The bed lean

Chris2590 · Aug 1, 2017

Anyone else have the bed leaning to one side? Any idea what it could be? I recently put a new/used axle and new rear shocks on my truck and it's still there -.-
Thanks

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79jasper · Aug 1, 2017

Pretty normal actually. Some say it's the mid-ship fuel tank.
Some have made a small spacer for the leaf Springs.

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Chris2590 · Aug 1, 2017

Ok thanks I never thought about that. It definitely leans towards the side with the front fuel tank. It's not really bad just a little annoying when I look at the back of the truck

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79jasper · Aug 1, 2017

Yep.
After I played with trying to install poly leaf spring bushings (wrong kit, but I already destroyed the old ones lol) it's even more noticeable. At least a solid inch difference.

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Chris2590 · Aug 1, 2017

That sucks.I don't even want to attempt messing with my leaf springs. They're rusted bad! It was hard enough getting the axle U bolts and shock bolts off lol

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rrchlin · Aug 19, 2017

Chris2590 said:
That sucks.I don't even want to attempt messing with my leaf springs. They're rusted bad! It was hard enough getting the axle U bolts and shock bolts off lol

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Really need an impact gun for the springs. My front rears were way rusted and not going to budge no matter what so I cut them during a Dana 60 swap. Don't even want to talk about the shocks lol.. was too tight for the impact gun. Wish I had a ratcheting wrench on me at the time to break.

Now the F350 springs I got I removed 3/4 bolts. 4th bolt I tightened on accident and I think that may have been a problem. Long story short.. I had to use the air hammer as a prybar and 1/2" impact on the bolt at the same time to spin it. WHOOSH.

As for bed lean. Mine have always been broken mounts. Even got a weird stance when my front rad support mounts broke. My drivers side cab mount is broken ATM and that gives it a little lean.

Maybe you mixed up springs on the swap and used 1 old and 1 new??

Chris2590 · Aug 19, 2017

rrchlin said:
Really need an impact gun for the springs. My front rears were way rusted and not going to budge no matter what so I cut them during a Dana 60 swap. Don't even want to talk about the shocks lol.. was too tight for the impact gun. Wish I had a ratcheting wrench on me at the time to break.

Now the F350 springs I got I removed 3/4 bolts. 4th bolt I tightened on accident and I think that may have been a problem. Long story short.. I had to use the air hammer as a prybar and 1/2" impact on the bolt at the same time to spin it. WHOOSH.

As for bed lean. Mine have always been broken mounts. Even got a weird stance when my front rad support mounts broke. My drivers side cab mount is broken ATM and that gives it a little lean.

Maybe you mixed up springs on the swap and used 1 old and 1 new??

Oh yeah I could only imagine how much of a pain it would be. How do you like the Dana 60? I've rebuilt my Dana 50 twin I beam pos twice now in the last two years -.- I probably should of did the swap a long time ago.
I didn't take the leaf springs off. I just took the U bolts off, swapped axles and put new shocks on.
How do you tell if a cab mount is bad? I know where my core support mounts are it's rusted really bad

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rrchlin · Aug 20, 2017

I did not finish it yet lol. I need to put the brake hoses on today and bleed them and get new shocks. But it wasn't difficult and did bolt up. I used an engine hoist to drag the axle around. It is very very heavy.

If you put your foot in the furthest top left hand corner of the drivers side or right top corner on the passengers side.. that's your cab mounts. Look underneath and there will be 2 mounts sort of tangled in together. My mount is good but the floor part rusted out so its sagging down past the bushing.

If you can't tell a difference in height from front passengers to drivers side, it's probably good. Do you get any bump steer or driveability issues? That's why I swapped for a Dana 60. My ttb had bad brakes (rotors, pads), bearings, 4x4 lockout, driveshaft u-joints, driver side shock is completely dead. Id get bad bumpsteer on the drivers side. That wheel has some extra camber but I'm thinking the shock may have played a big part in that.

I got a 1991 Kingpin axle out of a big block 460 dump truck BTW. It has 2 leafs. I did not know but it has smaller brakes. So I needed to get new rotors/calipers. My driveshaft does line up though without swapping the end of the axle where you bolt the driveshaft to. Everything bolted up great (did have to play and loosen bolts to get track bar lined up) Guy cut it off a truck and loaded it into the back of my truck and I had to remove the springs/steering and dually hubs to better move it around.

Also the dana 60 has shorter axle shafts (I believe those are the terms) Where I had 3 splined washers before on the TTB, I left them out so I could fit the c-clip on the end of the 4x4 lockout.

If you or anyone does a dana 60 swap. Do not automatically buy the cheapest axle. If it's missing anything, it could waste a lot of time and cost a lot more $$$. I got a complete axle/springs/steering chopped off a truck for $650. One guy had a nice rebuilt axle all painted. 4.10 to 3.55 gears swapped (knowledgeable guy, I believe he did a good job) but it was missing the u-bolt mount on the drivers side and the trac-bar mount/steering components. He would not budge on $700. Compared to other guys' complete $1,000 axles, the $700 would of cost quite a bit more than $700 to get bolted up.

Also for core supports. I didn't realize mine were broke until after my fan was scraping my fan shroud a bit.

Chris2590 · Aug 20, 2017

rrchlin said:
I did not finish it yet lol. I need to put the brake hoses on today and bleed them and get new shocks. But it wasn't difficult and did bolt up. I used an engine hoist to drag the axle around. It is very very heavy.

If you put your foot in the furthest top left hand corner of the drivers side or right top corner on the passengers side.. that's your cab mounts. Look underneath and there will be 2 mounts sort of tangled in together. My mount is good but the floor part rusted out so its sagging down past the bushing.

If you can't tell a difference in height from front passengers to drivers side, it's probably good. Do you get any bump steer or driveability issues? That's why I swapped for a Dana 60. My ttb had bad brakes (rotors, pads), bearings, 4x4 lockout, driveshaft u-joints, driver side shock is completely dead. Id get bad bumpsteer on the drivers side. That wheel has some extra camber but I'm thinking the shock may have played a big part in that.

I got a 1991 Kingpin axle out of a big block 460 dump truck BTW. It has 2 leafs. I did not know but it has smaller brakes. So I needed to get new rotors/calipers. My driveshaft does line up though without swapping the end of the axle where you bolt the driveshaft to. Everything bolted up great (did have to play and loosen bolts to get track bar lined up) Guy cut it off a truck and loaded it into the back of my truck and I had to remove the springs/steering and dually hubs to better move it around.

Also the dana 60 has shorter axle shafts (I believe those are the terms) Where I had 3 splined washers before on the TTB, I left them out so I could fit the c-clip on the end of the 4x4 lockout.

If you or anyone does a dana 60 swap. Do not automatically buy the cheapest axle. If it's missing anything, it could waste a lot of time and cost a lot more $$$. I got a complete axle/springs/steering chopped off a truck for $650. One guy had a nice rebuilt axle all painted. 4.10 to 3.55 gears swapped (knowledgeable guy, I believe he did a good job) but it was missing the u-bolt mount on the drivers side and the trac-bar mount/steering components. He would not budge on $700. Compared to other guys' complete $1,000 axles, the $700 would of cost quite a bit more than $700 to get bolted up.

Also for core supports. I didn't realize mine were broke until after my fan was scraping my fan shroud a bit.

Well let me know how you like it. It doesn't sound like too bad of a job but I can't see swapping now that I just rebuilt my front end again.
And yes I get bump steer bad. The shop I had do the alignment has done it twice now and the truck still pulls to the right. Not really bad but it annoys me. They said '' that's as good as it's going to get with 33s. You may have to take it to a bigger truck shop'' lol
On the drivers side same deal. The cab mount looks good but I have a rust hole right near the mount.

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Extended Power · Aug 20, 2017

Mine had the same lean.
I got no spacer blocks on the passenger side, and a 1" block spacer on the drivers side.
Good now, but was the same...1" to 1 1/4" low on driver's side. (Measured from ground up to top of fender well opening trim.)

rrchlin · Aug 20, 2017

well I just got the brakes on and bled.. no leaks. Buttoned up steering. Put the wheels on and damn it looks good.

I took a measurement one day and the drivers side door line was below my knee with the broken mount. The passengers side was over my knee by an inch or two maybe.

Now with the dana 60 the door line is above both of my knees. Haven't measured how much lower the drivers side is yet though. But I'm thinking the TTB may of had an effect on this since the drivers side is not as noticeably lower now.

And the best part about it is.. my damn wheels are straight and not cambered in. I don't have a bumper and this looks much worse without one. Not sure if new outer bearings fixed this or if it was the TTB suspension.

Wheels also seem to have way more angle and further from the leaf spring. Full lock on my old F150 w/35s and the truck wanted to jump itself.

Chris2590 · Aug 23, 2017

Extended Power said:
Mine had the same lean.
I got no spacer blocks on the passenger side, and a 1" block spacer on the drivers side.
Good now, but was the same...1" to 1 1/4" low on driver's side. (Measured from ground up to top of fender well opening trim.)

Ok thanks I'll have to measure both sides and see what the difference is

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Chris2590 · Aug 23, 2017

rrchlin said:
well I just got the brakes on and bled.. no leaks. Buttoned up steering. Put the wheels on and damn it looks good.

I took a measurement one day and the drivers side door line was below my knee with the broken mount. The passengers side was over my knee by an inch or two maybe.

Now with the dana 60 the door line is above both of my knees. Haven't measured how much lower the drivers side is yet though. But I'm thinking the TTB may of had an effect on this since the drivers side is not as noticeably lower now.

And the best part about it is.. my damn wheels are straight and not cambered in. I don't have a bumper and this looks much worse without one. Not sure if new outer bearings fixed this or if it was the TTB suspension.

Wheels also seem to have way more angle and further from the leaf spring. Full lock on my old F150 w/35s and the truck wanted to jump itself.

Lucky bastard lol
That's one thing I hate is looking at the front of my truck and it looks pigeon toed. Have you had a chance to drive it yet?

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