i currently run hybrid 205/30's and the sxe 363 bw turbo with .91 exh. with 3.73 gears , 75 mph towing a toyhauler camper loaded to 10,500 lbs works well. infact, towing it empty at 7200 lbs, i leave it in stockish mode w/o issues. the last drive was a 9hr drive to mt rushmore and back in stockish mode.
SXE 363/68/.83 + 200/30 hybrids?
- Thread starter Peroni
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Brett19648
New member
Do you think the 205/30 pair well with the s363? I was originally thinking s364.5, but the more I think about it the s363 may be the most suitable for my needs. Primarily daily driving and occasional towing. Thinking of getting a travel trailer within next couple years so I’d probably be doing one big trip a year.
so there isn't an actual 60 or 80 hp tow tune per say by every tuner. jelibuilt calls his heavy tow and performance tow. stock tunes are not stock , they are stockish. php's 40hp tow tune isn't a 40 hp tow tune that a stock truck would use so it's very hard to answer that question. towing heavy isn't enough info/detail to provide you with any kind of answer. 10500 lbs in a toyhauler ( 30' long, 12'6" tall and 102" wide) at 75 mph has far more wind drag then a flat bed with a skid steer on it or such a loaded item. wind drag will drag you down faster then weight imo. primarily all i tow is a toyhauler but i have towed a 6k lb flat bed , once with a 3500 lb car on it and another time with a 6500 lb suv. i could not tell the difference and considerably easier to tow then the toyhauler! i read people stating they have towed 26k lb loads but they never state what it was so i never know what they are referring too. i find those statements interesting as my 99 f350 4x4 zf6 drw is only rated for 13,500 lbs fifthwheel or gooseneck so not sure how or why one would want to exceed those tow ratings by double. what i can say is that in a 35 mph cross wind, crossing the hills in south dakota or wyoming that with both the sxe 366 and 363 i do not exceed 1200* egts. crossing kansas with ambient temps of 95* and peaking 35 psi boost on the hills in 30 mph gusting winds at 75 mph i never saw more then 1200* egts with the sxe 366. the 366 really shines at 70 mph and up, in my drw, with 3.73's, pulling a toyhauler. a srw with 4.10's would do better but that is just my opinion. the reason i dropped to the sxe 363 was half of my trip to the oklahoma sand dunes with my toyhauler is 65 mph and under. this is a speed that is only 1800 ish rpm in 6th and that 366 was lugging the truck too much where the 363 is happier. with the 366, i had been told to drop a gear to 5th and rev it. 65 mph in 5th is 2600 rpm and not only do i not like holding that rpm for 4 hrs straight but it drinks fuel at that point! if i were spending the majority of my trips on the innerstate at 75 mph then the i would still have the 366, hell if i had 4.10s i would slow down to 70 mph and the 366 would easily carry me at 60/65 mph on the side roads no problem.
if i were to start over, i would buy the 363 version from kc turbo as a drop in and pick some good tunes on stock inj's. i say this based on the e99 turbo mine came with. it performed better then the late 99 turbos except, it ran out of breathe pulling the I80 wyoming hills at 75 mph with the toyhauler in tow. i say this as i had seen 1300 to 1350* for brief moments with the stock turbo and a 80 hp tow tune from jody at dp tuner. brief meaning the last half a mile of the pull up the hill or in heavy winds pulling a shallower grades. had my truck had 4.10 gears rather then 3.73's, i think it would've been spot on especially with a drop in turbo that flowed better. they didn't exist at that time, the 38r and d66 were the popular choices at that time. i bought my truck in early 2012 with 80k on it and just made these changes 5 years ago and now have 142k on it. the stock inj's are quieter and you don't need a tuner to run them. if you are replacing them anyway, then based on my experience.... the sxe 363 is the better choice. i say better choice as i see 5 psi at 1500 rpm where the 366 didn't until 1800 rpm, empty not towing. in stock form, 1 psi at 1200 rpm on data logs with the stock e99 turbo and stock inj's and hpop. on both the sxe 366 and 363, i went with the .91 exh but i believe they have a smaller one. i cannot tell you what would work best for you based on the parameters you listed, all i can state is my experiences based on the details of my truck and loads. i can say that i believe the sxe 363 will make a better daily driver then the sxe 366 and still tow a travel trailer. mine is a manual which seems to behave differently then an auto when it comes to spool time. every shift dumps the drive pressure unlike an auto but, for my application, the benifits of the manual out weigh the auto, imo. the hybrid 205/30s should work well with a healthy stock hpop which is why i went that route initially as that is what i was told they were designed for by two diff inj's builders. after the order shipped i thought to myself, i already spent this much whats an other $600 at this point, and i ordered the adrenaline hpop. i wish there was someone that perfromed live tuning in my area to get the tunes right where i want them for my application.
i know thats not the answer you were wanting but i cannot answer your question with out knowing the details of your truck. once i altered my truck, it has been one challenge after another. you have to understand that i only use this truck for towing. i only put 5 to 7k miles a year on it, otherwise its parked inside a building. this is why it has taken 5 years to sort these issues out and still on going. do not buy injectors from a ( based on my experience ) shaudy company like full force diesel! bitteroot diesel or rosewood would be the only places i would buy from, as they actually flow test their inj's, provide you with the data sheet and stand behind them. ffd did not on either fronts and i had 4 out of 8 very very poor inj's. they kept telling me it wasn't their inj's as they test them before they leave but could not/would not provide a data sheet on the actual testing. the tuners kept telling me it was my truck as i couldn't get it to idle as i thought it should and a couple of performance concerns. i finally made a switch box to test the inj's an found 4 very weak ones but out of warranty at that point. each set of tunes will effect the idle and performance differently, in fact each set of tunes from each different tuner do as well. i say that as the switch box was the only way to test the contribution ( at idle) of each inj as they buzz tested fine which is only the electrical side. i say this as i clearly never was able to give the 366 a fair chance with 4 out of 8 "fresh" bad inj's from ffd
not knowing that, i swapped to the sxe363 and it was definately better but still not what i thought it should be, so i built the inj switch box. out of the 3 tuners i bought tunes from, i kept the php and jelibuilt and deleted the 1023 as they weren't useable. for myself, it was next to impossible to get revisions from dusty as well. jelibuilt only gave a 30 day revision policy but it took him 2 weeks for one set of revisions and then he wanted more money for more revisions and i said no. both tuners basically had to write revisions spec'ing out 205/80 inj's rather then 205/30's to smooth the idle better. i am not a diesel tuner so i will not pretend to know what all that entails or how exaclty that effects the idle or run performance. i just know that it helped the idle quite a bit but wasn't right. i say this as when i swapped to the sxe363 i was still running the existing tunes on the ffd inj's. i started calling around to see who actually flow tests their inj's and found those two companies. i went with bitteroot and bought 8 brand new inj's that they modified to 205/30's and i will never buy remanned again. ffd was an $1800 lesson/mistake, for myself! with the brand new inj's and the sxe 363, i towed the toyhauler to mt rushmore for a trip, still using the existing tunes. they clearly were right for the new inj's but seemed to work ok. i was able to tow up there in stockish mode ( no true stock mode with all the mods), something i had not been able to do since i swapped everything. i have new tunes from aa tuning and really like them. i kept the php tunes in the hydra for comparison and i still have the original pre revision php tunes i might re install to try. i have not towed the toyhauler with the new aa tunes yet but will this summer. didn't get the new aa tunes until after the early may trip to mt rushmore SD last year. didn't get to use the toyhauler for a trip to the sand dunes last summer after a nasty hail storm ripped through and i spent the summer cleaning up the mess.i have had this weird surge at idle since before all the mods. everything i have read has stated the 7.3 has a slight surge at idle so i never worried about it. recently the truck died twice and restarted with out issue which was really weird, has felt a little on the sluggish side for quite some time but with all the changes that is hard to pin point. well in a gasser the tps would be the first thing i would look at for those quirks but not quite the same in this diesel. i finally decided last week that the 23 years tps needed to be replaced just to rule that out and that was definitely an issue! went for a drive and it definitely cured that sluggish feeling and even reduced that idle surge as well as toned down the inj noise. last year with the new inj's, i swapped the idm to the high freq/high voltage from chatanooga diesel tech. i cannot say that it did anything except made the inj's slightly louder. the tps could've had something to do with that. i still have a small exh leak somewhere that developed right before the mt rushmore trip. its annoying as i can smell it inside the cab when the blower fan is on. i will have to pump smoke up the tail pipe to see if i can find it but my gut says it's the right side up pipe. i have the t4 welded kit from irate, so i called to inquire if one can buy just the welded up pipes as they don't list that as a replacement part on their web site. $500 and yes they do sell them separately. i told him why i was inquiring and he asked if i had the first gen as their new design uses a thicker wall tube and braided ss wrapped quality flex joints, of their design rather then the vibrant flex joints and thinner wall tube that must have been farmed out. clearly they had issues with their previous design to make the change and it will cost me another $500 if their pipes have cracked or the flex joints are leaking. so much for one and done. the turbo has to come out to swap them out as the turbo pedastal is one with the pipes. i wrapped them in header wrapped along with the thermal coating before i installed them so no soot trail to be seen. i hope a smoke test reveals the source and if it is an up pipe then that a drive pressure loss that directly effects the turbo and egt's
sooooooo, this is why i say " if i had to do it over again, a drop in turbo in kc turbo, stock inj's and a good set of canned tunes" ........ clearly i am not the person to truly answer that question
i wouldn't want to give bad advice
for a glimpse of the wind drag i speak of......34' fiver toyhauler and the 2k lb toy inside it
current toyhauler and i haul the same toy
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