The Perfect 99-04 Suspension

[TyCorr]

What springs and shocks did you end up going with?

Ummmm...i went with the soft rear option for 99-04s from sdtrucksprings and i got rough country front springs only because they came with a tracbar which I needed. The rears are 26 or 2800 lb springs. The fronts are 3k. Rear gets bags. Im running rancho 7000s in the back and the rough country nitros in the front. Both cheap shti they basically gave me for buying springs, hangers, bolts, airbags, etc from them. I initially planned to reuse my 21/2" tapered block but ended up ordering a 3 1/2 2.5° block from pmf as well as brakelines and other hardware.

My goal was squishy rear springs, slightly stiffer fronts, airbags for loads, traction bars, and level when empty. So far i hit all my marks. I plan to run the shocks until they die and then get some nice shocks. I did all that stuff in a hurry and haven't really thought much about it as Ive been tackling engine and trans stuff. Got my built trans in last week and got my windshield in so up next is some driving time.

Edit:i hauled 2300lbs of scrap iron to the scrapyard two weeks ago and the truck was dead level so it squatted about an inch with a ton plus in the bed.

 

[Layson]

I thought about that as well. Every talks about how well fox shocks ride. Even the stock 2.0's. I always wonder if it's just in their head or if they really do noticeably improve the ride.

Currently running 305/70r16 on a 16x10 wheel. I'd like to upgrade to a 20x10 wheel with a 33-35x12.5 at some point. One thing at a time.

I've fluctuated tire pressure between 50-65 psi.

If you are running 20's with pretty high psi levels and then you drop down to 16" wheels with 45psi range, it is almost like putting on a several thousand dollar soft riding suspension kit....LOL

That is why I get after some of the carli guys. When you change your wheel and tire package as drastically as they prefer to have on their kits it is almost a night and day kind of deal just by swapping wheel and tires. It is hard to compare what the kit actually did when you drop down to a smaller size wheel with lower psi in the tires.

I would stick with the 16's. The 16's will take out the harshness of nasty bumps and holes. So what if the sidewall rolls a little in the corners. Heck if you don't tow I would even mess with removing your sway bar and figuring out how much difference that even makes. Leaf spring trucks are just so much different than coil trucks. Much easier to deal with, last longer, and really can ride just as nice or better than a coil sprung truck. The real drawback is the leafs just get in the way to improve the turning radius...LOL

If I really wanted to make the rear ride nice, pull the overload leafs out, throw a set of OUO traction bars on. Then get a set of airbags for when you tow. It will ride a lot nicer.

 

[sootie]

not all of us follow carli's recommended tire size change...and the kits are more than a night and day difference fyi.

 

[liquidlounge]

You can just reuse your oem hangers if you want. Just costs you the price of some bolts.

How do you address the parking brake cable? I thought that was really the point of the PMF hangers.

 

[PABowhunter]

Ummmm...i went with the soft rear option for 99-04s from sdtrucksprings and i got rough country front springs only because they came with a tracbar which I needed. The rears are 26 or 2800 lb springs. The fronts are 3k. Rear gets bags. Im running rancho 7000s in the back and the rough country nitros in the front. Both cheap shti they basically gave me for buying springs, hangers, bolts, airbags, etc from them. I initially planned to reuse my 21/2" tapered block but ended up ordering a 3 1/2 2.5° block from pmf as well as brakelines and other hardware.

My goal was squishy rear springs, slightly stiffer fronts, airbags for loads, traction bars, and level when empty. So far i hit all my marks. I plan to run the shocks until they die and then get some nice shocks. I did all that stuff in a hurry and haven't really thought much about it as Ive been tackling engine and trans stuff. Got my built trans in last week and got my windshield in so up next is some driving time.

Edit:i hauled 2300lbs of scrap iron to the scrapyard two weeks ago and the truck was dead level so it squatted about an inch with a ton plus in the bed.

Gotcha. I remember discussing your rear block options trying to get your truck to sit level. Nothing wrong with all that. It's cheaper and it works.

 

[PABowhunter]

Leaf spring trucks are just so much different than coil trucks. Much easier to deal with, last longer, and really can ride just as nice or better than a coil sprung truck. The real drawback is the leafs just get in the way to improve the turning radius...LOL

If I really wanted to make the rear ride nice, pull the overload leafs out, throw a set of OUO traction bars on. Then get a set of airbags for when you tow. It will ride a lot nicer.

This is where I'm trying to get. See how close you could make a leaf spring truck ride like a coil truck.

As mentioned, you can get there with a Carli system. I haven't priced it out yet, but I'm sure it's expensive. I'm not sure how much of a ride difference there is for on road performance between a Carli system and some of the cheaper options mentioned.

 

[TyCorr]

Gotcha. I remember discussing your rear block options trying to get your truck to sit level. Nothing wrong with all that. It's cheaper and it works.

Im not sure cheap factors in in these situations lol. Im still 3 grand into it id say just guessing.

I wanted stock like suspension. My truck is disappointing in that it is waaaay higher than I had hoped for. If you want to run a 33 go for atock, stock, stock f250 parts. Block and all.

 

[PABowhunter]

True, I don't think there ever are cheap options for doing things the right way. There's just expensive and really expensive.

That goes back to my original post. What upgrades give the best benefit to cost ratio?

 

[Bluke]

How do you address the parking brake cable? I thought that was really the point of the PMF hangers.

I'm not too sure. I just ran across this and know you could do it. www.dieselpowerproducts.com/images/pdfs/05-07-Ford-F-250-350-to-2011-Leaf-Spring-Conversion.pdf

 

[Bluke]

True, I don't think there ever are cheap options for doing things the right way. There's just expensive and really expensive.

That goes back to my original post. What upgrades give the best benefit to cost ratio?

My personal belief is the rear is too stiff and causes most of the problems. I think a good solution would be a set of Carli mini packs for a 05-07. The rear springs never changed from 99-07. And you can pick up some custom valves for those.

 

[brewer]

Is there another swaybar company you recommend? I've never really heard much besides stock and hellwig.

None that I'm aware of but I could be wrong. If you have no rear sway bar now, adding an OEM 30mm F350 bar and a fresh set of bushings on the front bar should help roll a decent amount. The F350 bars are usually pretty easy to find on Craiglist or are probably still available through the dealer.

 

[TyCorr]

Roadmaster makes sway bars...

 

[brewer]

Roadmaster makes sway bars...

Are they an improvement over the F350 bar?

 

[liquidlounge]

I'm not too sure. I just ran across this and know you could do it. www.dieselpowerproducts.com/images/pdfs/05-07-Ford-F-250-350-to-2011-Leaf-Spring-Conversion.pdf

Thanks for the link bluke. It actually addresses the e-brake cable at the very end in the "notes":- "Route E-Brake Cable through the fuel tank strap when installing the driver’s side leaf". I wonder how this actually works? I actually use my e-brake from time to time and really don't want to compromise its performance, but if it saves me $300.00 and still works, that would be great.
The few that I have read that have done this conversion, have all reported positive results and the '11 and up springs are supposed to be better yet.

 

[Vader's Fury]

I just bought a set of 12 rear springs for my Excursion. Going to give them a try.

 

[TyCorr]

Are they an improvement over the F350 bar?

Im not sure in what regard. Many suppliers sell them.

My tow mule build last year had their bars on it. Got them from etrailer.

 

[Coueshunter]

Deaver leaf packs

Donahue racing had the best 99-04 suspension set up utilizing deavers

 

[Coueshunter]

A 20" rim will significantly reduce sidewall, and generally give a stiffer ride, vs a 16" rim.
On the other hand, handling will definitely improve.

That is pretty much crap. Tires are made much better now. Not to mention a 20" rim on a 35" tire had more sidewall then a 17" Tim on a stock 32" tire

 

[psduser1]

That is pretty much crap. Tires are made much better now. Not to mention a 20" rim on a 35" tire had more sidewall then a 17" Tim on a stock 32" tire

Brand new toyos are crap?

I went from wore out 16s-bfgs- to brand new 20s, both within an inch of each other, and the shorter sidewall is noticeable.

 

[JRLott]

No, psd. He's trying to say more sidewall has nothing to with handling of ride. Then follows up by saying a 32" tire on a 17" rim somehow has less sidewall than a 35" tire on a 20" rim. Strangely 32-17=15 just like 35-20=15. So he not only says something less than intelligent, he follows with an inaccurate remedial arithmetic solution while simultaneously demonstrating his slippery grasp of the English language. Not a clue how you mount a rim on a tire. I have always mounted my tires on rims.