T4 Downpipe/E4OD front cooler line clearance

[rusty1161]

I did the Irate T4 conversion on my truck and initially had barely adequate clearance at the cooler line. Over time, the cooler line was rubbing the downpipe. Here is my solution while adding 3/8" SD hardlines.

1 - Edelmann #822560 5/16" flare to 3/8" tube elbow. $11 at Amazon
The rest of the parts I had from trying to add the SD 3/8" lines and bypass. The front cooler connection is worse with the SD 3/8" bypass/hardline setup. You do need the rear fitting from the bypass to connect the rear hardline. You also need the aluminum spacers https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2726-4r100-cooler-bypass-******-kit.aspx from Strictly Diesel or another vendor to eliminate the bypass. Clear as mud?

Here is the Edelmann fitting

Here is the fitting installed by itself

A closeup showing the clearance. I may adding an insulating cover for the hose

Here is how I connected to the cutdown hardline

Here is clearance at it's best with the original 5/16" hardline. Overtime the hardline and downpipe would rub

I hope this helps others doing the T4/E4OD swap. I spent a lot of time and too much money getting to this point. This has been the best outcome so far, hopefully it works. I am sure there are other ways to do this. Please share if you have one!

Thanks.

Rusty

 

[zilla68]

AND they say, its your cab bushings!
mine fit like **** also, but my down pipe hit directly in the middle of those lines, and when I asked about it all I got was we haven't heard of any issues.
mine is in the shop getting fixed correctly, but replacing the supposed cab bushings first to see if that was for real or not, but I certainly doubt it.

Irate has great products, but that downpipe SUCKS!!!!!!

 

[rusty1161]

AND they say, its your cab bushings!
mine fit like **** also, but my down pipe hit directly in the middle of those lines, and when I asked about it all I got was we haven't heard of any issues.
mine is in the shop getting fixed correctly, but replacing the supposed cab bushings first to see if that was for real or not, but I certainly doubt it.

Irate has great products, but that downpipe SUCKS!!!!!!

Cab bushings helped me, but these trucks are tight. I wish I had better fab skills, equipment and time.

Rusty

 

[cbuttre835]

Time to resurrect a thread!


How on earth did you clear the firewall for that Irate downpipe?

I have my OBS T4 kit mounted, and can't get the old 3" downpipe between the bellows and the firewall.

The pinch weld area should clear fine... where I'm having issues us directly behind the bellows. I can't get the duck bill or ram in there to bow the firewall back.

I'm contemplating removing the upipes and collector, and getting the hammer in there. Is there anything better?

 

[superpsd]

That or cut out a portion of the firewall and build a sheet metal patch. Some may not want to cut up their cab. I have no issue. I actually use a 4" hole saw and punched a hole at the tightest area from inside the cab and installed a patch plate with sheet metal screws.

 

[cbuttre835]

That or cut out a portion of the firewall and build a sheet metal patch. Some may not want to cut up their cab. I have no issue. I actually use a 4" hole saw and punched a hole at the tightest area from inside the cab and installed a patch plate with sheet metal screws.

How many layers thick is the cab / floorboard? I've got a nice (to me) Lenox 4 1/2 hole saw that I may whup out...

 

[superpsd]

Just the one layer in that area. Plus the insulation on the firewall. gntxc2 went as far as cutting out a good chunk and built a larger tunnel to run a 4" down pipe he built. I run a 3" pipe I built.

 

[5 oh]

I made my tranny lines out of hydraulic hose with 90 degree fittings on the tranny side to clear the down pipe. cooler side I used straight fittings with hose barbs. Works great and you can make them as long or short as you need to route them any which way that works for you.

As for the firewall clearance it was extremely tight on mine too until I had the motor out and I was able to clear out the whole pinch weld and massage the firewall with a hammer now I can pull the pipe right out no issue at all plenty of room, I could probably almost fit a 4 inch in there but never cared to try.