What to do while its parked?

[DEEZUZ]

Since I bought the GTP the truck sits mon-fri and I only take it out on the weekends. I dont want to necessarily say its parked, but while its down I want to start getting some things done to it. Not so much performance wise, just maintenance.

I already have a coolant filter on it with ELC. Oil side I have the Amsoil dual-bypass. I want to focus mainly on cleaning up the fuel side. Along with the H&H mod, I want to add an inline seperator. I believe Im going with the kit from Strickly... I also think Im picking up a FRX. I want to keep the stock pump and stock bowl, so going with an Airdog setup is not my taste. I've seen way too many fail in this business for no apparent reason.

I have a small oil leak that I believe is coming from the EBPV. Whats all involved in deleting it?

The truck is basically stock with tunes from Beans, a GTP38R, a DI one-piece up pipe, and a Amsoil dry filter.

Any other suggestions? Im battling a oil aerition problem also, but I think its pick-up tube related and I wont touch that til it finally breaks off and doesnt start. Debating on doing injector o-rings and harness's... I know soon after I re-seal them the cups will probably be up for changing...

thanks

 

[TARM]

I would do the following:

* Flush the PS pump and refill with Schaeffer All Trans or another fully syn trans fluid.

* Drain and refill both axles use fully syn gear oil ( use the same up front that is called for in the rear) Schaeffer again if you can get it.

* Drain and refill the transfer case Same deal on fluid.

* If you have not done the transmission lately do same as above

* Completely flush your brake system and refill with Super Blue or other top end super high heat fluid.

* Grease all your ball joints.

* Grease the driveshaft ends.

* Pull your front unit bearings. Grease the main bearings thru the anti-lock brake sensor hole. Grease the needle bearing from the rear.

* Break down the locking hubs and grease them up.

For the fuel system:

Just a FYI you can use the Air Dog 1 and it will only act as the lift pump to the SD pump. They do not fail as they only are low pressure. But if you do not want to spend the money. I would look at adding a Baldwin FB1311 filter base and then a Donaldson Water fuel sep. Now if you want to get things ideal you could add a Carter P4600 before or after the W/F sep. The Donaldson's can handle positive or vacuum pressure. If you do a search on here I listed everyone plus their flow and filter post size. They go down to 3mic rating with less that 1 psi pressure dif. I would also find and use Donaldson or OEM Racor filters for the fuel bowl as they are 5 mic which is better than others. But it would IMO be better to have a 3mic down there and use the bowl one just in case something breaks lose from the pump.

If you want to say lower cost go with that FRX thing.


There are a number of threads on the leaking EBPV fixes. I have not had to do one as I just remove the whole deal when I swap turbos

 

[DEEZUZ]

Once again, great post man..

PS system, never thought much of it, but thats a great place to start.

both axles have been drained, cleaned, and fille diwth Amsoil 75W140. The rear axle though, every time I pull the plug, it has metallics on it. Like its getting worn out bad... One of those things where I'll wait til it explodes before I fix...

T-case is done, as is trans, with filter. I just need to drain it and refill another 6 qts than it should be good for awhile.

Brake system could be easy to do, just need a second person when bleeding it a final time. What do you do, just open all four and let them go til empty or add new as old drains?

both driveshafts will get new joints before winter, adding zerks.

Unit bearings I assume you mean front wheel bearings?

Locking hubs are only a year old, and I guess I can grease them through old vacuum fitting on spindle, right?

 

[ColtonP]

Why swap to synthetic fluids?

 

[kicker417]

What fluid does the transfer case used

 

[old man dave]

Why swap to synthetic fluids?

Using synthetic trans fluid in power steering gives better road feel.

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

EBPV delete is easy. Pull the turbo and pedestal. Next, take the exhaust flange off of the turbo and grind off the pins that hold the flap to the rod. The rod will then just slide out. Once it is out use a 20mm freeze plug to go in the hole where the rod was. The Dorman part number is 555-101 for the freeze plug. Pound the plug into the hole deep enough so you can put the snap ring back in. Now just put the exhaust flange back onto the turbo,

Once you have that complete then you can work on deleting the EBPV from the pedestal. First, take the snap ring off of the EBPV piston cap. Then take the cap off. Next, get the EBPV piston out. Cut about 1 1/2 inches off of the threaded rod. Once you do that then tap the hole that the rob went through to 1/4 NPT and install a 1/4 NPT pipe plug into that hole. Now you can put the rod and piston back into the cylinder, and put the piston cap and snap ring back on.

Reinstall the pedestal and turbo.

You can plug the EBPV connector back in so you dont get any soft codes.

I know it sounds confusing, but it is very simple... If you don't want to do all that, than just buy the deleted pedestal and the high flow exhaust housing flange.


Also, I have the FRx and love it. Pretty simple to install, and quiets the injectors down quite a bit when cruising.

 

[Dieselboy.]

Melling LPOP.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Why would I do an oil pump?

 

[TARM]

because the melling is a superior pump in everyway. More volume is never a bad thing with our engines. But unless your pressure is lower than normal its not NEEDED.

By Unit bearings I am speaking of the unit that the auto locking hub slide into and that had 4 studs and bolts to the Knuckle. They are made by Timken. And no you can not lube thru the vacuum port it only would end up on the outside of the unit bearing. You need to pull the anit lock brake sensor and you lube thru that. Do a search I wrote an post on it all with tons of pictures. If you are running aftermarket locking hubs then lube htem per their instructions. If they are the factory auto hubs goto guzzles page and follow those. They should be pulled apart once a year min. I turn my locking hubs manual auto doesn't matter every time I fill up while I wait. Keeps everything lubes and turning easy. I would do the unit bearings mentioned above as part of yearly maintenance.

The brakes you can do yourself if you pick up the mighty vac bleeder kit. SOOOOOOO nice to have. Get the one that hooks up to shop air and you can use it to suck fluids out such a PS res or the cylinders when you do a injector swap.

 

[Arisley]

Bleeding, I always simply gravity bleed. I have found it is the simplest and the surest way to remove all air. By no means is it the fastest though. All you do is sit back and BS and sip beer and get up and refill the reservoir every once in a while. Usually takes about three beers to do properly.

 

[DEEZUZ]

so basically open up all bleeders and keep adding new fluid til you see new coming out?

 

[Arisley]

Yep. Attach a piece of clear hose to the bleeder valve. That makes it easier to see and also to drain into an appropriate container. Can't pour that stuff on the ground you know.

 

[Lowdown89]

Does anyone have a good write up on flushing the PS fluid? His is one thing I'm sure my truck can use as it looks pretty nasty... I searched but didn't come up with much I also need to flush my brakes, is the gravity method Really that simple? Just open up all the bleaders at once and keep filling up the reservoir with new fluid until the fluid coming out of the bleaders are fresh and then bleed them like normal? With all the new found power the truck has I'm really trying to get all the other mechanical stuff working good as well and these are 2 thins I really want to adress

 

[Arisley]

Gravity bleeding is even simpler than that. When fresh fluid is coming out the bleeders, simply tighten up the bleeders and call it done. No air in the lines whatsoever.

 

[TARM]

Here is a good write up http://www.superdutypsd.com/power_steering_flush.php

 

[Lowdown89]

Thanks guys! As soon as I get the truck back I will certInly be doing these 2 things for sure!

 

[02POWERSTROKE7.3]

What brake fluid is recommended?

 

[TARM]

ATE Super Blue/TYP 200
Brembo LCF600
MOTUL RBF600

And then the very best of the best :

CASTROL SRF

And should be at 2-3x the cost of the others. But its still just a drop in the bucket when you consider its only a every 2 yr kind of thing to have to do a flush on the brake system.

The ATE is nice in that it comes in two colors so you can see very clearly when you do a flush that you have fresh fluid.

Brembo has a slightly better dry heat point but Motul has a even better wet but only a 2 degree lower dry than Brembo. They are both very good.

Castrol is in the same range dry but blows it away with 60+ degrees better wet perf.


Just remember to only get what you are going to use. Once brake fluid is open it needs to be used right then. It will pull in moisture no matter what you do so after a couple days and you are sure everything is good toss what you have left over.

Something some many not know about brake fluid perf: If you ever have brake fade at all. Then you in all likelihood have boiled/burn the fluid at calipers that the fade has occurred at. That fluid will no longer work as well. You need to bleed a small amount at those calipers to pull fresh fluid in and get rid of the burn fluid. Not a full flush, just enough to cover whats in the caliper and the flex tubing. As these systems do not circulate only the fluid at the caliper sees heat and needs replacing from fade cause burn/boiling. Moisture is why we need to do full flushes regardless every 1-2 yrs depending on climate and perf use. Only open the brake res when you absolutely need to as you are letting moisture in every second its open.

Many see a dramatic change in brake perf by doing a full flush and replacing stock hose with high quality SS teflon to prevent hose swell under pressure.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Well, everything got put on hold as one of my quads went down and its riding season.

I decided Im going to install a Melling LPOP first, to see if it aids with the oil airetion. Even after the Moly treatment, my engine still idles rough hot. If this still does not help, the engine is coming out when it cools down outside and I'll dig into it further. I have a forged rod motor sittingin the garage, but I want to get as much life out of this engine as possible.