Strongest T clamps?

[TARM]

Would the Miklor's offer the strongest even clamping force highest quailty?

Then there are the Virbants that also seem to be made well

Then you have the ones like Turbo Hose R&D has with the heavy duty springs

A few others.

Of all of them the ones I have heard the best things as far as clamping force and quailty of build has been the Miklors W4 W5 series

Wanted to see what others thought, had experience with etc...

Miklor's High Pressusre HEavy Duty Clamps

Turbo Hose R&D Super Heavy Duty Spring T bolt Clamps

Vibrant Heavy Duty T bolt Clamp


I am leaning toward the Miklors so far. One of the specs I saw posted in a forum was the 3" W5 had a 30 BAR rating on sealing force. That's 435PSI !!!

I would much rather only have to single clamp if possible rather than run a cheaper bolt and double clamp everything and end up dealing with stripped bolts and bend clamps etc..

Frankly I loth worm clamps so much I plan to swap out every one on the motor.

 

[Lowdown89]

I used the clamps from turbohoses.com on my old supercharged mustang and they held very nice, of course I didn't see anywhere near as much boost as what you would see... Looking at the miklor's they look super nice and if i had something that needed that much of a clamp I would go with them...

 

[uncool]

The ford clamps are pretty tough to beat. I have all the original ones still from the day the truck was built.

I even run a factory blue boot and it has seen 60+ psi with no failures.

 

[TARM]

LowDown,

Thanks. Those were the two that looked good to me as well. I felt the same way after reading up on the Miklor's. I have found the W4 versions for about the same price as vibrant and turbohoses. But I have to say they add up when you are swapping out even just all the turbo intercooler intakes ones. What is it, 11-15 depending.

Wow Uncool you are giving me hope. I will likely not be pushing over 60 psi closer to 50-55 if I am paying attention like I should.

When I was cleaning everything up those blue hose were so soft and pliable I just figured they would be blowing off sooner or later. I have all the stock clamps as well but ended up with extra joint or two requiring clamps.

I know for sure I hate worm clamps for anything. I have had it happen one to many times where I was trying to service something last minute or on the side of the road etc... Had to mess with a worm clamp and had the thing strip out or just fall apart. SO I will be swapping out any of those I possibly can for higher quailty clamps like these.

 

[cowboy_dan]

Frankly I loth worm clamps so much I plan to swap out every one on the motor.

If you can get them in the correct size, fuel injector hose clamps are one of my new friends. They use a captive nut with a bolt, and it works sooo much better than a worm clamp. Not as much range as a worm clamp, but it clamps oh so very much better.

 

[TARM]

For the small hoses that would be perfect

 

[racehauler]

I have some of the Vibrant clamps and can't say I'm too impressed. I would use the stock clamps if they are in good working order or if you don't mind spending a little money buy the boots and clamps from Dieselsite. I thought they were way too much money but my Dad bought a set for his F-550 and I must say the setup is the best I've personally seen.

 

[TARM]

Good to know thank you.

I have found that if you are not routing the CCV into the intake that Big Rig rad hose is as tough as it comes and works very well. It also is about $40-$50 to do the whole engine.

I will look into the clamps he sells.

 

[Rodslinger]

Check out Frozenboost.com. Get all my stuff from them.

 

[TARM]

will do

thanks

 

[V-Ref]

4 x Clampco's on every boot and Flexfab 5513 hose has held 55+ psi. Tried 2 clamps at every junction...and ended up putting 4 clamps..... Single clamps didn't cut it. It is a PITA. Not sure how the Clampcos measure up to the clamps you listed. As much gumption I've put to mine, I'd be afraid of warping the plenum, IC tubing, the IC itself...so not sure additional clamping force is the answer. My humble 2 pennies.

 

[TARM]

I think I have noticed a number of people using clampco brand. I assume / hope that means they are good. In looking I have not seen anything bad about them.

V-Ref,

How much did they cost roughly per clamp?


I wonder what it is that makes some peoples single clamped hoses to hold up to 60 psi and others have to double clamp to get 50 to hold. I know how tight the big rig radiator hose is to get on the pipes and ports. I also tend to wonder if single clamps while holding as in not blowing off are still actually leaking air when you get up there in pressure?

V-ref,
Didn't you find that you had some hose clamp junction points leaking when you pressurized up hgiher than most recommend but those hoses were not blowing off or the clamps moving? I tend to wonder what we would find if we were able to pressurize our systems to 40,50, 60 psi and then spray all the various joints with say soapy water?

My bet is I think 75% of those that have installed new turbos and systems that required the various clamp and hose seals to be broken would find at least some leakage.

I could be completely way off but I think more people have leaks at pressure than they realize.

 

[V-Ref]

V-Ref,

How much did they cost roughly per clamp?

$3.50 to 5.50 depending on size if I recall correctly. I didn't set out looking for them...Clampco is what Jake sent in my turbo mount kit, and what the local rubber supply store had in stock....

I wonder what it is that makes some peoples single clamped hoses to hold up to 60 psi and others have to double clamp to get 50 to hold. I know how tight the big rig radiator hose is to get on the pipes and ports. I also tend to wonder if single clamps while holding as in not blowing off are still actually leaking air when you get up there in pressure?

I don't know why either....I'm just not at that level yet I guess. I'm real hesitant to latch on to advice on these forums, until I'm sure it's vetted from actual experience anymore. I wonder what single turbo setup is pushing 60+ psi.....I've searched youtube/forums...hard to find a vid of a single pushing 50 psi, let alone 60:lookaround:

V-ref,
Didn't you find that you had some hose clamp junction points leaking when you pressurized up hgiher than most recommend but those hoses were not blowing off or the clamps moving? I tend to wonder what we would find if we were able to pressurize our systems to 40,50, 60 psi and then spray all the various joints with say soapy water?

Yep, I sure did. Turbo picked up some responsiveness as well. I found the weak link to testing the intake side of our turbo systems was a cap/plug that will stay on the compressor housing of the turbo. My shinanagin rigged boost leak tester won't win any appearance points....but it did allow me to test my system for leaks above the commonly recommended 10-15 psi level though. IMHO, this is the recommended max boost testing level, because that's about all a double clamped boost leak detector can grip on the compressor intake housing IME....hence the common thought/recommendation to not test beyond that.

My bet is I think 75% of those that have installed new turbos and systems that required the various clamp and hose seals to be broken would find at least some leakage.

I could be completely way off but I think more people have leaks at pressure than they realize.

I agree. I've even gone so far, as to ask Jake if he'd be up for putting a schrader valve on the intake Y....then a fella could cap off the intake on the compressor housing...and use a buddy/mirror watching the boost gauge....built in leak tester. Just need to build a cap for the compressor intake...

The compound fellas have this all figured out already I imagine...given those boost levels...I'm ASSuming, you'd have to check for leaks at higher than the commonly recommended 10-15 psi levels.
opcorn:

 

[TARM]

notice I did not say that was a good 1:1 ratio 60 psi boost just that people had boost up to that level. You would fit on that list LOL


But I have slowly moved toward your position on being guarded until I have tried or seen it personally in regards to things.

 

[V-Ref]

notice I did not say that was a good 1:1 ratio 60 psi boost just that people had boost up to that level. You would fit on that list LOL

No I didn't mention that at all either...

Back pressure vs boost....I'm the wrong guy to ask about that

But I have slowly moved toward your position on being guarded until I have tried or seen it personally in regards to things.

I'm anxious to see what you come up with to hold your GTX4294R down with...as I'd like the half the number of clamps in my engine compartment too :thumbup:

 

[TARM]

I am thinking I am gonna try the Miklor's Everyplace I check they are named as the best. They are certainly not cheap but end up costing about what two normal T clamps would. They look like they will offer the most even clamping force around the entire tube. I am hoping that will allow for enough tension to hold. The hardware is top end. Over grade 8 on the bolt and nuts. Everything is captured. It can be completely opened to go around a hose already installed. We will see. Fastenal has the W4 instock. I am going to do some more searching to see if I can find a better price then order enough to do it.

As we are both running about the same amount of boost and using the same boot material it should carry over well between us if it works well for me. I am going to make sure everything is super clean and dry for the install so nothing that could be creating a decrease of friction. I tend to wonder if it would not be bad to hit the ends of the tubes and Y with the sand blaster with larger grit to give it a higher friction coefficient. That with the clamps will ensure it has the best opportunity to hold. Then if it doesn't I can say these things need to be double clamped or V banded to reliably hold from engine to engine