Trany pan

Twan · Jul 4, 2013

My trany temp stays under 200* almost all the time, but on some long hard pulls, or really windy days I've seen it at 220*. Would a new pan with extra oil help keep it a little cooler when really working it hard?
Normal pulling it was around 170-190. The only time it gets over 200 is when my water and oil climb, so I'm looking at the easiest way to lower one of them think, hoping it will help the others a little.
Is there a bigger/better radiator for the 6.0's?
Money isn't really a problem, if its going to work. Just not into spending thousands wirhout results.
Thanks.

Mark Kovalsky · Jul 5, 2013

A larger pan won't cool the transmission. More oil will take a little longer to get hot, but it will also take longer to cool once it does get hot.

Check to see if the coolers have debris blocking the airflow.

dirk0 · Jul 5, 2013

I completely agree. I think derale makes a pan with cooling tubes going through it, but someone posted awhile back that it only helped by 5* and that was only as you were moving down the highway. Not worth the $$$.

Twan · Jul 5, 2013

Just cleaned them when I did head studs, less than 2000 miles. Also flushed the trans at the same time, new water pump and Thermostat.

Doodie · Jul 5, 2013

Cast iron one's retain heat like a mofo'. I had a Mag-Hytec on a 4R100 and took it back off after a rebuild. I think a extra large cooler up front is ticket.

windrunner408 · Jul 5, 2013

I agree. I would look into more cooling.

Spindrift · Jul 5, 2013

I pull fairly heavy at over 16K and I never see tranny temps that high. I have a Mag-Hytec pan. Even with that addition, I hadn't seen temps over 200* before the pan swap.

Twan · Jul 5, 2013

I'm working the **** out of it, 6-8% grade for 5 plus miles 75-90* weather and 8000-10000'.
The injectors also made my temp go up a little too.

Spindrift · Jul 5, 2013

Yeah...I don't do that.

Twan · Jul 5, 2013

Lol, when I slowed down temps were under 200*. I've got to much power for stock cooling, but I'm really Impressed with how well it keeps up too.

Mark Kovalsky · Jul 6, 2013

Doodie said:
Cast iron one's retain heat like a mofo'. I had a Mag-Hytec on a 4R100 and took it back off after a rebuild. I think a extra large cooler up front is ticket.

Mag-Hytec is cast aluminum. I have never seen a cast iron transmission pan. I'll bet the next cast iron pan made will be the first one ever made.

4.0l sahara · Jul 6, 2013

Pan is a waste of money

Twan · Jul 6, 2013

What type of upgraded cooling, trans, coolant or oil would you'll Recommend?

Mark Kovalsky · Jul 7, 2013

You already have the best transmission cooling available. It came with every 6.0L automatic truck.

windrunner408 · Jul 7, 2013

Clearly, whatever cooling system came on his truck is inadequate for the way he uses his truck. Whether the way he uses his truck is right, wrong, or not; I think he needs more cooling. I'm not sure what sort of cooling he needs but I am pretty sure he needs more than he has. I don't think he needs to replace his cooling system, I just think that he needs to add an auxiliary cooling unit. I personally, would probably look at getting a Derale pan, welding some bungs on it, and putting in a separate electric pump, lines, and cooler. I guess you could even add a filter to the mix too. Just thinking out loud....

Zmann · Jul 7, 2013

dirk0 said:
I completely agree. I think derale makes a pan with cooling tubes going through it, but someone posted awhile back that it only helped by 5* and that was only as you were moving down the highway. Not worth the $$$.

the Derale pan was worth it for me since I was going to have to buy a pan anyway to do the 09 real in pan filter upgrade

plus I like having the extra fluid however Marks statement is true more tokes longer to heat and longer to cool

I am working on the longer to heat while topping the hill

sleeps · Jul 7, 2013

im not 100% sure on how the factory transmission cooling works. but couldnt you run a new cooler with a fan on it in a cooler place so it cools better, and while you are at a stop also?

Mark Kovalsky · Jul 8, 2013

windrunner408 said:
Clearly, whatever cooling system came on his truck is inadequate for the way he uses his truck.

Why is that? The temperatures he stated in the original post are fine. He said it went as high as 220°F on a climb. This trans can run all day long at 220°F with NO PROBLEMS.

Now you can spend money to lower that temperature, but why? What will be gained? The trans will not last longer if it runs below 200°F compared to as high as 220°F.

Twan · Jul 8, 2013

Mark Kovalsky said:
Why is that? The temperatures he stated in the original post are fine. He said it went as high as 220°F on a climb. This trans can run all day long at 220°F with NO PROBLEMS.

Now you can spend money to lower that temperature, but why? What will be gained? The trans will not last longer if it runs below 200°F compared to as high as 220°F.

Thanks, that's good to know. Before I turned it up I couldn't ever get it to pass 200*.

Vanillaant · Jul 8, 2013

Mark Kovalsky said:
Why is that? The temperatures he stated in the original post are fine. He said it went as high as 220°F on a climb. This trans can run all day long at 220°F with NO PROBLEMS.

Now you can spend money to lower that temperature, but why? What will be gained? The trans will not last longer if it runs below 200°F compared to as high as 220°F.

WOW!! I didn't know that either. I could've seen 200F being the limit but 220F seemed up there. Coming from the gasser world, they all like their temps no higher than 180F.