Started my sub box build

[WHY NOT]

Looks good but you should have the fuse under the hood as close to the battery as possibly. The main reason for it is in-case the power wire were to somehow ground out, the fuse will blow and keep from shorting everything out. With having it by the amp, the only thing you are saving is the amp. Just my 2c

No worries like jdc mentioned there is one under the hood by the battery as well.

Looks great in there, and nice touches on the wiring too.

Gotta trade some form for function, but it must be a pain to tune that amp installed like that, but it certainly looks better where it is. Once it's tuned you shouldn't have to touch it again.

For the tuning, I would start with getting the sub blended in output wise by adjusting the gain by ear to where it sounds right.

Then I would leave the "infrasonic" filter off, only really needed on a ported box, or a large sealed. If you hear the sub bottoming out, or sounding slopping with really deep notes, you could flip this on to see if that clears it up.

For the "Freq hrz" knob I would start about half way up (around 100hz) and then slowly work it down to you liking, or maybe turn it up (always in small increments) to see if it helps fill in where the mid range speakers are lacking.


Tuning can be tricky mostly in a patience sense, but its nice when you finally get it dialed in. You want to make small changes, then listen, then small changes, and listen, and you don't want to change more than 1 aspect at a time either.




Yup!! I forgot earlier, this amp actually doesn't have any internal fuses. So there is a fuse holder up under the hood (the one he said that the clips broke on) and then the fuse pictures above the amp. Sucks having to run a pair of external fuses like this, but better safe than sorry, 1 under the hood to protect the truck from burning up, and one by the amp to protect the amp.

I can just barley get a small flat blade screwdriver under the amp to tune it so it isn't to horrible. I have it pretty close to what you said on tuning. I looked up on crutchfield's website on how to do it earlier. I think I have the Freq turned up just a little to high though since it is getting just a little to much mid range in it, and I need to turn the filter off too. I will adjust it more when I have more time to listen to a few different types of music as well.

So far I like how it sounds besides the few adjustments that need to be made and the pop on turnoff. It doesn't shake the crap out of everything in the cab, but when it hits it thumps your head pretty good.

Jdc753, thank you very much for all your help choosing the components and helping steer me in the correct direction for what I needed.

 

[jdc753]

Jdc753, thank you very much for all your help choosing the components and helping steer me in the correct direction for what I needed.

Always glad to help, and all the better when people are happy with their final product!!


Best of luck with the tuning, it does take some time to get it all tweaked up right but will be well worth it. Taking off that filter will let the sub "roll off" naturally and play a more freely down low.


Best of all now you can fold down the seat and wow some people and to top it off, tell em you built it yourself.

 

[fordfreak4life]

Op: could u send me the dimensions on that box please?

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WHY NOT]

Ok there are 4 main sections of it I will start with the drivers side
height 16.5" top is 3.25" bottom 6.25" and it was 17.5" wide
Next under the seat belt. height 7.5" tall bottom was 6.25"" and it was 9" wide
Next was between the slider and seat belt. it is the same as the first section but only 8" wide
Next under the power slider. height is 11" bottom was 6.25" and it was 12.5" wide
Total box length was 47"

The amp rack was a solid piece with the back of the box measuring 60" wide. The rack it self is 15" tall and 13" wide

You will have to cut the lower part of the carpet and the lower part of the seat belt cover to get it to fit. Hope those are understandable.

 

[fordfreak4life]

Ok there are 4 main sections of it I will start with the drivers side
height 16.5" top is 3.25" bottom 6.25" and it was 17.5" wide
Next under the seat belt. height 7.5" tall bottom was 6.25"" and it was 9" wide
Next was between the slider and seat belt. it is the same as the first section but only 8" wide
Next under the power slider. height is 11" bottom was 6.25" and it was 12.5" wide
Total box length was 47"

The amp rack was a solid piece with the back of the box measuring 60" wide. The rack it self is 15" tall and 13" wide

You will have to cut the lower part of the carpet and the lower part of the seat belt cover to get it to fit. Hope those are understandable.

Thank you

Sent from my Milestone X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WHY NOT]

Well I tired putting the 1.5K resistor in today to try and stop the turn off pop and it won't even turn on with it in line. Any other suggestions on how to get it to stop poping after I turn the truck off?

 

[oneturboforme]

thats clean man, your thump sounds like a on/remote wire issue, is this an aftermarket head unit or a stock one? sounds like your head unit is shuting off power to the amp after it shuts off so it dumps the power in the caps to the sub resulting in a pop. search delay circuit you might have to install this if you want to keep you head unit

 

[WHY NOT]

thats clean man, your thump sounds like a on/remote wire issue, is this an aftermarket head unit or a stock one? sounds like your head unit is shuting off power to the amp after it shuts off so it dumps the power in the caps to the sub resulting in a pop. search delay circuit you might have to install this if you want to keep you head unit

It's the stock nav unit. I can tell that the amp is holding power after the stereo shuts off because the light on my remote bass control stays on even for a few seconds after the thump. 10 sec or so after my nav turns off.

I am using a line out converter that has the on off wire built into it to get my signal


It's all about wheel speed and torque.

 

[oneturboforme]

yes the thump is the pre outs dropping before the remote/amp shuts off there are circuits online you can build to keep your preouts/headunit on a little bit longer or you can try a different converter i personally like the PAC. just a suggestion

 

[lincolnlocker]

would it be to hack to put the amp on a toggle switch and shut it off and on when you want?

live life full throttle

 

[WHY NOT]

yes the thump is the pre outs dropping before the remote/amp shuts off there are circuits online you can build to keep your preouts/headunit on a little bit longer or you can try a different converter i personally like the PAC. just a suggestion

I have the PAC soem-t wired in right now which one do you suggest?


It's all about wheel speed and torque.

 

[WHY NOT]

would it be to hack to put the amp on a toggle switch and shut it off and on when you want?

live life full throttle

I could wire it to an up fitter switch and it would probably work well but I would much rather not have to remember about an extra switch.


It's all about wheel speed and torque.

 

[lincolnlocker]

10-4

live life full throttle

 

[rentstdi]

upfitters are only powered with the key on anyways

 

[oneturboforme]

i was going to suggest that one... you dont by chance have the adjustment on it cranked all the way up do you? maybe thats causing it? i know turning it up will give you greater signal strength but sometimes it causes issues

 

[WHY NOT]

I will have to check it out and try turning them down a bit and see if that will help

 

[WoodBoy]

Did you unhook the factory amp?

 

[WHY NOT]

Did you unhook the factory amp?

the factory sub amp yes. The other amp I have the speakers wired after for the signal since thats what I was told to do. Trucks with nav systems have a factory amp for the speakers. I will try turning down the output of the LOC but I doubt that will help. Maybe I should try wiring before the factory amp? (between the amp and head unit, not the amp and speakers)

 

[oneturboforme]

if im not mistaken i think you can buy an aftermarket harness that will plug into your oem and head unit and then plug you loc into it. i have wired loc post oem amp and never got a pop...

 

[WHY NOT]

I called PAC audio to get a few ideas. One was to unplug an extra wire that I have going to a ground, and the other was to use the Amp's power and ground wires as the constant power/ ground for the LOC as well. So when I get some time I will try running some jumper wires and try that instead of the ones I have hooked up for the LOC's power and ground right now. So when I get some time I will give that stuff a shot.