Truck Died Yesterday Morning

DocBar · Jan 15, 2016

I'm in NYC, working with a mechanic who doesn't do a lot of diesels.

Magnum PD · Jan 15, 2016

If oil isn't coming up to the Rez, while cranking, you need to take the LPOP off and check it.

DocBar · Jan 15, 2016

Magnum PD said:
If oil isn't coming up to the Rez, while cranking, you need to take the LPOP off and check it.

Its been replaced.

Magnum PD · Jan 16, 2016

Might be the pick up tube.

DocBar · Jan 16, 2016

Magnum PD said:
Might be the pick up tube.

The wiz said he'd be very surprised if that came off. I've asked that question a few times and I keep not liking the answer.

bluedge8 · Jan 16, 2016

This was the post I was talking about, hope it helps.

Skill_Kills said:
This is the most helpful 7.3 starting post I've found
Originally posted by Dave (Golfer) on PSN 01-20-2010 Thanks Dave

its nevvvvver the oil pump...seriously.

I see sooooooooooooooo many guys (dealerships included) that see "no ICP" or some ICP codes in a scantool...and toss HPOP's on truck after truck...when it is either an IPR or an injector (poppet valve) issue.

If you hook up the scantool, and monitor ICP (psi) while cranking...you'll see IPR% (duty cycle) climb & climb 15% key on..20, 30, 40, 55%, higher..the increase in IPR% means that the PCM is requesting ICP pressure to increase...

so ALSO watch ICP(psi) and if it comes up to only 180-250psi or so and stays there...then it's the IPR hung open (bypassing oil back to the oil pan through the front coverhttp://www.amazon.com/Budge-Cover-Sedans-inches-B-3/dp/B000ALG86E) such that only minimal psi can be made.

If the ICP is VERY low...like under 60psi...then it could be injector (poppets) pissing oil (under the VC's)..which is typical for injector with more than 180-200k miles.

if ICP climbs above 550-600..then it will probably climb much higher (15-1800+) and it is most likely going to be an electrical issue.

If his scantool will not connect then its a PCM or chip issue (remove the chip if you have one & haven't removed it yet)

if the scantool connects AND you have >600ICP then look at the datastream for a RPM reading.

if the scantool picks up an RPM signal and it seems accurate....then the CPS is good.

If no RPM on the scantool, replace CPS.

If you have RPM (on scantool, not just on dash)...AND have ICP >600, then run an (key on, eng off) injector "buzz test"...

the buzz test is nothing more than a continuity test from the PCM, through the IDM, and to & from each injector solenoidhttp://www.amazon.com/Pico-1986-On-Injector-Solenoid-12085491/dp/B001RPRLM2.

LISTEN to each inj buzz....do they all sound the same? nice & crisp?

if the test passes (and you audibly heard them all)...then wiring is good, IDM is good, HPOP is good...CPS is good...then it could be a fuel issue. gasoline, water, etc...

I wouldn't mention it if I haven't seen it myself numerous times...

any chance this no start began with 10-20miles after a fillup?

holler if you need help troubleshooting. take care~ Dave
__________________________________________________ ______________________

Hears some good info also:

7.3L Powerstroke Starting Requirements:
Battery http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=automotive&field-keywords=car+batteryvoltage a minimum of 10.5 volts while cranking
RPM at least 100 while cranking. If no tach movement suspect CPS
If you have a scan tool ICP should be 500 PSI ± 25 PSI and fuel
pulse width should be 1 to 6 milliseconds.

The above requirements assume the following:

Correct oil level, oil type and pressure
Correct type of fuel
Correct fuel pressure (53 PSI per Ford spec)
Sufficient air supply (clean air filterhttp://www.amazon.com/s?fst=as:off&rh=n:15684181,k:air+filter&keywords=air+filter&ie=UTF8 & unobstructed intake)
Proper oil level in HPOP reservoir (1 to ¾ inch from top)
Proper glow plug relay and glow plughttp://www.amazon.com/gp/search?ie=...ex=automotive&keywords=glow+plug&linkCode=ur2 operation (in cold weather)
Proper injection timing (PCM controlled)

DocBar · Jan 16, 2016

bluedge8 said:
This was the post I was talking about, hope it helps.

That is a very helpful post, but the problem I'm having right now is the truck not having low pressure oil. I've changed the LPOP and still nothing. Is there a spot, besides the top of the HPOP res to check LPO pressure?

bluedge8 · Jan 16, 2016

mandkole said:
good grief.. sorry to hear bud.

Did you measure lpo from the lower test port behind the cooler?

Does this help? I haven't had to test lpo so I'm not too familiar.

mandkole · Jan 16, 2016

See the pic-- I used to have a good one but theres a few choices.

TyCorr · Jan 16, 2016

DocBar said:
That is a very helpful post, but the problem I'm having right now is the truck not having low pressure oil. I've changed the LPOP and still nothing. Is there a spot, besides the top of the HPOP res to check LPO pressure?

You changed it? Did it ever run after that?

DocBar · Jan 16, 2016

mandkole said:
See the pic-- I used to have a good one but theres a few choices.

That helps a lot!!v :rockon:

Arisley · Jan 18, 2016

DocBar said:
There is some pretty good scoring on the housing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I believe you have to replace the housing if it is scored.

DocBar · Jan 18, 2016

Arisley said:
I believe you have to replace the housing if it is scored.

The entire pump, including the housing, was replaced. There was no scoring or cracks on the front cover.

DocBar · Jan 22, 2016

UPDATE: The truck is running again. New IPR, ICP, CPS, LPOP, OIL and antifreeze. Starting up fine in 55* and 29* weather. Still smokes gray quite a bit when cold. Data logging looks good. The oil cooler had sludge in it, just like I saw in the overflow and on the dipstick. The truck has had 3 oil changes since its been down, two at the shop.
It started fine at 55* this morning and idled for several hours with no problems. It started right up after 3-4 hours at 29* with no problem.
The idle swings seem to have gone away but the truck still smoking gray smoke quite a bit.
Any ideas or suggestions?

Layson · Jan 22, 2016

I am not familiar with that turbo, but with my 38R when the seal was going out it would smoke a bit. Only reason I figured it out was I installed a billet wheel. When I had the turbo apart I saw oil inside the compressor housing....

DocBar · Jan 22, 2016

Layson said:
I am not familiar with that turbo, but with my 38R when the seal was going out it would smoke a bit. Only reason I figured it out was I installed a billet wheel. When I had the turbo apart I saw oil inside the compressor housing....

That's probably from the CCV. This is pretty heavy smoke. It used to be white when cold.

Layson · Jan 22, 2016

No my CCV was routed to the atmosphere. So the oil in my turbo on the compressor side through me off. Turned out the seal was leaking on the turbo and it went back to Garrett to fix. So it would smoke when I started it and eventually go away.

lincolnlocker · Jan 22, 2016

Layson said:
No my CCV was routed to the atmosphere. So the oil in my turbo on the compressor side through me off. Turned out the seal was leaking on the turbo and it went back to Garrett to fix. So it would smoke when I started it and eventually go away.

did you have the ccv routed to atmo before the 38r?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Layson · Jan 24, 2016

I think I might have done it at the same time many years ago lol

DocBar · Mar 15, 2016

After replacing the ICP, IPR, LPOP and the oil cooler, the truck is up and running but still having issues.
It has gray smoke at start up, regardless of temperature and has a long crank time when it's at, or close to, NOT. Last Saturday, I had to wait ~30 minutes for the oil to cool down before it would start. Any ideas?
In a week or so, I'm just going to ship the truck to Dynoproven and have them go through everything and throw the 400/200's back in.