Stainless steel injector cups
- Thread starter KBMKVIII
- Start date
J98
Active member
Nick introduced it here a few years back.
Maryland dieselnick
Member
Thank you Tomlin.
I did in fact, be the one who jumped into the then understood situation.
My at the time with over 3 decades of experience over top of a degree from a place in Cambridge Massachusetts. I resolved the then “ misunderstood by some/ issue that was hoped to be an offset #s play out with production.
Reality came down to on average .001-..002 difference in exhaust valve stem to exhaust valve guide clearance that made the difference between one truck or another. I was brought in after identifying the stem expansion/stiction issue. It became Oh S…! Well how can we do it on the cheap. Mmnnn.. No. You will not. We are accountable to the bean counters. We will try a flash that will not make the regen not as hot. Ok, will work for a few but it will not work across the board. Will not resold complete issue. It’s too tight. Well.. they tried a few different reflashes. Then it came back to the same. We are not going to have dealers sending heads out to bore open and try to bellmouth exhaust valve guides. Stick with the reflash and one comes back, they get the new heads, now with more stem to guide clearance to allow for the exhaust stem expansion during the blast furnace effect while open and not in it’s guide that would “ normally” act as a heat sink.
As to Corey, the president of CNC Fabrication, which I have no affiliation with, I have watched that man grow that business from its infancy to what it is now with total knowledge of every aspect, honesty, truth and hard work. Frankly that means a very good bit.
I did in fact, be the one who jumped into the then understood situation.
My at the time with over 3 decades of experience over top of a degree from a place in Cambridge Massachusetts. I resolved the then “ misunderstood by some/ issue that was hoped to be an offset #s play out with production.
Reality came down to on average .001-..002 difference in exhaust valve stem to exhaust valve guide clearance that made the difference between one truck or another. I was brought in after identifying the stem expansion/stiction issue. It became Oh S…! Well how can we do it on the cheap. Mmnnn.. No. You will not. We are accountable to the bean counters. We will try a flash that will not make the regen not as hot. Ok, will work for a few but it will not work across the board. Will not resold complete issue. It’s too tight. Well.. they tried a few different reflashes. Then it came back to the same. We are not going to have dealers sending heads out to bore open and try to bellmouth exhaust valve guides. Stick with the reflash and one comes back, they get the new heads, now with more stem to guide clearance to allow for the exhaust stem expansion during the blast furnace effect while open and not in it’s guide that would “ normally” act as a heat sink.
As to Corey, the president of CNC Fabrication, which I have no affiliation with, I have watched that man grow that business from its infancy to what it is now with total knowledge of every aspect, honesty, truth and hard work. Frankly that means a very good bit.
ghohouston
Active member
Aren't 6.0 injector cups steel? Not sure if they're stainless steel or not, but they're definitely not brass like 7.3's. I've worked on hundreds of 6.0's and 7.3's and only ever seen cup failure on brass 7.3 cups.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Well-known member
Yes, I believe they are steel. Dought they are stainless, just hard steel. Never tested one with a magnet though.
ghohouston
Active member
I'm no metalurgist, nor am I anything more than a mechanic lol, but I really don't see why the steel ones wouldn't hold up. Again, only ever seen the brass cups crack. Every 6.0 I've ever seen put fuel in the coolant ended up being cracked heads.
Petro
Well-known member
Same here. Have yet to see a 6.0 cup failure but have replaced several heads that cracked right above the cup in the Injector bore. Never thought to check the cup material in a 6 leaker either.
ghohouston
Active member
Exactly
Maryland dieselnick
Member
There was a reason why International chose to use brass with the 444 while inter-lapping years with the 466.
The wisdom there was????
It was just that… WISE.
Think….
Don’t a guesser. Look to science. It will bring you to the next level.
Do not present the question here looking for a quick answer. Go back into the books. Educate yourself as to why.
Always ask WHY WHY.
Often you will find the answers and become stronger in knowledge.
Go forth in research grasshoppers.
The wisdom there was????
It was just that… WISE.
Think….
Don’t a guesser. Look to science. It will bring you to the next level.
Do not present the question here looking for a quick answer. Go back into the books. Educate yourself as to why.
Always ask WHY WHY.
Often you will find the answers and become stronger in knowledge.
Go forth in research grasshoppers.
hucorey
Member
Nearly all diesels use stainless cups (including the 6.0)....BUT you need to use special tooling to "roll them in" as we engine builders/engine machinists call it on the larger cups like a 7.3. Most people are not going to buy the $2000 in proper tooling from Irontite to do it, so hence why I highly recommend go with tried and true brass cups specifically on the 7.3.
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ghohouston
Active member
Would what you refer to be a "swedging" tool? Our Hino engine excavators at work have had some cup issues and we had to buy a "swedging" tool to replace them.
Petro
Well-known member
Thanks for actually answering the questions and not typing out multiple useless paragraphs bragging about how intelligent you are and how much experience you have. Much appreciated.
PSD POWER007
Member
I installed RiffRaff stainless cup in my 7.3 a couple hundred thousand miles ago. I own the RR injector cup tool for removing/installing. I’ve never had a problem. I tow all the time fairly heavy too. Just my $0.1/2
Maryland dieselnick
Member
That is a lot of miles in a relatively short amount of time. Have you always driven that many miles? Did you buy the truck when it was new? How many miles are on it now?
hucorey
Member
Here's a YouTube video from Irontite for one of these tools. We have nearly all variations because we do so many different engines.
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Maryland dieselnick
Member
That’s a lot of tooling for $2k when compared to that cutting bit and fixture to oversized bore transmission pump bores, from Sonnax which is also $2k.
Frickin’ tool makers getting together in Las Vegas, dining, getting drunk and collectively conspiring and market price fixing!!!
The Horror!!!
Frickin’ tool makers getting together in Las Vegas, dining, getting drunk and collectively conspiring and market price fixing!!!
The Horror!!!
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Thank you for the explanation as to why other than your ive built a gazillion things and you're a god to engines. Lmao! I do trust your word as well as you have been around for a long time. But in also know that clay will drop a product in a hurry if there are failures or issues with it. Not just keep selling the product because its the next best thing.
Maryland dieselnick
Member
From what I got from what the guy in the video was saying that the tool is needed to roll it into a serrated section the cup goes into the head.
While the 7.3 head has no serrated section in the head, International chose to use brass for that engine.
Their are thermal dynamic differences between brass and stainless. How much that played into their decision, I do not know. What I do know with regards to something that could dramatically negatively effect thermal dynamics is; on Riff Raff’s ( quite the name) website states that it is thicker in a section and makes it stronger. That’s a real issue. They also push their tool kit stating the traditional tap style removal tool sends brass shavings down into the cylinders. If you drop a dime down into the cup before using a tap type removal tool, that DOES NOT HAPPEN.
I’ve come behind a lot of DIYers that did cups with Riff Raff removal installation tools. The crank down process did not always completely seat the cup as it is hard to tell if it’s completely seated even when using a torque wrench as drag going in will vary with cups and bores. If you use the Rosewood Style driver, you hear and feel the thud of the cup bottoming out
While the 7.3 head has no serrated section in the head, International chose to use brass for that engine.
Their are thermal dynamic differences between brass and stainless. How much that played into their decision, I do not know. What I do know with regards to something that could dramatically negatively effect thermal dynamics is; on Riff Raff’s ( quite the name) website states that it is thicker in a section and makes it stronger. That’s a real issue. They also push their tool kit stating the traditional tap style removal tool sends brass shavings down into the cylinders. If you drop a dime down into the cup before using a tap type removal tool, that DOES NOT HAPPEN.
I’ve come behind a lot of DIYers that did cups with Riff Raff removal installation tools. The crank down process did not always completely seat the cup as it is hard to tell if it’s completely seated even when using a torque wrench as drag going in will vary with cups and bores. If you use the Rosewood Style driver, you hear and feel the thud of the cup bottoming out
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