Turbo Flutter

[JackE]

My initial issue was what I was guessing to be turbo flutter. Under heavy acceleration I was getting a fluttering sound anywhere above half throttle. PO said he had some drivability issues around 140K that resulted in replacing the injectors with "something a little bigger than stock" but he couldn't remember anything more because it was 10 years ago. The truck came original with the 4" turbo back Banks exhaust. Also has CAI which isn't really CAI because it sucks all it's air from inside the engine bay. No other power mods have been done.

In talking with a friend that has a friend that claims to be a builder of 7.3's, and taking advice from another forum, I replaced the compressor wheel with a Wicked Wheel 2 because that was the sure fire way to clear up the flutter. It definitely sounds better with the WW2, but the flutter is still there. Under normal driving conditions it isn't very noticeable. Under heavy acceleration, or pulling a big hill with a load, it is very noticeable. It seems to come in about 2300-2400 rpm's. The turbo whistle isn't affected at all, the boost pressure sits steady during the fluttering sound. My wastegate actuator is set at about 18-20 lbs. The turbo won't build anymore than 23 lbs under it's heaviest load WOT. I have even taken the red tube off the actuator and still can't get above 23 lbs. Most regular hwy driving it sits at 3-5 lbs, jumping to 12-15 when passing.

My biggest question is, am I doing any damage when I get into the fluttering sound?

I have a new actuator on the way, along with new vacuum lines to run it. It all looks like it's probably original stuff.

I think I may have over done it when I bought my trailer, it's gvrw is 16,800. But, it's mine now, so I just need to make sure the truck is up to the task of pulling her around.

Any thoughts or ideas, I'm ready to give it all the old college try.

 

[PDT1081]

The "flutter" is most likely the turbo surging. And yes, that can/will destroy a turbo.

 

[JackE]

Any ideas on where to go next? The other thing I have been told is to get the ATS housing. My thought is I might as well just get a new turbo rather than buy a housing for an old turbo.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Gtp38r and be done.

 

[dsberman94]

^whs. 38r is going to be your best bet for a drop in on a tuned truck. Leaves a little room for a slightly larger injector if you need it without jumping to the T-4 mount at a bigger cost.

 

[6.0 Tech]

Kc300x stage1. We sell those for stock injector to 180/30 trucks as our tow package. Go with the .84 housing on it.


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[lincolnlocker]

My initial issue was what I was guessing to be turbo flutter. Under heavy acceleration I was getting a fluttering sound anywhere above half throttle. PO said he had some drivability issues around 140K that resulted in replacing the injectors with "something a little bigger than stock" but he couldn't remember anything more because it was 10 years ago. The truck came original with the 4" turbo back Banks exhaust. Also has CAI which isn't really CAI because it sucks all it's air from inside the engine bay. No other power mods have been done.



In talking with a friend that has a friend that claims to be a builder of 7.3's, and taking advice from another forum, I replaced the compressor wheel with a Wicked Wheel 2 because that was the sure fire way to clear up the flutter. It definitely sounds better with the WW2, but the flutter is still there. Under normal driving conditions it isn't very noticeable. Under heavy acceleration, or pulling a big hill with a load, it is very noticeable. It seems to come in about 2300-2400 rpm's. The turbo whistle isn't affected at all, the boost pressure sits steady during the fluttering sound. My wastegate actuator is set at about 18-20 lbs. The turbo won't build anymore than 23 lbs under it's heaviest load WOT. I have even taken the red tube off the actuator and still can't get above 23 lbs. Most regular hwy driving it sits at 3-5 lbs, jumping to 12-15 when passing.



My biggest question is, am I doing any damage when I get into the fluttering sound?



I have a new actuator on the way, along with new vacuum lines to run it. It all looks like it's probably original stuff.



I think I may have over done it when I bought my trailer, it's gvrw is 16,800. But, it's mine now, so I just need to make sure the truck is up to the task of pulling her around.



Any thoughts or ideas, I'm ready to give it all the old college try.

Can you adjust the wastegate? Or is it a factory gate?

If so adjust it to 26-28psi and rock out. Shut off overdrive and let the rpms climb. If that doesn't work then time for a 38r or kc38r...

live life full throttle

 

[Strokersace]

The "flutter" is most likely the turbo surging. And yes, that can/will destroy a turbo.

100% what it is. When I first experienced it years ago on my old 2002 that was stock except 4” turbo back exhaust and open air filter, it scared the crap out of me!

The wicked wheel is pointless, actually flows less air than the stock SD wheel. But in theory slows the air down which is supposed to limit surging. That’s what I recall anyway. It’s been about 15 years since I’ve had a stock turboed ANYTHING!

If you were dead set on keeping a stock turbo, put a van turbo on it. It has the 1.15 a/r turbine housing verses the .84 housing and the same compressor side as the truck turbo. That will eliminate the surge. I also added an ats compressor housing at the the time. It certainly didn’t hurt! Ran big injectors (for 15 years ago) with it and didn’t have surge, but turbo was tapped out.

Honestly though, by the time you spruce up a stock turbo, you’ve spent 1/2 the money or more than just buying a KC or 38r drop in. And then you’d had some upside potential. If I recall, the newer KC drop in outperforms the Garrett 38r in almost every way. If I was doing it all over again in today’s timeframe and NOT going bigger than a stage 1 injector, maybe a small stage 2, I’d go with the KC Turbo drop in.

 

[dmd]

Old school now.. I went with the 38r 10 years ago and have 160/30, I believe, and works great all this time later..

Now with the added power you might be looking at a transmission.. lol

 

[lincolnlocker]

100% what it is. When I first experienced it years ago on my old 2002 that was stock except 4” turbo back exhaust and open air filter, it scared the crap out of me!

The wicked wheel is pointless, actually flows less air than the stock SD wheel. But in theory slows the air down which is supposed to limit surging. That’s what I recall anyway. It’s been about 15 years since I’ve had a stock turboed ANYTHING!

If you were dead set on keeping a stock turbo, put a van turbo on it. It has the 1.15 a/r turbine housing verses the .84 housing and the same compressor side as the truck turbo. That will eliminate the surge. I also added an ats compressor housing at the the time. It certainly didn’t hurt! Ran big injectors (for 15 years ago) with it and didn’t have surge, but turbo was tapped out.

Honestly though, by the time you spruce up a stock turbo, you’ve spent 1/2 the money or more than just buying a KC or 38r drop in. And then you’d had some upside potential. If I recall, the newer KC drop in outperforms the Garrett 38r in almost every way. If I was doing it all over again in today’s timeframe and NOT going bigger than a stage 1 injector, maybe a small stage 2, I’d go with the KC Turbo drop in.

110% agreed!!

Van turbine is a lil bigger as well. Not just the housing.

live life full throttle

 

[JackE]

100% what it is. When I first experienced it years ago on my old 2002 that was stock except 4” turbo back exhaust and open air filter, it scared the crap out of me!

The wicked wheel is pointless, actually flows less air than the stock SD wheel. But in theory slows the air down which is supposed to limit surging. That’s what I recall anyway. It’s been about 15 years since I’ve had a stock turboed ANYTHING!

If you were dead set on keeping a stock turbo, put a van turbo on it. It has the 1.15 a/r turbine housing verses the .84 housing and the same compressor side as the truck turbo. That will eliminate the surge. I also added an ats compressor housing at the the time. It certainly didn’t hurt! Ran big injectors (for 15 years ago) with it and didn’t have surge, but turbo was tapped out.

Honestly though, by the time you spruce up a stock turbo, you’ve spent 1/2 the money or more than just buying a KC or 38r drop in. And then you’d had some upside potential. If I recall, the newer KC drop in outperforms the Garrett 38r in almost every way. If I was doing it all over again in today’s timeframe and NOT going bigger than a stage 1 injector, maybe a small stage 2, I’d go with the KC Turbo drop in.

So what I'm catching here is do the ATS housing now because if I do the van turbo, I should do it on that one as well. Doing the housing now might fix the problem according to all the internet university info I have listened to so far that still hasn't fixed my problem. And if it doesn't, get a van turbo and put the ATS on it and my problem will be gone. I guess I just need to schedule a few days of overtime before I retire and buy one of those fancy KC turbos and be done with it for another couple hundred thousand miles......

 

[PDT1081]

So what I'm catching here is do the ATS housing now because if I do the van turbo, I should do it on that one as well. Doing the housing now might fix the problem according to all the internet university info I have listened to so far that still hasn't fixed my problem. And if it doesn't, get a van turbo and put the ATS on it and my problem will be gone. I guess I just need to schedule a few days of overtime before I retire and buy one of those fancy KC turbos and be done with it for another couple hundred thousand miles......

If your budget is even somewhat close, splurge and get the KC. Buy once, cry once.

 

[Strokersace]

So what I'm catching here is do the ATS housing now because if I do the van turbo, I should do it on that one as well. Doing the housing now might fix the problem according to all the internet university info I have listened to so far that still hasn't fixed my problem. And if it doesn't, get a van turbo and put the ATS on it and my problem will be gone. I guess I just need to schedule a few days of overtime before I retire and buy one of those fancy KC turbos and be done with it for another couple hundred thousand miles......

That’s NOT what I was saying. Only sharing my experience.

If your budget is even somewhat close, splurge and get the KC. Buy once, cry once.

This^^

Think about it from a time investment... spend the time pulling turbo just to install a compressor housing. Then when that may not be enough, you buy a van turbo used, then rebuild it, then buy a downpipe adapter, then pull stock turbo to replace. Once you factor in all that, just bite the little extra bullet and get a 38r or KC turbo and do it once.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Can you adjust the wastegate? Or is it a factory gate?

If so adjust it to 26-28psi and rock out. Shut off overdrive and let the rpms climb. If that doesn't work then time for a 38r or kc38r...

live life full throttle

Im still waiting on an answer here

live life full throttle