Street truck wanna-be

[Jordan8505]

First off, this is my first powerstroke so I am learning along the way. After 3 cummins powered trucks this is a change. The truck is a 2005 f350 and my goal is to make a streetable, 4 digit 6.0, that will run...

First thing I'm going through is the suspension and steering. I'm going to be removing all the front suspension, replacing joints, hubs, etc. Cleaning up and painting and upgrading to ss brake lines, powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and brakes, 4400# springs, qa1 dual adjustable shocks, and 4 link.

 

[Jordan8505]

Beginning state of the truck

 

[Harley-6.4]

Congrats and Welcome. I love the super-crew in white one of my favorite combinations. When upgrading the suspension and steering, I would run the redhead steering gearbox. I had the gearbox on my 6.4, and it drove better than my wife’s Mercedes. It’s more expensive than oem reman but it’s well worth the money.

 

[Jordan8505]

Congrats and Welcome. I love the super-crew in white one of my favorite combinations. When upgrading the suspension and steering, I would run the redhead steering gearbox. I had the gearbox on my 6.4, and it drove better than my wife’s Mercedes. It’s more expensive than oem reman but it’s well worth the money.

Thank you! I'll add it to my list, I've heard its the way to go if your getting a new one.

 

[Jordan8505]

Getting everything taken apart and ready to be cleaned and painted. New hubs and ball joints are in and ready to be replaced.

 

[Jordan8505]

I believe the shocks were ready to be replaced...

 

[blacksmoke.r.us]

I have a 6.0 that should make 4 digit hp that I will sell for half of what its going to cost you to build yours.

 

[Jordan8505]

I have a 6.0 that should make 4 digit hp that I will sell for half of what its going to cost you to build yours.

Cool, but I'm not worried about the cost and enjoy building my own stuff. If I wanted to save money and labor to go fast I would just buy a new sports car.

 

[Jordan8505]

Ditched the 5200# springs and got the new 4400# springs in.

 

[Cloverleaffarm]

you'll get more attention here than Comp D.

 

[Jordan8505]

I was hoping so, I could see i wasn't really getting any response what so ever. I'm hoping it will be a pretty involved thread once it gets a little more exciting. It may take some time but I've already have more attention than I have there.

 

[Jordan8505]

Its been a while, I've been busy but got the front axle completely unattached except for driveshaft, would of gotten done sooner to if it wasnt for my lack of motive to go get the socket I needed to finish. I started thinking, raise the front end and its good to put in new caster shims to get everything back aligned, so would it be good to go the opposite way after lowering the front end? I know carli has 2* shims for raising, but would there be something like a -2* shim for lowering a couple inches? Just a thought

 

[sootie]

Watch the caster on the front when you go down. Too much can cause death wobble. You may need alignment cams for the ball joints.

For the rear, when you remove the block, it may still require a 2* shim so the pinion isn't pointed at the ground.

 

[Jordan8505]

I'm just doing the 4400# springs and I haven't seen anyone use a new caster shim, but I'm not just doing it for looks and I want to make sure its correct before I send it down the 1/4 mile. I just haven't seen a "negative degree" caster if thats what I would even need, just guessing since like I said carli gives you a positive 2* shim when lifting the truck, so just wondering.

 

[Jordan8505]

got the axle pulled out, I soaked in purple power and power washed then toom it down to our garage where I started descaling the rust. Still had to get the track bar ball joint out and its seized worse than the pitman arm was on my 85 chevy when it had been on there for over 20 years. The actual ball joint came out because it busted out the bottom of joint and fell out leaving the outside stuck in the axle. Any suggestions on getting it out? Once I get it out and the axle prepared ill be doing chassis saver in aluminum and then top coating in an acrylic enamel, im thinking of going with either krylon farm and implement paint or duplicator engine paint. I used the engine paint to paint diff covers, traction bars and such on my other trucks for a cheap bit of color and it was pretty durable and never had any oxidation.

 

[Jordan8505]

 

[Jordan8505]

Still could not get the outside of the ball joint to come out, I guess ill post in another topic to see if I can get some help on that. I'm kind of on hold til I can get that figured out. Its turning into a pia and its ticking me off.

But I also picked up a couple colors I like that I'll be using to paint the axles, frame, etc. The truck will stay white but im still not sure on which color to go with. Hopefully it will get to painting before to long.

 

[Jordan8505]

http://imgur.com/gallery/z04OZkf

 

[Jordan8505]

http://imgur.com/gallery/7SdCpO5

 

[6.0 Tech]

For the ball joint, use an air hammer to crush the sides of it and then push it thru the tube using the air hammer. Had quite a few do that to me, and while it does take extra time, the air hammer typically does the trick. Just be careful not to **** up the housing

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