Trac-loc rear LS...

[mandkole]

i heard the same thing but the clutch packs in the 10.5 diffs are very tight already-- don't see another plate going in..

 

[chappy]

i heard the same thing but the clutch packs in the 10.5 diffs are very tight already-- don't see another plate going in..

i tried it but it wasn't fun to drive on the street. Was really noisey also. tthey do fit though

 

[TyCorr]

i tried it but it wasn't fun to drive on the street. Was really noisey also. tthey do fit though

Anybody else have to back up or let off the throttle to get both tires to hook? Minez been like that as long as I can remember. Is mine shot? Also my front diff will not disengage. Hubs unlocked and the friggin knuckles STILL turn.

 

[CamTom12]

Is mine shot? Also my front diff will not disengage. Hubs unlocked and the friggin knuckles STILL turn.

Hubs are probably froze up

 

[MUDSTROKIN']

what makes the 10.5 lock up more? Mine seems to one wheel wonder all the time?

 

[Betarocker]

I use an ARB front and rear. Open when the situation requires, but locked with the flick of a switch.

 

[TyCorr]

Hubs are probably froze up

The locking hub or the hub itself?

 

[Chvyrkr]

The locking hub. Take it off and pop it against something firmly and it'll snap to the unlocked position, if it's going to.

 

[mandkole]

what makes the 10.5 lock up more? Mine seems to one wheel wonder all the time?

The friction disk clutch packs just wear out from use. There is a Belleville style spring washer that applies the pressure to friction materials. Many guys don't report getting much more than 40-50K out of a set of packs before they start deciding to not work under a hard load. My rig is driven so little that it didn't make sense to go with a better performing mechanical (tru-trak style) diff.

In my research, there is no effective 'tightening' of plates without having issues with poor operation (mentioned above) or even faster wear of the plates. You really load the spring and my diff/trans guy did not recommend it. My old plates got clunky in tight turns from being worn out.

You could weld the spiders and just turn it into a spool-- it would then be locked all the time.

 

[MUDSTROKIN']

I believe I've heard there's an additive that helps it lock more, is this true?

And wouldn't welding the spiders make it pop bad around corners?

 

[davey99ps]

I believe I've heard there's an additive that helps it lock more, is this true?

And wouldn't welding the spiders make it pop bad around corners?

Negative, by welding it your basically turning it into a spool. You'll always have the inside wheel break loose when you turn sharp, but there shouldn't be any clunking or popping if you weld it right. I really wouldn't recommend welding it though on a dd, I ran a welded rear on my old truck an it got old getting sideways around every turn when the roads are wet or snow covered

 

[Zmann]

Welded AKA Lincoln locker off road only IMHO

 

[TyCorr]

The locking hub. Take it off and pop it against something firmly and it'll snap to the unlocked position, if it's going to.

I took my stockers off, rebuilt them, didnt help. Put warns on in summer of 11 and it still does it, esp the dr. side. Any other ideas? Its not real high on the list of priorities.

 

[Zmann]

I took my stockers off, rebuilt them, didnt help. Put warns on in summer of 11 and it still does it, esp the dr. side. Any other ideas? Its not real high on the list of priorities.

I can't see any truck info .. what year is yours ?

 

[CamTom12]

I took my stockers off, rebuilt them, didnt help. Put warns on in summer of 11 and it still does it, esp the dr. side. Any other ideas? Its not real high on the list of priorities.

If your transfer case is in 2WD the only thing that would cause your knuckles to spin is the hubs. Might just be friction - do they spin slowly and gradually catch up to speed? Or they might just be stuck.

Try jacking the front axle up and on each side spinning the tires by hand while holding the knuckles. That'd give you a real quick indication if they were dragging from friction or stuck closed.

Unless there's something dragging in your transfer case? I don't know what could to cause that - never had one apart.

 

[CamTom12]

I can't see any truck info .. what year is yours ?

Looks like he's got an OBS SD

 

[TyCorr]

Looks like he's got an OBS SD

Yep! I refer to it as first gen sd. Its a 3/4ton cc/sb, 6"susp lift and 325/80/16 baja claws, warn locking hubs. I will try jacking up the front end and ill put a sleever.bar through the knuckle and turn the wheel by hand. I put new bearings in the front end last fall and have only clocked about.5k miles since.then. With 250+ its possible something is.getting.tired since its been shod with big tires the WHOLE time.

I didnt mean to jack this guys thread but it seemed like the atmosphere.was right to ask!

 

[onebad7.3]

The friction disk clutch packs just wear out from use. There is a Belleville style spring washer that applies the pressure to friction materials. Many guys don't report getting much more than 40-50K out of a set of packs before they start deciding to not work under a hard load. My rig is driven so little that it didn't make sense to go with a better performing mechanical (tru-trak style) diff.

In my research, there is no effective 'tightening' of plates without having issues with poor operation (mentioned above) or even faster wear of the plates. You really load the spring and my diff/trans guy did not recommend it. My old plates got clunky in tight turns from being worn out.

You could weld the spiders and just turn it into a spool-- it would then be locked all the time.

I rebuilt mine not long ago, it works ok at best, I'm thinking of pulling it out and adding a washer on both sides. How thick of a washer could I add to help lock it better, but not wear the clutch packs real fast? I heard of people adding another clutch pack, but to me that seems to be too much. Or am I just stuck with a crappy limited slip