Turbo Noise

tbsimmons · Dec 24, 2012

Have buy one. Cleaned it last night and it was not clogged. Used a pick and cleaned the sensor and still the same. Think the sensor is shot. Will order one in after Christmas. Thanks for the help. I will post of it works or not.

tbsimmons · Dec 25, 2012

Now getting codes. Exhaust back pressure low and 2263. The Vgt turbo is not working at all now. Guess the sensor is totally shot now. Everyone have a Merry Christmas.

forcefed6.4ford · Dec 25, 2012

Cheap part and an easy fix.

BFT · Dec 25, 2012

Sounds about right. It'll take you longer to find the tools then it will to change the tube and sensor

tbsimmons · Dec 25, 2012

It is easy to take everything off. The truck drives like crap and is smokey as hell right now. Now I know what a single would fell like. The exhaust sounds cool though at idle.

tbsimmons · Dec 28, 2012

Well changed the sensor and same noise.
I found the Back Pressure and Desired Back Pressure in the SCT.
They both change depending on throttle position.
I disconnected the rod from the motor to the vanes.
Started the truck.
The motor moves trying to correct what I am doing to the vanes along with the back pressure changing on the SCT.
I have not got a clue. I went and drove the truck and seems to be better, but still not where it was. At least when the TC locks it doesnt fall on its face.
Anyone have any ideas?
The U-Tube between the turbos is fine.
I still dont see any leaks. (Dont see how this one is possible when the vanes are the reason for the sound).
Changed the back pressure sensor and the sound still there, drive-ability is better.
Did not change the tube, but it is clear and I verified with Brake Clean and air compressor.
This is annoying.
One good thing, the No Limit Intercooler is a very nice piece and looks great behind the grille.

BigBluediesel08 · Jan 2, 2013

Op, how's the truck running? Ever find a fix for your problems?
Also, can the tube be eliminated but still use the sensor?

tbsimmons · Jan 2, 2013

No fox yet. Truck runs fine. I am pulling the fiver this weekend and will be able to give the vanes a workout.
I am sure I could delete the tube. Looks to be -6an on both ends.
The back pressure maxes in the 460 kpa which is in the 60 psi range. At wot it is in the 400 range both on the street tune. I have not checked to see if the live wire adds in atmospheric pressure or not because the back pressure seems to be within reason. Any ideas for me.

tbsimmons · Jan 3, 2013

Found it. The bellow for the EGR crap. I am just going to take it off. Move the block off plate to the top and tap it for the EBP sensor.
Any advice or tricks on taking the EGR crap pipe off?
Doesnt look bad, but I would bet the bolts are tighter than ****.

Corb@CorbinShipping · Jan 3, 2013

tbsimmons said:
Found it. The bellow for the EGR crap. I am just going to take it off. Move the block off plate to the top and tap it for the EBP sensor.
Any advice or tricks on taking the EGR crap pipe off?
Doesnt look bad, but I would bet the bolts are tighter than ****.

Damn... Glad you figured it out. Everyone that I talked to, says that those bolts are hard as hell to get out... good luck.

qcfarmer · Jan 4, 2013

I did my up-pipes (one was cracked) when I had my tranny out to put in my new clutch. Since I was already deleted, I got rid of the egr pipe at the same time. I just relocated the block off plate to where the pipe bolted to the up-pipe. I had to reuse the ebp tube simply because the wires that plug into the sensor weren't long enough otherwise. When I get some free time I might extend the wires and get rid of the tube.

Dzchey21 · Jan 4, 2013

You need a tube to keep the sensor alive

qcfarmer · Jan 4, 2013

Good to know. I will leave it as is

tbsimmons · Jan 4, 2013

I will be leaving the tube. Any trick tools to get to get the 4 top bolts out or just a wrench or ratchet with a lot of penetrating oil.

forcefed6.4ford · Jan 5, 2013

Are you talking about removing the coolers? Im having problems seeing (in my mind) what your talking about.

tbsimmons · Jan 5, 2013

The part that connects to the coolers that runs up to the top behind the turbos. It then connects to the passenger side up pipe.

forcefed6.4ford · Jan 5, 2013

Oh.... Fun times ahead.

qcfarmer · Jan 5, 2013

Aren't there only 2 bolts that connect it to the up-pipe? Maybe we aren't talking about the same pipe.

tbsimmons · Jan 6, 2013

Yes. 2 to the up pipe and 2 for the mount on top.

tbsimmons · Jan 7, 2013

F*&( that pipe.
Here is a run down on how I did it.
Drop the down pipe.
I sprayed penetrating oil and all the bolts the night before and about an hour before I started.
I used a 3/8" drive electric impact.
It will fit with the downpipe gone.
Remove the (2) bolts from the up pipe to the EGR pipe.
The two to the mount on top, I used a 10mm 3/8" drive ratchet and some grunting.
Now the fun part.
Remove driver side inner fender.
If you hold your tongue right and and lick your ass you can see the mount for the pipe between the manifold and the up pipe.
10mm also.
I used a longer extension and a short 10mm because a longer one hits the pipe and cant get a good bite on the bolt.
Once that is out the pipe is loose.
Make (2) cuts.
One at the bend near where either the block off plate is and or the egr cooler.
The other is made up top. I used a sawzall on the bottom and little electric body cutter on top.
It will fall out then.
Take sledge hammer and beat the living piss out of the pipe.
I am waiting for my brother to help me with the down pipe. Other than that I am done.
I used the original block off plate and just drilled and tapped it using the original fitting for the back pressure sensor.
It is 1/4 pipe thread is any one cares.
We should be good. If not I will post again.
Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it.
Oh one last thing. Screw that pipe.