Unique Turbo Question

[doo dah]

I have Industrial's single kit, was called Viper but they renamed it now and are offering more sizes. Mine is a non vgt 64/68/14 and my question is regarding the intercooler connection. Mine is off the bottom of the turbo and the connection is a silicone 90 elbow that the piping from the IC connects to. This part has failed 3 times on me now, the last time (2 weeks ago) I was in nowhere TX with my 42' fiver in tow with family on the way to ski spring break. Industrial has been great about replacing the part and this was the first time I put it on the other 2 were at the shop that installed it. The elbow is resting against the fuel lines in the valley of the engine which got me thinking that maybe they are getting hot enough to weaken the silicone and eventually leading to the part failure. Anyone with experience with this? Based on what I can find in google pics most other turbos have the IC pipe coming out of the side of the turbine housing but I'm not sure I want to drop another 5g on a different turbo. Can I change the housing and keep the guts? If I change I assume I would need a different piping kit as well or possibly modify the one I have to fit a new model? Or should I get a metal elbow and use silicon couplers to avoid the heat decay? HELP!

 

[White_monster]

Post some pics.

 

[bigrpowr]

I have Industrial's single kit, was called Viper but they renamed it now and are offering more sizes. Mine is a non vgt 64/68/14 and my question is regarding the intercooler connection. Mine is off the bottom of the turbo and the connection is a silicone 90 elbow that the piping from the IC connects to. This part has failed 3 times on me now, the last time (2 weeks ago) I was in nowhere TX with my 42' fiver in tow with family on the way to ski spring break. Industrial has been great about replacing the part and this was the first time I put it on the other 2 were at the shop that installed it. The elbow is resting against the fuel lines in the valley of the engine which got me thinking that maybe they are getting hot enough to weaken the silicone and eventually leading to the part failure. Anyone with experience with this? Based on what I can find in google pics most other turbos have the IC pipe coming out of the side of the turbine housing but I'm not sure I want to drop another 5g on a different turbo. Can I change the housing and keep the guts? If I change I assume I would need a different piping kit as well or possibly modify the one I have to fit a new model? Or should I get a metal elbow and use silicon couplers to avoid the heat decay? HELP!

no reason to buy a new kit. at worst have yur pipe cut and bead rolled. it's nothing new to the high boost after market kits that blow that lower boot. we actually now offer our outlets on the ic to be just a normal bead rolled end vs the factory end .

 

[doo dah]

I'll get some up

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[NathannialD]

What in the?

 

[doo dah]

I'm sorry?

 

[sootie]

That's a cluster.....Can you take a pic from further away? Is there any way to clock the compressor housing to get it to a better orientation?

 

[doo dah]

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[getstroked27]

what da eff????? that's wild it's clocked like that!!!

 

[doo dah]

what da eff????? that's wild it's clocked like that!!!

Could the fix be as simple as re-clocking it? I know it wouldn't be easy work but to me it looks like it could work out, just don't know what all would be involved in turning it counter clockwise to 3 o'clock.

 

[getstroked27]

It looks to me like it would be possible if you shorten the IC end of that charge pipe, rotate it, and clock the comp cover to the 3 o clock ish. but don't quote me on that.

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

Is your hot side pipe backwards? It looks like if you click the housing to 3 o'clock and flip the pipe it might aline correctly.

 

[doo dah]

I think it will all line up I would just need a coupler that is 2.5 on the turbo side and 3 on the IC side. I'm guessing I would need to remove the turbo so I can take it apart and rotate the housing?

 

[forcefed6.4ford]

There should be a v-band on the centre section that you can loosen to clock the outlet. All you'd need to take off is the intake plumbing to get access to it.... I think. Just need more photos.

 

[blacksmoke.r.us]

Many times when you have any sort of 90 degree silicon boot connected on the compressor housing the boot fails cause of redirecting the pressure and heat 90 degrees. If it were me I would modify the hot side pipe with a 90 degree elbow and use a straight coupler/boot to connect to the turbo. Leave all piping the same no reason to clock the compressor housing and start another issue with pipe clearance. Let the pipe take the abuse instead of the silicone boot.

 

[doo dah]

The IC pipe has a 90 on it that goes down into the 90 boot. I could turn it towards the turbo and run a straight section off the housing but clearance could be an issue because there is very little room between the compressor and the fuel lines in the valley. I could use a 45 degree bend pipe to get the clearance but finding one that is 2.5 on one side and 3 on the other is the challenge. But I guess I'm facing that regardless unless I get a smaller IC pipe that matches the 2.5 outlet on the compressor. I believe that regardless of whether I modify the path going to the valley or clock the housing I am possibly in for some challenges in finding the right pipe to match up the two different diameter holes.