Supercharged 7.3

TyCorr

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Ive had my set for over a year already. He was selling way before that.

I need to get my black daily into a position it can be dynoed. Compared to ff 250/2's this truck rips with the same size injectors. The difference was as noticeable as going from a 175/80 to a 250/2.

Same tuning. Definitely different performance.

Im curious as to the answer to Charles question as well.
 

superpsd

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Well I pulled the trigger on the Esab Miniarc 161. I really want the Caddy tig but can't bring myself to pay 5k for a Tig that will get little use at this time. I found a good deal on nozzles now the only thing I am torn on is 100% or 200% nozzles?

For the time being until I build a proper fuel and oil system as well as turbo i will be greatly detuning them anyways.

Also not related to the supercharger but my project as a whole I installed two BMW M3 black leather bucket seats in place of the old creeky stained dirty bench seat.
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superpsd

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One barrel welded up. The lift tig is a little tuff to get the hang of I still want a pedal lol. After plugging the port the plunger still easily slides thru the barrel. I have 11 more I can weld up gives me some error room and I can pick from the best. I do have 200% nozzles for the frankenjectors.
 

superpsd

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Yes the BI split shots. Modified into singles with 200% nozzles. If they actually work that is. I am also finally installing an autometer pyrometer. Still a fuel system. Planning on twin SD pumps. Will start piecing one together soon.
 

superpsd

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One stick of dynomite assembled...progress is slow going when you work 7 days a week lol. I may get these on a flow bench when they are done. Currently talking it over with a local vendor that has a bench. These things sure are fun to put back together...
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superpsd

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Well I've welded a few barrels now. Getting better with every one. All are a go except one is a "not too sure bout that one" I hit it with too much heat and the plunger was very tight until oiling it up and working it down the bore quite a few times. I'll just set that one a side. After pulling injectors out of their shipping boxes I discovered I actually have 14 injectors and one is new. It's tricky welding these with a lift arc machine. I have it down to strike arc, feed the filler fast, one one thousand pull to kill arc and push back in for post flow. Let cool completely on a heat sink and repeat until sealed. I did start ordering parts for E fuel. I purchased Cat 175-2949 water separator for pre pump and the 1R-0750 for post. Still debating over dual SD or A1000?
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superpsd

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Yeah I better stay with the dual SD pumps. It's half the price as well. Filter bases ordered. Going to need lines and fittings and a regulator. Selector valves going in the trash and I'll fab up a large pickup tube. Then likely bigger hpop, studs down the road and a turbo. I'm kind of looking at the S467.7 with a 1.0 or 1.10 housing. From what I have read studs are not a necessity under 500 hp. I likely not be trying to exceed 4-450 to keep old engine/drivetrain parts intact.
 
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ja_cain

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Well I've welded a few barrels now. Getting better with every one. All are a go except one is a "not too sure bout that one" I hit it with too much heat and the plunger was very tight until oiling it up and working it down the bore quite a few times. I'll just set that one a side. After pulling injectors out of their shipping boxes I discovered I actually have 14 injectors and one is new. It's tricky welding these with a lift arc machine. I have it down to strike arc, feed the filler fast, one one thousand pull to kill arc and push back in for post flow. Let cool completely on a heat sink and repeat until sealed. I did start ordering parts for E fuel. I purchased Cat 175-2949 water separator for pre pump and the 1R-0750 for post. Still debating over dual SD or A1000?
IMAG0959_1_zpsxryuvw2k.jpg
Cool. For a chill plate, you want at the very least an aluminum plate or better yet some copper. Steel doesn't have very good thermal conductivity relative to those two materials. I'll show you the one that I use when I get to work today. Also, build yourself a third hand that doubles as a ground like the one Jody uses on WT&T. I couldn't find a good pic of his but here's one with a sliding weight.

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superpsd

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Yeah I didn't have any huge chuncks of aluminum around. The steel plate helps but minimizing the heat with the Welder is helping the most. If I actually had a higher end unit with pedal control this would be a lot easier. For what its worth the chinesse ESAB box ain't too bad for light use. For the ground I was just welding this up with the barrel directly clamped.
 
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superpsd

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Been busy working but I have manage to build 5 sticks and have most of the e fuel parts sitting in a corner. I also went to a shorter belt which worked perfect but the stress took its toll by cracking 2 alternator housings. So I temporarily pulled the blower off and ordered the pulley you see below to give the blower it's own dedicated belt and it's a 9.55" pulley to give me over 4000 more blower rpms @ 3500 rpm.
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superpsd

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Nothing to see here really. Just getting back to this project. I have collected a couple of lathes and one knee mill to help projects along. Started turning the larger crank pulley adapter.
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superpsd

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I put the blower back on. I hate driving this truck without it. Fixed the belt issues. Without the blower it's Smokey and lazy unresponsive until the turbo spools then it finally will start pulling and clean up. With the blower the smoke is gone and as soon as you put your foot down it just snaps to life. I also ditched the mechanical fan and installed an electric fan.

Other than that I am still taking my time to turn the adapter as I rather take my time and get it right. Injectors are almost done. Getting ready to build the fuel system. I am leaving the mechanical fuel in place and adding a SD pump to boost the fuel supply under higher demand and startup. I purchased a SRP1.1 and it is currently at Dyno Proven getting upgraded to a SR pump. The rig needs to stay intact for now as I am going on a hunting trip soon so be out of town for a while. After I get back I need to kick myself into getting all the rest of the parts installed.
 

superpsd

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So under colder conditions I was getting belt slip until the engine warmed a little. So I built an idler to better wrap the blower pulley. Now there is no slip and I also found out that as rpm increased the belt was slipping past the blower pulley. I could never see more than 6 psi (in neutral) for example turning the engine to 3K (in neutral no load) now the blower outputs 12 psi at 3K. I also ditched the small electric fan and went back to manual. Towing it was getting hot and I may find a larger electric fan as I did like the faster warm up with an electric fan. I still need to someday install the honey badger Sr pump and fuel system. Maybe this spring when the weather improves.
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superpsd

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I was running a very small 16" basic fan "very low cfm" Unloaded in mid summer hot rodding around I rarely had to turn the fan on. It did not push enough air for towing. Some on the Ford fans like for the Lincoln Mark 8s have a high cfm fan that I may look at adapting. Granted I am still running the stock tiny injectors. I am still debating with myself as to run my frankenjectors or just buy a set of 160/xx's I am not in a hurry to decided the rig still gets me around just fine everyday and pulled my lightweight camper upper Snoqualmie pass with little effort.
I also rerouted the ccv into the blower inlet in such a way that does not create excessive vaccum. I have a strainer on the ccv line and lose very little oil thru the ccv now and don't have to smell the ccv.
 
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