Strap/chain procedure

[El chupacabra]

You were born knowing how?? Pretty sure you have to learn at some point.

All I'm sayin is that maybe he should have someone there to help him and show him instead of him reading on here and dong it wrong and hurting himself or someone else.

-Jake-

 

[Spindrift]

Jake...if you were truly exhibiting concern for my safety then I'm appreciative. In my time, I've hauled millions of pounds of cargo, but all skid/frame mounted. I simply want to make sure that by adding variables like tires and axles I don't damage anything.

 

[B.Warning]

It doesn't take a expert to answer the question. IMO alot of people go way over board. Use a good 3/8 chain with rachet binders throw them over the axles but watch out for track bar, sway bar, brake lines. I normally anchor about 3ft in front and behind the axles. Bind them down and be done with it.

I've hauled stuff all over the country like that, been rear ended with a trailer in tow, been hit in the side and pushed off into a ditch and never lost a truck. Didn't even move on the trailer. It its only a 8k lb truck, I haul my 55k lb excavator, and dozer all the time with 3 chains. Its about chain placement more than anything.

If you want to throw 4 chains and binders to secure a ex go for it, but I damn sure don't when I know for a fact 2 works. Now if your using straps, I'd use 4 and cross them front to back.

:whs:

You don't need to over kill it, just take the time to do it right. Just need 2 good chains, 2 ratcheting chain binders & a few little nylon axle straps to go around the axles & secure the chains to. I've used the flip/boomer style chain binders too in conjunction with the ratcheting binders to take some of the slack up. Check every time you stop for fuel & haul on your merry way.

All you need to know when it comes to hauling a truck is right here in these to post's. There is also no need to air the tires down, all that does is become a pain in the a$$. Also more work on your part.

Like what has been said at the beginning of this thread, everyone has a different way they were taught. Some people like extravagant styles, example....4 chains, 4 binders, in a X pattern, with straps to tie down the frame to keep the suspension from moving, oh and can't forget the fancy knots for the excess strap. Yes that works great. More power to them if they want to do that and take 45min to tie down a truck. I'm not saying anything is wrong with doing it that way. Just not for me.

In my field of work time is money. The longer it takes me to chain something down the less money I make and the longer it takes me to get to the next job. I live by the K.I.S.S method. Keep it simple stupid.

2 grade 80 3/8 chains and 2 rachet binders. Is my way. Some may not approve of it but it works and the d.o.t don't say anything.

 

[TrailerHauler]

There's so many ways to tie down vehicles, its all about what works best for you, and what your most comfortable with. Some like to strap the vehicle to the trailer by the body/ frame so the suspension can not travel, and some like to strap down by the tires/ wheels, or axles so that the suspension can travel. Usually whenever I move these trucks I'm comfortable with a chain around the front and rear axle with a binder on each. If I'm going a long distance or feel its necessary, sometimes I'll make sure each corner has a chain and binder. Same goes for straps, when I'm using ratchet straps I like to put one on each corner because they do stretch a bit. Another option that a lot of people don't like, but can be used as well are the wheel straps. Most auto transporters use wheel straps, and I've used them a handful of times. I don't prefer these straps on anything but cars and smaller vehicles mostly because on bigger vehicles like our trucks there are much better alternatives such as strapping the axles/ frame to the trailer.

Here's a couple pictures.
This truck I put a chain and binder on each tow hook up front, and one around the hitch receiver in the rear.

This truck is hard to see, but this one had a chain and binder around the front and rear axles.

And here's the best picture I have of strapping the tires. Another method I like to use mostly with smaller vehicles. Straps around the rear wheels, and usually the front wheels but the control arms were easier with this one.

 

[Spindrift]

:toast: Thanks.

 

[Milford]

Where are you guys getting these straps rated at 10-15k??? I pull a flatbed and a stepdeck and my 4"straps are rated at 5400lbs for the working load limit. Those aren't on ratchet binders either, those are on winches. As for how to secure this, 4 straps minimum or 3 chains
X the rear and put 1 in the front in a U from each side of the trailer. Pretty easy really and remember you can never have enough securement. Put as much on to make you feel comfortable. Use atleast 3/8" chain grade 70.

 

[Milford]

Thanks trailer hauler lol I only have pictures of big dozers and tractors amd stuff no cars or trucks.

 

[nitrogen here 2]

one thing to keep in mind, if you tie down around the axles, the wheel bearing are not loaded. as a result they can sort of vibrate in place. in the long run this leads to a bearing failure called brinneling. in my mind if there are good solid points on the frame that is a better choice, but better solidly around the axle than poorly on the frame.more than a few guys suggesting 3 point tie down, you can get away with it but 4 is more correct, and if things go sideways for any reason you will never find yourself wishing you had used less straps.

 

[Milford]

If you secure it properly your going to put load on the wheel bearings. You should be able to pull that vehicle down and the tires will pancake out some what which is going to put some load on them. It can be done if properly secured. Ive made loaders go from being 14' tall and pulled them to 13'8". Your loading the bearings doing that.

 

[nitrogen here 2]

yup you're right. for some dumb reason i was thinking it was the same as just tying down the wheels. definitely if you tie down on the frame you have to load the suspension enough that the straps don't fall off if you hit a bump

 

[7.3 rocket]

yup you're right. for some dumb reason i was thinking it was the same as just tying down the wheels. definitely if you tie down on the frame you have to load the suspension enough that the straps don't fall off if you hit a bump

A bungee cord stretched tight, hooked to the chain on either side of the binder should keep your tie downs from falling off but at that point why not just secure it below the suspension and not worry about it.

 

[nitrogen here 2]

generally the higher up you can tie down, the more downforce you can generate. likewise if the suspension is pulled down the less it can bounce around. if it bounces around it can make the trailer less stable

 

[slowstroke]

There's so many ways to tie down vehicles, its all about what works best for you, and what your most comfortable with. Some like to strap the vehicle to the trailer by the body/ frame so the suspension can not travel, and some like to strap down by the tires/ wheels, or axles so that the suspension can travel. Usually whenever I move these trucks I'm comfortable with a chain around the front and rear axle with a binder on each. If I'm going a long distance or feel its necessary, sometimes I'll make sure each corner has a chain and binder. Same goes for straps, when I'm using ratchet straps I like to put one on each corner because they do stretch a bit. Another option that a lot of people don't like, but can be used as well are the wheel straps. Most auto transporters use wheel straps, and I've used them a handful of times. I don't prefer these straps on anything but cars and smaller vehicles mostly because on bigger vehicles like our trucks there are much better alternatives such as strapping the axles/ frame to the trailer.

Here's a couple pictures.
This truck I put a chain and binder on each tow hook up front, and one around the hitch receiver in the rear.

This truck is hard to see, but this one had a chain and binder around the front and rear axles.

And here's the best picture I have of strapping the tires. Another method I like to use mostly with smaller vehicles. Straps around the rear wheels, and usually the front wheels but the control arms were easier with this one.

Where are your DOT#'s & MC #s? lol

 

[TrailerHauler]

Where are your DOT#'s & MC #s? lol

LOL If I were hauling on a regular basis, and "for hire" they would be on the truck. I unfortunately can't do that though, those are all either friends or friends of friends I'm moving the vehicles for.

 

[Spindrift]

Neutral or Park? Any adjustment to tire air pressure?

 

[TrailerHauler]

I use park, and the parking break most times. And don't mess with tire pressure unless there's a flat I suppose.

 

[littleredstroker]

Only time I've messed with pressures is to clear a bridge, dropped truck tires and trailer tires and lost maybe a foot. Cleared bridge but a ****hair

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

 

[03f3507.3]

4 chains, 4 binders is how we pulled our puller around... 2 around the rear axle, then a chain around the top of each leaf pack up front...

 

[sniper_101]

I realize this is a near-dead thread, but what the hell. After 3 years of short haul flat-decking everything from boats on trailers, dozers, snowmobiles and stoves, growing up and still working on the farm, and having family in the trucking and towing business, I always attach to axles/non-suspended-secure points whenever possible. Tire straps are my #2 choice (depending on vehicle), and of course to frame being the last option, but sometimes necessary depending on options/load.

X-tying with binders will always be my preferred method, if applicable. Good quality straps/ratchet straps are worth their weight in gold for certain conditions though, more so with non-vehicle loads however. Just my preference and experience having never had anything left on the road, lol. Always standing back and thinking "How can I secure this so if I roll over, it's still in the same place?" will go a long way towards safety for everyone on the road.

Enough quality chain, binders and rebar wire and a person can move the world, lol.

 

[Spindrift]

Just got back from towing the Ex 850 miles. I used chains around the front and rear pumpkins, crisscrossed. Checked the load at every stop I made. Needed to tighten one chain, one link over the entire trip. Thanks everyone for your input and making it a safe tow.