Valvetrain upgrades

windrunner408

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Just ordered a set of Smith Bros pushrods. Sticking with stock valve train for the rest of it all.
 

Mdub707

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I was looking at smith bros pushrods and gogo pushrods for this recent head job on my truck. It basically boiled down to you should do the pushrods and valve springs together. I was going to just put pushrods in by themselves without the springs, but was told I was better off not doing that, as the added weight of the pushrods without the springs would cause the valves to float easier. I then realized there was really no point in doing any of it since I wouldn't be revving it very high all the time or running anything crazy power wise.
 

windrunner408

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I was looking at smith bros pushrods and gogo pushrods for this recent head job on my truck. It basically boiled down to you should do the pushrods and valve springs together. I was going to just put pushrods in by themselves without the springs, but was told I was better off not doing that, as the added weight of the pushrods without the springs would cause the valves to float easier.

Why is this?? Who said you shouldn't do push rods without the springs?? So are you saying that the slight difference in weight of the pushrods when they're moving is causing the valves to float because of the little bit extra inertia?? Is there any proof of this??

Sorry for the slew of questions but it just doesn't make sense to me and if you could, it would be nice to hear more information.
 

Mdub707

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I had never really thought about it until it was pointed out to me, I'm pretty sure Doug from GoGo was the one who told me this (maybe not, I was talking to a lot of people at the time). Logically it makes a ton of sense, extra mass being thrown around at 4k RPM's...

The advice given to me was go with stock pushrods as long as they check out fine (re-use mine). I believe this is exactly what Gare did on the white truck too.
 

ford rules

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For you guys that have upgraded, why did you decide to?
Ill be doing head studs this spring and am not sure if i want to do pushrods/valve springs yet. I will be doing a ported intake manifold at the same time i do the studs. Injectors/turbo is all stock would it be a good upgrade or just save the money.
 

05wh250

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For you guys that have upgraded, why did you decide to?
Ill be doing head studs this spring and am not sure if i want to do pushrods/valve springs yet. I will be doing a ported intake manifold at the same time i do the studs. Injectors/turbo is all stock would it be a good upgrade or just save the money.

I think it depends on your end goals. I was told when you get above 65 psi backpressure. I did it because i was upgrading injectors and going for power.
 

Mdub707

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For you guys that have upgraded, why did you decide to?
Ill be doing head studs this spring and am not sure if i want to do pushrods/valve springs yet. I will be doing a ported intake manifold at the same time i do the studs. Injectors/turbo is all stock would it be a good upgrade or just save the money.


I had all the same questions and am doing the same thing right now, basically came to the conclusion stock was fine for now. Maybe next year I'll pull it and do a cam and at that time I will do the valvetrain stuff as well.
 

windrunner408

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I am kind of in a similar situation as well. I've decided that I am going to do the pushrods with stock springs and a .030" shim to add a little bump in spring pressure for the slightly heavier push rod. It sounded reasonable as .030" is pretty thin and shims are cheap in comparison to heavier springs and since I don't run more than about 40psi of boost, I figure I should be good.
 

Mdub707

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Why not try and actually calculate what thickness shim you need to get to the spring rate you want? It shouldn't be very difficult...

I like that idea though, saves you the cost of the valve springs if you've got an easy way to machine them. Good call, I might go that route myself. Keep us posted on that.
 

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