Upgraded hydraulics for ZF6 transmission

[HaysKSFirefighter]

this works too...
http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/500/medium/phone_pics_11-24-12_234.jpg

Have some more info on this?

 

[powerstrokenstang]

i am using a 3/4 bore wilwood master and thats just a universal push style slave. i was using a pull type with the zf5 but this pushes like stock where the pull type i had to stand on it, lol got real stiff with the weighted clutch at 4500 rpm. i have not had the truck running since i put the 6spd in but seems like this slave will work great.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-Type-Slave-Cylinder,1944.html
the bracket i made is just 2"x1/4" bolted under the 4x4 shifter then 3x3/8" bolted to that. the 1/4" stuff is bent a lil to get the proper angle.

 

[hawgdoctor]

On the advice of Jason, I checked with O-reilly's and Advance for a Master/Slave assembly after getting my socks knocked off by the dealer at 230+ dollars!!!

Advance had one sitting on the shelf for 138 dollars, with Master, Slave rod and bushing, with line, pre-bled.

And get this....


When I took it out of the box.... the master and slave were both cast ALUMINUM!!!!

NOT PLASTIC!!!


The clutch engages at around half pedal! Never has this been the case for any superduty I have owned. Even after specifically setting up the pressure plate to help in this area.

Wow....


Thank you Advance auto.

You have a part number for that Charles?

sent from the shop making things fly.....

 

[rusty1161]

It was "PF-9021" at Advance Auto.


And if you buy one and it's like the one I got, you MUST USE THE FORD ROD. Unless you want to be disassembling your new master to get the wrong rod out of it.

This?

Rusty

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

This?

Rusty

This is the all metal one I ordered. It is nice compared to the Motorcraft unit that I pulled out. My slave cylinder seal blew out, which explained my hard shifting. Now I just need to get my southbend in...my throwout is howling at me :shocked:

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

Bringing this one back up, I got my southbend in finally and have noticed lately that the clutch is engaging further down to the floor. I crawled underneath tonight to check out the slave and see if it was leaking down like the last one. It was bone dry but I noticed that the slave wiggles around and is loose even though it is locked in by the tabs. Does anyone else have something like this going on with the metal set from advance?

 

[tensixniner]

Bringing this one back up, I got my southbend in finally and have noticed lately that the clutch is engaging further down to the floor. I crawled underneath tonight to check out the slave and see if it was leaking down like the last one. It was bone dry but I noticed that the slave wiggles around and is loose even though it is locked in by the tabs. Does anyone else have something like this going on with the metal set from advance?

I'm running the cast slave right now with the factory master. No problems with either.
Slave shouldn't move around much if at all. Shouldn't be too difficult to remove and install either.

Pull the slave and check the three tabs that lock it in.
If it wasn't installed correctly last time and the tabs weren't engaged completely they will get damaged and break off eventually.

Remove the slave pushrod and see if the piston seal is leaking.
Make sure the plastic caps are still on both ends of the pushrod too.
If there's no sign of a leak or damage the slave is fine.
When you reinstall the slave make sure the plastic pushrod cap seats in its release lever dimple.
Make sure the seal that goes between the slave and bellhousing is still there.

Ford only sells a complete hydraulic system but you can buy the pieces seperately if you look up a 2007 6.0L. I got them from Rockauto.

If you don't see a problem with the hydraulic system you may have a bent release lever.

Which clutch did you get?

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

I'm running the cast slave right now with the factory master. No problems with either.
Slave shouldn't move around much if at all. Shouldn't be too difficult to remove and install either.

Pull the slave and check the three tabs that lock it in.
If it wasn't installed correctly last time and the tabs weren't engaged completely they will get damaged and break off eventually.

Remove the slave pushrod and see if the piston seal is leaking.
Make sure the plastic caps are still on both ends of the pushrod too.
If there's no sign of a leak or damage the slave is fine.
When you reinstall the slave make sure the plastic pushrod cap seats in its release lever dimple.
Make sure the seal that goes between the slave and bellhousing is still there.

Ford only sells a complete hydraulic system but you can buy the pieces seperately if you look up a 2007 6.0L. I got them from Rockauto.

If you don't see a problem with the hydraulic system you may have a bent release lever.

Which clutch did you get?

I wonder if maybe it was a bad casting or something...I've got my original motorcraft one in the garage I'll pull out and compare them. I'll get a video of the slave tomorrow, its loose enough I can jiggle it around by hand.

I'm thinking I may just order a willwood like was done above, do that, a new master, braided line, and a bracket on the firewall where the master mounts so it's solid, I guess they can flex at the firewall and cause issues as well. I emailed southbend to see what the spec is as far as throw I should be getting for proper engagement.

I doubt it's a bent lever, I went ahead and replaced mine while I was in there with the 'stronger' one, it was identical to the one I pulled out. I think I have air in the system, or maybe the whole thing just isn't up to snuff with the new pressure plate, vs the old one that was nice and broken in.

I got the 475hp single. No need for a dd for this guy...now if I can get it to shift worth a damn I'll be a happy camper, just in time to sell it :lame:

 

[hwrdbd]

Sounds like air. Did you bleed it? I found it worked for me to pull the slave out of tranny and push it against something under the truck, forcing air back up to the reservoir, while someone up top watched fluid levels/for bubbles.

 

[sniper_101]

I've been running a pre-bled plastic setup for nearly 3 years with no issues *so far*. The slave does wiggle a good bit in the trans since new. Doesn't make a person feel easy, but it's held. Looking into that Wilwood slave right now.

Another issue I want to address ASAP is the master/clutch pedal rod "bushing". The one that came with this clutch setup wore out a year ago, and I put the one in that was there before, but it's almost gone. I don't want to feel that rod pop off and put me into the back of a car, or not let me stop safely this winter. I'm going to pull the clutch pedal arm off, weld on a longer pin and either do a nylon lock nut, or a cotter pin with a washer. That little ****ty plastic "bushing" is a damn joke. The plastic slave is the 2nd biggest beef I have with these trucks. Build the thing to haul anything you want, but cheap out on the easiest **** to beef up, ridiculous. I mean it's not like you change gears a lot when you haul or anything...

 

[tensixniner]

I wonder if maybe it was a bad casting or something...I've got my original motorcraft one in the garage I'll pull out and compare them. I'll get a video of the slave tomorrow, its loose enough I can jiggle it around by hand.

I'm thinking I may just order a willwood like was done above, do that, a new master, braided line, and a bracket on the firewall where the master mounts so it's solid, I guess they can flex at the firewall and cause issues as well. I emailed southbend to see what the spec is as far as throw I should be getting for proper engagement.

I doubt it's a bent lever, I went ahead and replaced mine while I was in there with the 'stronger' one, it was identical to the one I pulled out. I think I have air in the system, or maybe the whole thing just isn't up to snuff with the new pressure plate, vs the old one that was nice and broken in.

I got the 475hp single. No need for a dd for this guy...now if I can get it to shift worth a damn I'll be a happy camper, just in time to sell it :lame:

No need for a bracket on the firewall. The clutch master attaches direct to the pedal assembly so sheetmetal flex isn't a problem.

Do you have any pics of your "stronger" release lever?

As mentioned above pull the slave and work the pushrod slowly to get the air out. Keep the hose as vertical as you can.

 

[tensixniner]

I've been running a pre-bled plastic setup for nearly 3 years with no issues *so far*. The slave does wiggle a good bit in the trans since new. Doesn't make a person feel easy, but it's held. Looking into that Wilwood slave right now.

Another issue I want to address ASAP is the master/clutch pedal rod "bushing". The one that came with this clutch setup wore out a year ago, and I put the one in that was there before, but it's almost gone. I don't want to feel that rod pop off and put me into the back of a car, or not let me stop safely this winter. I'm going to pull the clutch pedal arm off, weld on a longer pin and either do a nylon lock nut, or a cotter pin with a washer. That little ****ty plastic "bushing" is a damn joke. The plastic slave is the 2nd biggest beef I have with these trucks. Build the thing to haul anything you want, but cheap out on the easiest **** to beef up, ridiculous. I mean it's not like you change gears a lot when you haul or anything...

You can cut the bushing eye off the master pushrod and weld on a rod end.
Keep the rod the same length.

Grind the weld off the backside of the pin on the pedal and knock it out.
Put a bolt through the hole and the rod end.
Pretty sure it's a 3/8" hole.

 

[powerstrokenstang]

Kinda forgot about this. I had to switch to a 7/8" bore master to get the right stroke out of that 7/8" bore slave but it has been working like a dream. Pedal pressure is so light after not being in it for awhile and pushing it i wonder if it went bad or blew a line. I dont put alot of use on mine but for the cost and great functioning of my setup i would def not be afraid to try using it on a dd. my new master is a howe from summit for any interested.

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

I'll try to post again. I had a nice long post written and tapatalk deleted it. My clutch pedal went back to being spongy. It's getting air in it so I'm going to order new hydros.

The flex I'm getting at the master is where the body of it mounts to the firewall. it mounts into plastic and that is what is flexing.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

No need for a bracket on the firewall. The clutch master attaches direct to the pedal assembly so sheetmetal flex isn't a problem.

Do you have any pics of your "stronger" release lever?

As mentioned above pull the slave and work the pushrod slowly to get the air out. Keep the hose as vertical as you can.

The stronger lever is just the OEM one with rolled edges top and bottom so they don't crack. Its supposed to be a better design.

I need to get the new hydros in and go from there. I'm tired of this thing shifting like crap. Its got a nice clutch now that is jerky as all hell because my clutch engages in the first 4" off the floorboard.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[HaysKSFirefighter]

I think I figured out the flex/wiggle issue for the master. The plastic where the tabs sit are wearing down from the master and making it wiggle more. Its hard to see in the picture but the valleys where the tabs are, are worn down more.

Got some new hydros in and the pedal is better. Though I only feel resistance in half the pedal or so. At least the clutch isn't engaging an inch or two off the floor now. I'm still not happy with the way it feels. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I may just build my own setup like posted above. I'm tired of these stupid hydros with no bleeders. The genius who came up with the design needs to get a swift kick in the sperm warmers. /end rant.

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[estew6.4]

So did the end new clutch pedal bracket solve your problem? I installed a South Bend 3600# clutch was shifting like a dream for about 200 miles then it just stopped disengaging but still had plenty of pressure in the pedal. Bought new hydraulics exact same thing plenty of pressure no disengagement. Noticed that master was flexing I don't know if that's normal or not. So I'm wondering if a new bracket fixed your problem mine looks worn like yours.

 

[gorace]

Any updates on this I'm dealing g with the same issue and a dd.