Buffalo444
New member
I still say go with hybrids (unless Farmers' 160's are hybrids) even if they are small 200/30, 200/80, 200/100's. Less oil required will save you money on a new HPOP in the end.
I still say go with hybrids (unless Farmers' 160's are hybrids) even if they are small 200/30, 200/80, 200/100's. Less oil required will save you money on a new HPOP in the end.
Dont see the need...
I've run stage 1's... Stage 2's... 238/80 and 238/100... 250/200 all with a stock HPOP...
The 160/100 injector would not tax the HPO system anymore then a set of 200cc hybrids.
Idk, will see, Tuning is key.
160s have made anywhere from 400 to 480 on Beans dyno I've read, the 480 was considered a freak of nature.
As injectors are pretty much the last item to go in, they could get bigger, if I find a good deal on here as I see quite often. Will see.
I don't get the opinion that overbuilding is a waste of time and money. I'll keep looking around at what guys have or don't have and go from there.
Thanks all !
Excursion with 160's and a 38R on PMR's... (lightly tuned & driven ?
That thought crossed my mind.... but I drive the snot out of my truck, I don't care to take the risk.
I spend a lot of time off road in the desert, so a busted rod is something I cant deal with 30 miles from no where.
Will just see what happends, if I end up going bigger because of a good deal, then its all good.
I'd rather build and have room for growth. Just me I guess
Joe, there's no "need", youre right. But, adding more oil volume makes the truck so much snappier and fun to drive. I thought my 250/80's were fine on the stock pump but damn did the second pump really wake the truck up!
On edit- the truck my engine went into (with the dual pumps still) is running 160cc a codes on stock nozzles, and there is a definite improvement in off-boost torque and also top-end pull with the dual oil pump setup
So what I gather, which is hard to swallow....a bone stock rebuild with studs will reliably stay together at 550 ?????
So what I gather, which is hard to swallow....a bone stock rebuild with studs will reliably stay together at 550 ?????
Who said that?
I will say this...
I have over 60k on a 100% stock 170k USED motor... With 250/200, Modded H2e and water injection, with ARP studs...
I drive it hard every day, from one end of the country to the other...
This is not 2007... DP tuner is not tuning your motor...
There is NO reason to do a build like you are talking about for 160's... Or 238's... OR even 250's.
I know you're set with your opinion and not normally open to hearing new ideas, however i didnt do it for the peak HP gain (although i did pick up over 60hp)
It was night and day difference driving on the street 99% of the time when i wasnt making the peak HP, just driving it on the street having a good time like 99% of us do.
Who said that?
I will say this...
I have over 60k on a 100% stock 170k USED motor... With 250/200, Modded H2e and water injection, with ARP studs...
I drive it hard every day, from one end of the country to the other...
This is not 2007... DP tuner is not tuning your motor...
There is NO reason to do a build like you are talking about for 160's... Or 238's... OR even 250's.
even valve springs joe?
reason i ask is im sure i drive my truck just as hard and drive it hard even with my 10k lb fifth wheel on the back and mine is 100% bone stock but ive bent 7 pushrods and think im on my 8th now.... which is why its going under the knife and the heads are gonna get freshened up and valve springs added....
I know you're set with your opinion and not normally open to hearing new ideas, however i didnt do it for the peak HP gain (although i did pick up over 60hp)
It was night and day difference driving on the street 99% of the time when i wasnt making the peak HP, just driving it on the street having a good time like 99% of us do.
couldnt agree more.....totally makes a difference....