack the area tightly with rags or paper towels. Go for a ride to get the pressure up, then come back and slowly remove the towels. You should find a wet spot on the towels and that should show you where the leak is coming from.
Yea, thats kinda what we tried initially and the bastards were soaked. Worth another try though. This time, more towels!
First I need to go and take back my two week old starter. It had a hard life,lol. It quit working last night. This is number 3 or 4 since June. :doh: gotta love oreillys in the last two years...parts got super.crappy.
First I need to go and take back my two week old starter. It had a hard life,lol. It quit working last night. This is number 3 or 4 since June. :doh: gotta love oreillys in the last two years...parts got super.crappy.
Milford
New member
Get a Ford OEM. I have had horrible luck with autozone starters. 2 in 4 months and I said screw em. Got a Ford one and its been going for 4 years now.
$400=no thanks.
You can buy the mitsu starters for 260 w/o the stupid motorcraft sticker on it. I returned mine, gave em ten more dollars and got a brand new mitsu.
If this doesnt work Ill buy one from mean green, dc electrics, or have a local guy just build me.a starter to.certain specs.
You can buy the mitsu starters for 260 w/o the stupid motorcraft sticker on it. I returned mine, gave em ten more dollars and got a brand new mitsu.
If this doesnt work Ill buy one from mean green, dc electrics, or have a local guy just build me.a starter to.certain specs.
Milford
New member
I don't pay the sticker prices per say on Ford OEM stuff. My pops is a mechanic at the local dealer so everything is at cost.
Turbo Man
New member
I have a dealer account also, Ford dealer parts are not much if any more than the average auto part store. OEM for me.
Milford
New member
LOL if you were in my area of the country I would say let me know what you need. You could go visit my dad and he would get you whatever you need.
JSchuricht
Member
You should look into Denso starters. They are supposed to last a long time.
old man dave
New member
Places like RockAuto.com sell Motorcraft for good prices. Also Amazon works, too.
You can get an additional 5% off at RockAuto by going to retailmenot.com and finding out the current discount code and entering it into the "How did you hear about us" box at checkout.
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