too chip right now or not to chip is the question
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20007.3L
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should have edited that! while back i found a 5 in maine i think it was for $450 with T case
Layson
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On a stock truck it will last a long time.
Hotrodtractor
Moderator
If you insist on swapping a manual in - Do a ZF6 - not a ZF5 - the extra gear - extra torque capacity - actually having a fluid cooler to keep it from melting under power - the ability to bolt into a SD truck/chassis with no issues - off the shelf drive shafts - stronger tcase - etc... all make it a far better choice.
I would start with a good cooler and a chip from a reputable shop and see how bad you hate your auto. You might be surprised.
I would start with a good cooler and a chip from a reputable shop and see how bad you hate your auto. You might be surprised.
20007.3L
New member
Well i dont want to really do the swap but all chip shops told me to replace the trans due to the 2nd gear kick. maybe a chip could save the trans by smoothing out the shifting?
superduty4x4
Member
Yeah, for a gas motor. Have fun bolting that up to your 7.3.
psduser1
Well-known member
I've got a zf6, and an auto. Your not saving any money with the stick, I can guarantee you that! Reman zfs start around 2k, a decent clutch will run around $800, and paying to modify driveshafts, etc adds to the cost. How much will that save in the long run?
If your already set up with an auto, buy a BTS (or builder of choice) vlv body ($2-300), a 6l cooler (1-200$), and a chip. Done.
Or Dick around for weeks and a bunch of coin, and end up with a poorer product that will continue to require attention as long as you use it.
Your preference:toast:
If your already set up with an auto, buy a BTS (or builder of choice) vlv body ($2-300), a 6l cooler (1-200$), and a chip. Done.
Or Dick around for weeks and a bunch of coin, and end up with a poorer product that will continue to require attention as long as you use it.
Your preference:toast:
Bobby@cp
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Get the trans rebuilt for like $1,000 add in a good triple disk tc and a 6.0 cooler and be done.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
didnt know 2nd gear was ***ed up.. id still have it rebuilt and even consider a bts valve body and bts tc.. add in a second trans cooler, dont NEED to be a 6.0 cooler but they are nice, very large and pricey, and a good tow tune. could prolly get by on a stock rebuild and a tow tune as long as you dont flog the chit outta it.... the cooler that i put in my brothers truck is just a 26,000gvw thats in series with his stock system... same with mine but mine might be a 32,000gvw... they work and are $40-$50.
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
If you are not adding injector or turbo/s:
Stronger 3 disc converter
BTS/JW VB
6.0 Cooler and upgrade to the 1/2"lines
Inline filter.
Do not put the throttle down hard until you are in 2nd and the converter locks. You can even have the tuner defuel on the shifts.
IMO Auto/Manual is a preference (at least with the older trucks pre 6sp auto)... as well as, what you are use to, and a certain amount of skill when it comes to a manual. Personally I like a manual for a towing rig in these. I feel I have better control of keeping the RPMs right where I want them with gearing. But I live in the hills. But I sure would not want one if I was in traffic all the time, which I am not. Less to go wrong with them as well. No worries about shift patterns in tunes, burnt fluid, blown tq converters etc....
Its a whole lot easier to drop a strong clutch in a manual and cheaper too. For reasonable levels of power the ultimate strength IMO is not in play. You might be able to dump $5K into a 4r100 (BTS) and make it stronger but I wonder what you get it you spent the same upgrading a zf5 or6? More a question that a statement.
With all that said I would be hard pressed to converter to a manual unless you got a awesome deal on the parts and had all the parts. There are a few situations it might make sense but not sure I would do it in an attempt to save money unless you really enjoy rowing thru the gears. You still would need to upgrade the clutch to add to the price so do not forget that as well.
Stronger 3 disc converter
BTS/JW VB
6.0 Cooler and upgrade to the 1/2"lines
Inline filter.
Do not put the throttle down hard until you are in 2nd and the converter locks. You can even have the tuner defuel on the shifts.
IMO Auto/Manual is a preference (at least with the older trucks pre 6sp auto)... as well as, what you are use to, and a certain amount of skill when it comes to a manual. Personally I like a manual for a towing rig in these. I feel I have better control of keeping the RPMs right where I want them with gearing. But I live in the hills. But I sure would not want one if I was in traffic all the time, which I am not. Less to go wrong with them as well. No worries about shift patterns in tunes, burnt fluid, blown tq converters etc....
Its a whole lot easier to drop a strong clutch in a manual and cheaper too. For reasonable levels of power the ultimate strength IMO is not in play. You might be able to dump $5K into a 4r100 (BTS) and make it stronger but I wonder what you get it you spent the same upgrading a zf5 or6? More a question that a statement.
With all that said I would be hard pressed to converter to a manual unless you got a awesome deal on the parts and had all the parts. There are a few situations it might make sense but not sure I would do it in an attempt to save money unless you really enjoy rowing thru the gears. You still would need to upgrade the clutch to add to the price so do not forget that as well.
Wow, what's with all the manual haters! :shrug:
I have a ZF-6 in my 2000 and I love it. There are also capable of holding big power. Talk to Dan @ MidWest transmissions. He has a lot of experience with them.
I can shift my ZF-6 pretty quick. Plan on adding the MidWest short throw shift kit soon too.
That is why they make more than 1 tranny. Do what you want to do so you don't regret it later down the road.
Good luck with the truck!
I have a ZF-6 in my 2000 and I love it. There are also capable of holding big power. Talk to Dan @ MidWest transmissions. He has a lot of experience with them.
I can shift my ZF-6 pretty quick. Plan on adding the MidWest short throw shift kit soon too.
That is why they make more than 1 tranny. Do what you want to do so you don't regret it later down the road.
Good luck with the truck!
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
i dont hate it... they are built very stout but if you ever throw a couple hundy extra hp at it and tow with it regularly they will melt... on a 300 foot track and the clutch to hold it they are stout as hell.. but for less then the cost of the swap i would rebuild the 4r and put a good tow tune on it.. unless the swap is free..
live life full throttle
live life full throttle
bigred13
New member
I'm one of the standard hardcore to. But, just food for thought there will be a $500-$1200 core charge on a reman if you were gonna buy a rebuilt instead of used.
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
Snowman269
New member
Well Said!
Drive a BTS Trans and you'll be converted.
Unless your time is of no value, the swap is not cost efficient.
Or just go buy a truck with a manual trans.
bruce
Active member
But its manlier to shift your own gears. That's the only reason I can come up with for people ownin a hanshaker, and worth a crap for anything else
4.0l sahara
New member
why wouldn't you chip it? I don't think i could daily drive a 7.3 that wasn't chipped they suck stock. A healthy stock trans with a shift kit and decent converter is all you need.
Hotrodtractor
Moderator
There are definitely advantages and reasons to run a manual transmission - if I was towing heavy with a Super Duty - a ZF6 would be my friend.
I love the gear spacing of the ZF6 - I'm personally not a fan of the 2-3 gear spacing on the E4OD/4R100 - but it is awesome at shifting fast and holding power.
I love the gear spacing of the ZF6 - I'm personally not a fan of the 2-3 gear spacing on the E4OD/4R100 - but it is awesome at shifting fast and holding power.
Jason
New member
What's this "2nd gear kick" you speak of? My stock 4r100 went 260k miles...towing HEAVY, while running 35" tires, and tuned. I wasn't exactly easy on it, and it worked flawlessly. The reverse boost valve finally started acting up, causing it to try and lock the converter when in reverse. Outside of that, and even then, it worked great for everything else. My '00 is at 209k, and I will eventually get around to tuning it (not a big priority), but a valve body and a torque converter wil happen as well.
On a side note, no ned to beat on these trannies, when I would pull a hill heavy (26k+), if the need to downshift arose (losing speed for instance), I wouldn't jab it to the floor, I'd back out of the throttle, lock out overdrive, and roll back in 1/2 throttle or so and let the truck do its thing. I also never manually shifted the trans either. Not sure if it helped, but it lasted a long time.
On a side note, no ned to beat on these trannies, when I would pull a hill heavy (26k+), if the need to downshift arose (losing speed for instance), I wouldn't jab it to the floor, I'd back out of the throttle, lock out overdrive, and roll back in 1/2 throttle or so and let the truck do its thing. I also never manually shifted the trans either. Not sure if it helped, but it lasted a long time.
Na... I'll still take my 4R100...
37k GVW right there... Over Santiam Pass (from sea level to 5000' back down to 3000'... No issue what so ever maintaining 55-65mph... in fact had a hell of a time keeping it under 65 on the way down...:badidea:
20007.3L
New member
Alright, now CSIPSD, you saw the thread about my trans going out the door! Still having that 2nd gear slam, chip smooth that out??
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