Washing/Detailing

04cr450 · Mar 28, 2017

ckrueg said:
I would love to find a reasonably priced system for that. I don't mind washing it, it's they drying that I hate. A deionized would work, but those are quite expensive.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Use a leaf blower to dry vehicle. Makes it fun and no spots at all. Been doing this for years now. I love washing vehicles but hate drying as well.

ckrueg · Mar 28, 2017

04cr450 said:
Use a leaf blower to dry vehicle. Makes it fun and no spots at all. Been doing this for years now. I love washing vehicles but hate drying as well.

I'll try that tonight when I wash it!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

04cr450 · Mar 28, 2017

Jomax said:
Waterless and rinseless are two different things.

If you have mud, of course you need a full wash. But even then. You could pressure wash the truck down, then proceed to rinseless wash.

Look up the Garry Dean method for Rinse less washing.

99% of people scratch their vehicles washing it the old fashion way. Even then it's Not safe.

I'm OCD too. But use rinseless washes without hesitation.

This car has only had Rinseless washes since new. Zero swirls or scratches.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i totally get what you are saying but you will not scratch a vehicle when washing with soap and water if you use a microfiber rang or a broken in fiber sponge( i use that).
Also, pictures of vehicle paint online / photos will always look amazing, its when you get up and close with a paint surface when you will see imperfections. My truck that is brand new was not in the best of shape and needed paint correction and 4 layers of skin on it to shine like it should. But pictures even up close- the paint looked perfect.
Also, most car owners do not necessarily scratch their paint when washing.. its drying the car. This is why i always blow dry it, it works. I just think that a good old micro fiber towel with a high quality spray wax can clean the car just as if not more effectively as the rinse less wash. Am i way off? It may be just my ignorance lol

UpstateDieselGuy · Mar 28, 2017

Worth a look. I'm considering one myself.
Griot's Garage DI System

ckrueg · Mar 28, 2017

The leaf worked ok, but I definitely need a bigger one. Took almost an hour.

Swampfox · Mar 28, 2017

I use Adam's polishes products on my vehicles. For drying I use this little blower and it works great. Below is a pic after washing and drying the other day. I clay barred and polished it back in October when I got it since it sat on the lot quite a while.

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/accessories/brushes/adam-s-blaster-sidekick.html

PSDEng · Mar 29, 2017

So I did a two stage paint correction on Saturday. I started with v34 and an orange pad then finished with v38 and a white pad. I had some issues with the v34 drying out real quick and flinging specks of product dust everywhere. I was using pad condition and obviously I wasn't doing it in direct sunlight.

Has anybody ever had this type of issue with this polish/pad combo?

Jomax · Mar 29, 2017

ckrueg said:
I'll try that tonight when I wash it!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Only works well if the truck has a coat of wax or sealant. Doesn't work too well if it doesn't.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jomax · Mar 29, 2017

PSDEng said:
So I did a two stage paint correction on Saturday. I started with v34 and an orange pad then finished with v38 and a white pad. I had some issues with the v34 drying out real quick and flinging specks of product dust everywhere. I was using pad condition and obviously I wasn't doing it in direct sunlight.

Has anybody ever had this type of issue with this polish/pad combo?

How much product are you using? Less is more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jomax · Mar 29, 2017

ckrueg said:
The leaf worked ok, but I definitely need a bigger one. Took almost an hour.

Yup, unless you have a freshly waxed truck (less then 3 months. It doesn't work too good.

Bet bet is DI filter and just walk away. In Az the water is so hard, that in 5min there are water spots that start etching.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ckrueg · Mar 29, 2017

Jomax said:
Yup, unless you have a freshly waxed truck (less then 3 months. It doesn't work too good.

Bet bet is DI filter and just walk away. In Az the water is so hard, that in 5min there are water spots that start etching.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What wax do you recommend, the stuff I use seems to be stripped off within a month. I've been waxing once a month but it just doesn't last

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

PSDEng · Mar 29, 2017

Jomax said:
How much product are you using? Less is more.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Four dots per let's say an area 20-25% the size of the hood.

Jomax · Mar 30, 2017

ckrueg said:
What wax do you recommend, the stuff I use seems to be stripped off within a month. I've been waxing once a month but it just doesn't last

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Meguiars ultimate paste wax gives me 3 months in AZ. For an over the counter product. It's amazing. It goes on THIN, smells amazing, can be applied in the sun, and is super easy to remove.

When waxing I will clay the truck first, you need to test the paint with a ziplock bag to see how contaminated it is and go from there. If you clay, most of the time you need to follow with a polish. Depends on how anal you are.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jomax · Mar 30, 2017

PSDEng said:
Four dots per let's say an area 20-25% the size of the hood.

Did you first prime the pad with product? Spread out product like you're putting butter on a piece of bread. Then put your 4 dots. Never used this particular product.

I personally hate chemical guys. So much marketing for an okay product. The meguiars ultimate line will make any newbie get stellar results. Megs ultimate compound followed by ultimate polish, and topped with megs ultimate wax(really it's a synthetic sealant) will make any vehicle beautiful.

Best of all? It's cheap!!!

I use meguiars professional line, there's more of a learning curve though. Plus some of their compounds if you aren't careful can eat up your clear lol.

Another good brand for compounds and polishes is Griots Garage and Menzerna.

So much to learn in the auto detailing world!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Izzybird · Mar 30, 2017

Jomax said:
When waxing I will clay the truck first, you need to test the paint with a ziplock bag to see how contaminated it is and go from there.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting, had to google that.

Jomax · Mar 30, 2017

Izzybird said:
Interesting, had to google that.

Try it, it's crazy how rough the paint is. Wax will only last on how good the paint is prepped. It's kind be like painting something without priming. Won't last as long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

04cr450 · Mar 30, 2017

This is why you "seal" your clear coat. .. it's not waxing, you can never have enough sealant on your paint. You can technically seal your paint every time you wash the vehicle. Granted if ther are no scratches or dirt, acid rain to take out first.

TripleE44 · Mar 30, 2017

PSDEng said:
So I did a two stage paint correction on Saturday. I started with v34 and an orange pad then finished with v38 and a white pad. I had some issues with the v34 drying out real quick and flinging specks of product dust everywhere. I was using pad condition and obviously I wasn't doing it in direct sunlight.

Has anybody ever had this type of issue with this polish/pad combo?

I had dusting with Chemical Guys V line of polishes. I've since moved on from them to Shine Supply mainly.

Jomax said:
Did you first prime the pad with product? Spread out product like you're putting butter on a piece of bread. Then put your 4 dots. Never used this particular product.

I personally hate chemical guys. So much marketing for an okay product. The meguiars ultimate line will make any newbie get stellar results. Megs ultimate compound followed by ultimate polish, and topped with megs ultimate wax(really it's a synthetic sealant) will make any vehicle beautiful.

Best of all? It's cheap!!!

I use meguiars professional line, there's more of a learning curve though. Plus some of their compounds if you aren't careful can eat up your clear lol.

Another good brand for compounds and polishes is Griots Garage and Menzerna.

So much to learn in the auto detailing world!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've grown to hate Chemical guys also. 20 different types of everything, all advertised to have their own specific uses. Overhyped and all that. I bought into it at one point, obviously.

I've moved onto Shine Supply and CarPro just like Blake said earlier in the thread. Shine Supply polishes and compounds seem to be a lot more efficient, and even the heavier ones finish down incredibly well. The rest of their stuff is good too, but the tire cleaner and polishes are really my favorites.

I've used the megs polishes, but I never really seemed to get great results from them. Not really sure why, seems like I hear a lot of people loving them.

PSDEng · Mar 30, 2017

Interesting.... I've had pretty good experiences with the rest of the v line.....and the other products I've used from CG. I know they do a good job at marketing, but beyond that I still think they have good products. Either way I'm going to try and use more pad conditioner the next time I use v34 and see if that reduces some of the dusting.