Sway issues

Dirtclod

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01 f250 cc/ab 4x4.......I went down to SC and picked up my35'pull behind on Christmas Day. Brought it back up to home in NCthe next day and left out for Michigan. That night I had a blow out on front left on my truck. There was a bad spot in the tire. 315/75/16's. Next day I had 4 new 285/75/16's put on. Before I didn't have issues. Cruised through the mtns up to Athens oh where I blew out. After the tires I can't get get sway issue. I'm using an equalizer hitch but only 1 sway bar. After reading a lil realize I need 2. But why such a difference? I've moved everything tithe front of the camper and adjusted height and sway arm. It's a lil better but still aggravating. Today I had new sway control arms put on and drag bar. The bushings were shot. Could it be shocks?
 

dsberman94

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A lot of towing pull behinds is trial and error at first while getting it dialed in. First thing I'd recommend is getting the height of the hitch adjusted at an RV or trailer dealer if you haven't already. They will set it up the way it should be for your truck. Then play with the settings on the load level bar chain links a link or two at a time. We made our cclb level front and back in the amount of room between the top of the tire and the top of the wheel wells. Which, after we loaded the bed of the truck with supplies, actually lifted it back up a bit by shifting more weight to the trailer. Changed a chain link or two for more weight on the truck depending on if the roads were wet or not. Rear Tires were at max psi when towing on stock size E rated tires.

Tow it when you're trying to set up the links and pressures the same way you'll tow every time you tow. Don't move weight around inside to try to make it better, leave it as close to the same as you can every time. 35' is a big beast for a tow behind.

Using only one bar is basically only removing weight from half the load. Both bars will even it out like it should. Play with the weight your putting on the hitch after your tire pressures are set. If the front is floating over bumps, too much weight on the back of the truck, back the bars off a chain link. But don't take so much off that your going to lose traction if you have to slam the brakes. It'll take some time but you'll find it eventually. Don't be afraid to stop to make a change to the bars either. Once you figure it all out, write it down or memorize it depending on conditions.
 
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Zmann

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if I comprehend this 'your sway was introduced when you put new tires on and was not an issue before ?

some tires in some sizes have what is called new tire squirm ( Duratracs for one ) and it usually wears off after a few hundred miles
what brand tire and load range did u buy ?
 

Zmann

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Firestone makes a lot of tires and uses many names

i would google the style you bought and see if you can find any comments on the sway / squirm issue or call the place you bought them and ask their opinion

if this is a tire issue

i have seen some folks return tires for this issue and others just ride it out until they behave better with some wear
 

uncool

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My Cooper A/T 3's in that same size did that for about the first 1000 miles. I ran a bit more pressure in them till they settled down.

Felt like driving on ice when I left the tire shop.
 

Dirtclod

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Yes,that's exactly what it was like. My stabilizer may not be working right either. Someone made the insert that goes into the receiver. I'm going by a camper store in a bit and check on a new one
 

Dirtclod

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After I put a level on the trailer I noticed my ball is s good 3" taller than the hitch on the camper. Also my shocks are worn out pretty good. Tractor supply has an insert with adjustable insert that will work. The combination of the 3 was crazy. It's going in the shop for new new shocks,front axle bearings,possibly front hub assembly's and and maybe a steering box. And whatever else it needs up front. Maybe dual steering stabilizers. Thanks for the help guys. I have very little experience hauling long distance. I've hauled stuff locally around where I live but that's it. With the old tires it difhandle the load pretty good. So I would have to say the tires were the biggest contributing factor. I should have well over a 1000 miles before I'll pull it again so hopefully this issue will be fixed!
 

tangoparson

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There's your problem. Ball 3" higher than the tongue. You want the trailer frame level to a couple of degrees low. And the truck about level.

Tongue high in front effectively pulls weight off and moves to the tires even though it has plenty of tongue weight bias if you scale it


Sent from my cheyenne mountain when the NSA wasn't looking.
 

dmd

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I got tired of getting blown around by big rigs and the wind here in Tx. Bought
a Hensley and it is like riding on rails. Have a Reese with all the bells and whistles
in a big box under the work bench. Expensive, yep... But it is stable in all conditions.
 

Dirtclod

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I've been posting on what do you tow? And let's talk hitches. I'll brief on this a little. I left Friday afternoon headed to Ssn Jose CA. I'm pulling my 35' pull behind @10-11k. I'm using a weight distribution hitch and now I'm using 2 friction sway control bars. Hitch and camper hooked up level and latched down. I raise electric jack up about 3" and install weight bars then drop it down. I loose bout 1" in the rear between top of tire and fender. Truck sits slightly down in the rear and trailer is level. Then friction control bars set. Both are tightened about max. If I go over 65 it is still pretty swaying pretty bad. 65 and under its ok. Varsity rucks pass on the left it draws me in a little but sway bars do there job. Passing trucks is still a challenge. I'm running overload springs and I have airbags to install. I want to mount them on the inside of the springs on the axle to frame. I'm wondering if I set it up as I have been doing and use bags to bring up to level will this help at all?
 

lincolnlocker

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I've been posting on what do you tow? And let's talk hitches. I'll brief on this a little. I left Friday afternoon headed to Ssn Jose CA. I'm pulling my 35' pull behind @10-11k. I'm using a weight distribution hitch and now I'm using 2 friction sway control bars. Hitch and camper hooked up level and latched down. I raise electric jack up about 3" and install weight bars then drop it down. I loose bout 1" in the rear between top of tire and fender. Truck sits slightly down in the rear and trailer is level. Then friction control bars set. Both are tightened about max. If I go over 65 it is still pretty swaying pretty bad. 65 and under its ok. Varsity rucks pass on the left it draws me in a little but sway bars do there job. Passing trucks is still a challenge. I'm running overload springs and I have airbags to install. I want to mount them on the inside of the springs on the axle to frame. I'm wondering if I set it up as I have been doing and use bags to bring up to level will this help at all?
that should help but make sure you dont T the airlines together. keep them separate.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
 

Dirtclod

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The airbags I have came off a dodge 3500 so the brackets won't work. I should've fanned some up but it's too late now. Can't find just brackets for salr
 

Dirtclod

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Thanks, I just sent them an email so hopefully they can hook me up. Today we drove across Kansas into Denver and I had no issues. I adjusted my hitch down about an inch. Don't know if that was the reason but at times I forgot it was back there. Power wise, it's got all the power I need.
 

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