Which Truck

[doo dah]

I am in the market for a tow rig. I have a '12 F350 which I have used to pull our 36' TT but we recently sold that and are going to a 5th wheel. My truck too tall so looking for 7.3, 6.0, or 6.4 CC to haul a 40-42' 5th wheel. I'm not ruling out a Dmax or Cummins but it has to be a crew cab so other than the MegaCab Dodge is likely out because I'm trying to stay under $15k and would spend as little at 7-8k for the right truck. I have seen the opinions of not buying a 6.0 that has been "bulletproofed" but what about 6.4s? I found a '04 F350 4x4 dually that has studs, new oil cooler, coolant filter, EGR ******, etc...for under $10k but otherwise they are fetching big $$ here in Texas. Obviously at the price range I'm in, the truck is going to have 150k or more on the clock but since the truck is pretty much towing the fiver only I'm not overly concerned, hell I have 185k on my '12 6.7!

 

[dboat]

Having bought one recently in Dallas, your best bet is to look out of state. They are just darned pricey here.


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[WHY NOT]

Lift the camper or lower your truck a little bit?

 

[doo dah]

Can't lift a trailer high enough and it would be a shame to take the lift and tires down but I did think about that. It really is just how I want it and have always wanted a truck to sit. There are a number of 6.0s around but paying 18k for a 10 yr old truck with 200k on the clock gives me heartburn. I found an 06 Mega Cab with the 5.9 and manual for 23k but not sure I can spend that much. Might have to buy one with a bad engine and put a reman in to stay in budget.

 

[ghohouston]

6.0's and 6.4's are turds, no matter how hard people polish them. 6.4's are much more expensive turds though. If you buy a 6.0 "bulletproofed" and the injectors have not been replaced, go ahead and count on replacing them. And beyond that, lifters too. Lots of people skip over lifters. 6.4's are horrible about cracking pistons, the rocker arms wear, etc.

 

[Jomax]

I vote lower your truck.


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[UpstateDieselGuy]

At your price point it will unfortunately be a money pit. You're going to have to go older and higher miles.

 

[8WR_ZJ]

Keep your truck the way it it. My shop truck has 40's with 4.88 gears and I tow a 39' 5th wheel with mine. I have this http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3220--aluminum-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-2-gooseneck-version.aspx
I called them and they made a custom height one and it only cost 25 bucks extra. Bolt the adapter to the 5th wheel on the trailer portion and done. There is still some adjustment in the vertical slider I can go up or down about 1.5" if I have too. This helps dial it in and have the 5th still sit level. Hope this helps.

 

[Spatel23]

I wouldnt get a 6.4 for your intended use.

 

[Geralddunbar995]

I'd buy an OBS

 

[doo dah]

Keep your truck the way it it. My shop truck has 40's with 4.88 gears and I tow a 39' 5th wheel with mine. I have this http://www.andersenhitches.com/Products/3220--aluminum-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-2-gooseneck-version.aspx
I called them and they made a custom height one and it only cost 25 bucks extra. Bolt the adapter to the 5th wheel on the trailer portion and done. There is still some adjustment in the vertical slider I can go up or down about 1.5" if I have too. This helps dial it in and have the 5th still sit level. Hope this helps.

Interesting. No lift on the trailer? How much space do you have between the bed rails and the trailer? My main concern is punching a hole in the bottom of the trailer when driving through a dip or un even terrain. I've seen trucks with 6" lifts towing fivers but they usually have 35s and the trailer sits nose high and they are general smaller trailers.

 

[tbsimmons]

Unless the fenders are cut on his truck for 40's, the trailer is lifted A LOT or has a fifth wheel bed I don't see how this is possible with modern trailers. They are tall as you know from looking. Then you get into being over 14'. If you are going to get a toyhauler, they are heavy just FYI. You might be able to get your truck under one but it would be close to the bed sides if sitting level. Depending on the hitch I 6" minimum. If it only rocks front to back you might be able to get away with 4-5" but I would watch it depending on the pin box length.
My toyhauler is (and was) taller. It fit over my 6" lift on 35's and sat level with 7" of bed clearance. Now lowered down 3" I have 9" with the new dually. The 08 450 I had about 7" range with the trailer lowered down. The bed rail of the 450 sat even with my shoulder and I am about 5-10 for comparison.
Measure your bedsides now and I can tell you if my trailer would fit over it.

 

[doo dah]

Unless the fenders are cut on his truck for 40's, the trailer is lifted A LOT or has a fifth wheel bed I don't see how this is possible with modern trailers. They are tall as you know from looking. Then you get into being over 14'. If you are going to get a toyhauler, they are heavy just FYI. You might be able to get your truck under one but it would be close to the bed sides if sitting level. Depending on the hitch I 6" minimum. If it only rocks front to back you might be able to get away with 4-5" but I would watch it depending on the pin box length.
My toyhauler is (and was) taller. It fit over my 6" lift on 35's and sat level with 7" of bed clearance. Now lowered down 3" I have 9" with the new dually. The 08 450 I had about 7" range with the trailer lowered down. The bed rail of the 450 sat even with my shoulder and I am about 5-10 for comparison.
Measure your bedsides now and I can tell you if my trailer would fit over it.

I am 5'9" and the top of my bedside is in the middle of the bridge of my nose, just below eye level.

 

[8WR_ZJ]

4" lift cut out fender flares. 1.5" lift on the 5th wheel. My 5th wheel does not sit level right now when I am hooked up to the shop truck. I have about 2.25"-2.75" from bed rail to bottom of 5th wheel base. It is close and I do have to pay attention to where I go to avoid dips tight inclined turns. I am by no means saying this is the perfect setup. Just and alternative to what the OP was wanting. I am unsure of the height of my bed rail. I will confirm when I am at the truck. Shop truck is a 2006.

 

[JRLott]

2.5" Carli, extra inch kit for the front if you simply must be taller, and a 4" or 5" traction block for your OUO traction bars. Add 35" tires and pull the 5th wheel with your current truck. Less weight and height of the tire will make it more responsive, the Carli will make it 100 times better riding resulting in a much more fun to drive and useful pickup for much less expense than and headache than a used one. You're also already paying insurance on it and performing maintenance, which makes even more fiscal sense. Unless you simply must have the phallic compensation of 37s, this is the most intelligent approach in most aspects.

 

[doo dah]

Looked at a few fivers today and both dealers said no way with my truck in it's current set up. I agree that keeping my truck and adjusting it to fit the trailer is better IF I swap out with someone looking for 6" and 37s, If I have to pay for new lift components and tires, etc...I am spending 3-4k or more which could go towards a 2nd truck. If I keep my truck I will swap components with someone that has a stock truck/wheels/tires and give them the lift wheels and tires plus they give me some cash. I'm not compensating for anything with lift and tires........I'm comfortable in pink shirts, topsiders, and Madonna on the stereo so my d**k is not why I have a lift. I just really like the way it looks on a long bed crew cab since they are so damn long.

 

[doo dah]

I'd buy an OBS

What is an OBS?

 

[Vader's Fury]

Money spent on a nice 2"-4" lift for your truck would be money better spent than buying a second older used truck.

You can always sell of your current lift to makeup some of the cost.

 

[JRLott]

Don got yer thexy pannies in a bunch you thexy tall stu...yeah ok, sorry, but 5'9" can't be considered tall.

Yes, 3-4K to make it useable. Sell the crap you take off on Craigslist or flea bay. List it on here too. That'll help cheapen it up some. The Carli suspension will make you wonder why you wasted the money on the RC for aesthetics. Even if you throw the crap in the dumpster, you're still at least $6k cheaper than another truck, and probably closer to 10k cheaper. Then you get to pay insurance on the extra pickup all year after paying the State of Texas their percentage. Pick up some platinum rims for not more than $800, some 295/65R20 tires (for high load rating and they are basically 35x11.5) for 1600, Carli front leveling kit for $910, rear Bilstien shocks for 160, and OUO or PMF traction bars for $850-$1200. That's $4600, if you don't need the adjustable trac bar you can knock about $345 off that, but then you get to sell your current lift, rims, and tires. I've absolutely no idea what they are worth, but if you can get 1600 for all of it, you're at 3k. No way in hell you can buy and maintain a second vehicle for that. A second truck will cost you at least that assuming you keep it 5 years and sell it for what you paid....that's if it doesn't break.

OBS - old body style.

Certainly do what you want. If that's keeping your 37s and buying another truck, go for it. I just find it a bit silly to pull with a lower powered, higher mileage, older likely less reliable truck, than the one that fits the keys currently in your pocket.

 

[Jomax]

You can fit 37s with a leveling kit if you have the right back spacing. I'd op for the fox commuter shocks from CARLI.


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