Valve Spring?

[GreenF350]

Stupid question, but figured the only thing bad that can come from asking is I look stupid...that's nothing new. Haha.

The Comp 910 springs don't have a top or bottom right? Meaning they can't be put in "upside down"?

I've already got them installed on one side, but with all the stuff I am messing with under the valve covers I just want to make sure if something gives it up, it isn't my fault.
-Aaron

 

[onebad7.3]

Stupid question, but figured the only thing bad that can come from asking is I look stupid...that's nothing new. Haha.

The Comp 910 springs don't have a top or bottom right? Meaning they can't be put in "upside down"?

I've already got them installed on one side, but with all the stuff I am messing with under the valve covers I just want to make sure if something gives it up, it isn't my fault.
-Aaron

No, there isn't any top or bottom.

 

[GreenF350]

Cool. I didn't think so, but sometimes it's the little things you never think about that get ya. Just making sure. Thanks!
-Aaron

 

[dsberman94]

Good thinking on your part and smart to ask

 

[MossBack]

Did you pull the seal up to put the shim under it?


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[GreenF350]

Did you pull the seal up to put the shim under it?


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Yes...Measured them out and shimmed appropriately. Went on the tight side if I couldn't get exact. (smallest shim I had or could find was .015") Went pretty smooth. Only weird thing was my seals (New ones) mesured at about .035"-.040". I thought maybe my cheapish calipers were just off, but it measured the .015" and .030" shims accurately so....I dunno. By my math I shouldn't run into any issues like coil bind, even if my measurements were that far off....worst case I end up with a little extra seat pressure since as far as I can tell I was shooting for 1.78" installed height and coild bind is around 1.28". My research says it's just under .400" lift at the valve on a stock cam so that leaves me .100" of room minus any measurement errors.

Just gotta get into the passenfer side now. I started removing the dang heater box yesterday (That's more complicated than I thought it would be) and got rained on so I gave up...probably won't be able to work on it until Christmas eve, but hopefully I can finish up this week.
-Aaron

 

[lariat 7.3]

i've had mine sitting on the bench since last december. How hard is it to do in truck

 

[GreenF350]

Valve springs have been easy so far. The head studs were pretty brutal though.
-Aaron

 

[lariat 7.3]

Torquing them or just overall

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[GreenF350]

The torque process. Getting an angle that worked and I could push/pull hard enough. The install was pretty easy other than that. I still haven't done the drivers side, but if I can get the room next to the evaporator box by taking the cover off it shouldn't be much different.
-Aaron

 

[lariat 7.3]

Did you rock the motor? Thought you didn't have to remove the A/c box

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[MossBack]

Ac box is way easier then unbolt ing and rocking the motor. Especially when working by yourself it is amazing how long getting up and down off the truck tAkes.


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[GreenF350]

I didn't realize it was an either/or sort of situation. I thought it required both. I wish I would have known because so far the rocking of the motor would have been easier. Oh well....headed out now to put in some work. I will probably see about just rocking the motor then. I will post back with how it goes.....might not get to the head studs on that side until tomorrow though.
-Aaron

 

[GreenF350]

Ok....Well, I already had the heater box all unbolted and couldn't get it out without jacking up the motor, but I can say this....There is a ton of room with the heater box removed AND the engine jacked up on the one side. It seems like it comes up higher on the passenger side than the driver's side. Looks like everything will be just as easy to get to as the other side. Only was outside for a bit tonight, but got the injectors, rockers, glow plugs and UVCH removed. Found that the very end of the plug at the valve cover of my UVCH was melted....presumably from a bad glow plug since I never noticed it. I will be replacing it anyway, but will probably ohm out the glow plugs just to see. Don't know if any of that information helps anyone, but....whatever. int:
-Aaron

 

[MossBack]

That is all good to know... I started thinking while I was pulling injectors tonight that you are doing studs... So I assume you need way more room to slid them in.

Tonight I got all 8 injectors out in 3 hours and this time I left the heater box together and I got them out...


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[dsberman94]

Injectors on a 7.3 has no need to remove anything but the cac pipes if you have them and valve covers. Studs you will have to remove the heater box if doing them in truck.

 

[lariat 7.3]

You can do studs with the box still installed I believe

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[V-Ref]

Studs you will have to remove the heater box if doing them in truck.

Nope. This is wrong.

1. Loosen motor mounts.

2. Loosen trans xmember mount.

3. Put floor jack shimmed w/ a 2x6 on exhaust manifold.

4. Jack until motor achieves sufficient "tilt" to slip the stud in.

 

[lariat 7.3]

Knew it...Lol

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[GreenF350]

Since I took mine out I can't confirm or deny either way. I CAN tell you that mine is tight enough on that side that no matter how hard I tried I had to rock the motor up just to get the heater box out. Doing that along with rocking the motor over made it easy. (Well, as easy as leaning that far over the motor to work can be). Mine seemed to be able to rock over farther that direction thant from the other side though and it's possible that it might go far enough to keep from having to take the heater box out.

If you are dead set against removing the heater box....jack up the motor and try it that way, if it doesn't work for you, take the heater box apart. No harm, no foul and it will come apart easier with the motor jacked up.
-Aaron