twin PSD powered 10 M

[IDIoit]

purchaced my dream vessle last week!
its a heavy lay 33' Predator off shore.
i purchased this beast with no engines, and no drives.
i am an avid boater, i have 3 v-drive flatbottoms with ford, chevy, and pontiac power.

I finally have something i can take on the open seas!

my plan of attack is to install 2 freshly built 97 7.3's
i have a core, but i need to purchase another, then i can have them machined to the same exact specs.

this is a long term project.
my hang up is the electrical.
all of the machining, i will do with the help of one of my good friends that owns a machine shop.

im currently looking for any type of shop manual that describes the wiring IN DEPTH!

heres a couple of shots that im working with.
no pics of the engine bay yet, i need to do some electrical to get the hatch open.

if anyone has a electrical manual for these early powerstrokes, could you please chime in with the ISBN number so that i can purchase it?
i would be greatly appreciative!

heres a few more pics of my other rigs.

 

[morefuel]

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Ford/1997/Pickup F250 Heavy Duty/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/

Hopefully that helps.

 

[Radioflyer]

This is cool!! If you need any parts or anything, let me know and I'll do my best to help out!

 

[IDIoit]

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/Ford/1997/Pickup F250 Heavy Duty/SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS/

Hopefully that helps.

you dont even know how much this helps!!!!
THANK YOU!

one of my biggest concerns is that, i want this all DIY!
ive been a non-computerized gear head all my life.
its time for me to step up my game!

i need to bear down and grasp my cranium around the electrical.
are these systems resistance dependent?

i need the TPS to be mounted on the engine and operated by cables.
this has been done. so i dont see where i would have any problems.
just gotta figure it all out. i love a good challenge.

cooling system will have a heat exchanger cooled by fresh water intake or salt water whatever i decide to drive in.

exhaust will be custom 409 stainless water cooled headers that i will fab up and tig weld together.
unless i can find the manifolds for cheap, but nothing says "im a bada$$" like stainless steel headers.

most likely a dumb question...
but with water cooled headers, should i still look into having a inner cooler?
im still concerned about EGT's with 2.0 overdriven drives, its gonna have quite a load.

as far as computers go, i dont know enough to address them yet.
i decided not to run a tuner or any other form of performance chips on my 01 because i am a noob.
i need to understand these engines in its entirety before i go messing with computers.
but eventually id like to MAP my own.

i will be getting one of these to run on a stand, with everything done sort of like you see in the videos below.

single shot injectors will be used for mock up, and for initial start up, id like to install some hot double shots in the future.
again i need to expand my brain.

if you have any points of interest that you think i should address and research, please chime in!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM-konr4KNU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQAoiPsOgio

 

[psduser1]

Wtf are double shots?

Wtf would you have watercooled headers?

If you are going to run a turbo, you'll want hot exhaust.

 

[superpsd]

Will be cool to hear when. It's all done.

 

[IDIoit]

Wtf are double shots?

Wtf would you have watercooled headers?

If you are going to run a turbo, you'll want hot exhaust.

pre 99 7.3 have single shot injectors.
they fire once per cycle.
99.5-03 7/3's have double shots. (or split shot)
double shots fire twice or is it they fire in 2 directions?
injector code AA's and AB's

both types will run in either engine but you need to flash the CPU to compensate.
(its more of a fuel consumption thing)

Why would i have watercooled headers you say?
this is a marine application. fiberglass melts at alot lower of tempurature than aluminum

you need the water cooled headers so you dont warp the boat, take a second and watch the videos i posted of the Mercruiser D7.3.
its pretty interesting!

the exhaust will be hot!
you will never get the temp of the exhaust gasses that are coming out of the exhaust port lower than your foot lets it.
but it would be cool on the outside of the engine.
like i said, its a marine application.

Will be cool to hear when. It's all done.

and another 15 grand thrown into a hull into the water

youre the guy that DIY'd a supercharger to your ps?
ive seen the u-tube vids, that thing is super slick!!!!
:drool:

 

[psduser1]

And I'm going to suggest you study up on single vs splitshots.

I didn't think about the hull, all bs aside. I will tell you a turbo ed engine will like hotter temps to drive the turbo than you "might" be accustomed to. Nine hundred to eleven hundred degrees is pretty standard on these engines under load.

 

[psduser1]

Cool vids. Are they yours?

 

[IDIoit]

oah i will be doing LOTS and lots of studying.
im a rookie, and i know it.
i dont claim to know it all, but id like to know it all without claiming it..lol
i wish those were mine. if they were, id be taking out a personal loan right now to buy drives and finishing this thing!
4300 a shot for bravo 3's w/ 2.0:1

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

For performance injectors you're going to want oversized single shots. The Split shots are oil hungry as hell.
To get the power I think you will want out of these motors you're going to want a set of 238CC/100% over injectors. That would put each motor in the 400hp range and still have some more left. Depending on the RPM range you'll be running I would consider swapping to an S366 or larger charger. That will make a huge difference in EGTs.

As far as electronically controlled diesels go, the 7.3 is fairly simple. If you take the truck harness with PCM and IDM, and add power, they will start and run. For tuning, run the PHP Hydra chip. Makes tuning USB updateable with shift on the fly tunes. Also, I would make sure you have the exact same PCMs so they're won't be any tuning conflicts.

 

[IDIoit]

great info!
this is what i need!
yes, i will be number matching every damn component i can.
i want to make these engines run within 10% of eachother.

i have tons and tons of research to do.
HPOP's injectors & the pressures they pop at, etc.
thats great news that the wiring and computers are user friendly.
puts my anxiety at ease a bit!

i had thought about twin charging both of them, so i can use all 4 exhaust outlets out of the back of the transom.
again, alot of reading to do!

thanks! all of you!
for hooking me up with this knoledge and bashing me on the "double shots"
seems like i needed it lol
i love it when people beat me up, i learn better that way!

 

[TurboM700]

What are you using for drives?

Unless your running a #6 or greater or surface drives nothing is going to handle the low end tourqe the diesel makes. You also will need a 2spd transmission as a 7.3 spins about half the speed a BB does.

I'm a diesel not and this thought has crossed my mind more then once. Put there is way to many cons to make this a work let alone run at speeds these boats run at.

 

[IDIoit]

they run Bravo 3 drives with these marine powerstrokes.
you can get several different gear ratios, im bouncing inbetween 1.85's and 2.0's
these are a dual prop drive, they can handle the torque!
im not trying to make this super fast.
im targeting for 60-70 mph range.
and most of all, make it super reliable.
i wont be racing it, if i wanna race, ill grab one of my v-drives!
theres always someone faster than you. so im gonna do my best to satisfy my soul rather than someone else!

 

[PDT1081]

I think you really need to ask yourself what your power goals are for the motors. That will dictate a lot of the direction you need to pursue.

One of the beauties of this project is that ONE TPS should be able to control both motors. You may need two (one for forwards and one for reverse) but you can mount them anywhere on the boat. You'll just need to run a wire supplying the voltage top the PCM.

 

[psduser1]

I wasn't trying to beat you up, lol. Just slow your roll a little.
I don't know sh!t about boats, or drives, so I can't comment on that part. The engine part , maybe a little. The 238s mentioned, even with somewhat less efficient turbos, should get you around 500 hp, apiece, depending on how well your heads flow. I'm assuming you don't want to be billowing black smoke all over your favorite lake. I really think you'll be limited by airflow, depending on how hot your willing to get the exhaust, as heat energy is what drives a turbo.
Another thing, as mentioned above, is that these engines can effectively turn 3800-4200 rpm. That puts you on the backside of the hp curve, on most average engines. If you care to spend the money, you can raise that number, but it'll be pricey! At that point, you'll want to go to someone like swamps, who has a lot of experience building high hp/high rpm diesels.
Pretty sure a pair of 500 hp engines will get you over 80 mph, unless that hull limits you.

 

[IDIoit]

the hull is designed to do 80.
this boat will not be taken on the lake at all, i live on the sacremento delta, so ill be stayin pretty local with this one, i want to beable to take it all up and down the pacific coast.
if i go to the lake, i have smaller boats. one of which will do 90, after my heads get back from a 340 cfm port job!
im not the type to roll coal. i want a solid 400 hp out of each, nothing too crazy!
i have a business note to pay off, so when thats done, i may swap to some 500 hp+ engines. the goal is to make it reliable. calling vessle assist 30 miles off shore will be a heafty price!



id rather you beat me up, than slow my roll! lol i tend to go over obstructions :flipa:

i wanna thank all of you!
great ideas and information!
first things first. time to look for a engine and get it to run on a cradle! then replicate the wiring harness! maybe even market them!!!!

I think you really need to ask yourself what your power goals are for the motors. That will dictate a lot of the direction you need to pursue.

One of the beauties of this project is that ONE TPS should be able to control both motors. You may need two (one for forwards and one for reverse) but you can mount them anywhere on the boat. You'll just need to run a wire supplying the voltage top the PCM.

reverse is in the drives themselvs.
and an "OAH HELL NO" on a single TPS. i have 2 cables for throttles,
and i dont want something like a fricken TPS to leave me stranded on the open seas!
if one goes out, i still have another to rely on!
after digging deeper into the boat, i wont need long leads for throttles. on the engine themselvs will be perfect!

 

[psduser1]

There aren't really any mechanical differences, internally from 4 to 500 horse. Buy the right injectors, and it's just a tuning change. Hydra as suggested makes that easy enough.

 

[IDIoit]

There aren't really any mechanical differences, internally from 4 to 500 horse. Buy the right injectors, and it's just a tuning change. Hydra as suggested makes that easy enough.

i guess the best thing to do then is to build the internals for 500 hp range and just dial it back!
great thing about the early engines is that they have forged rods, right? not that powder crush garbage.

are the cranks forged or cast?

i wonder if they make a fully forged rotating assembly for these and H beams instead of the I beams.
ive seen some pretty gnarly 7.3's on youtube. but there a little more costly than my pocket book allows.

the 340 cfm heads i had shipped to the east coast to a pontiac builder.
i need to find a place than has a flow bench locally than can port these..
again, more research needed.

 

[IDIoit]

heres a shot of the rest of my marine fleet.