Who has subs in a 6.4?

Big Stroker 6.4

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How hard are you driving it? A 8w7 should rock

It sounds great for the size and it pounds hard but the problem is the councel, it vibrates the chit out of it. Be nice to pair it with something bigger like a 12 so it isnt working so hard and vibrating so bad.
 

Powerstroked162

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Ahhhh I misunderstood. A 13tw5 behind the back seat would round it out. I'll probably end up running a 10w7 in my heap. Like you, I don't need my coke bottle in the passenger seat the first time that sub hits full song lol


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Jgon08

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This.....Ask for Mike he will build it in 2 days and have it out to you in a week.

The 13" jl shallow is more than enough.

I figure I'm going with jl I've heard alot of good about them lately.
 

powerlifter405

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This.....Ask for Mike he will build it in 2 days and have it out to you in a week.

The 13" jl shallow is more than enough.

Hows the timing/speed response?
I'm running dual 10" Infinity Kappa's in a sealed box but I'd like a little more depth. But, I like the 10's since I prefer metal and I've had 12's before and they just didn't sound right when I had some double bass pantera going.

I hear a lot of good things about the JL but I'm hesitant to switch BUT I think the voice coils have started to over heat and the sound quality has declined some.
 

Daddyusmaximus

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Look into a JL Audio Stealthbox. Got my 10" Stealthbox (goes right in the center console, down firing) at Crutchfield. My JL rocks, and I could use more amp. A sealed box needs more power than a ported one, but they sound better. Now you ain't gonna wake up the whole neighborhood with a single 10", but the sound quality for you, and you passengers is unmatched with JL. It is a very tight, hard hitting, natural bottom end, not some boomy, mushy crap, like you here from thug wanna bees. If they make a Stealthbox for a '99 they surely have one for the newer trucks. It's nice to have your bottom end NOT coming from way behind you.
 
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powerlifter405

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Look into a JL Audio Stealthbox. Got my 10" Stealthbox (goes right in the center console, down firing) at Crutchfield. My JL rocks, and I could use more amp. A sealed box needs more power than a ported one, but they sound better. Now you ain't gonna wake up the whole neighborhood with a single 10", but the sound quality for you, and you passengers is unmatched with JL. It is a very tight, hard hitting, natural bottom end, not some boomy, mushy crap, like you here from thug wanna bees. If they make a Stealthbox for a '99 they surely have one for the newer trucks. It's nice to have your bottom end NOT coming from way behind you.

Im running an Alpine M6 just over 600 rms thus I was figuring it should push even the 13W just fine. Its runs really cool and doesn't drain my batter so i want to stick w/ the alpine digital series but i'm open to ideas for speakers.
I have the 40/20/40, doesnt the stealthbox require captain chairs?
 

thuglike

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Im running an Alpine M6 just over 600 rms thus I was figuring it should push even the 13W just fine. Its runs really cool and doesn't drain my batter so i want to stick w/ the alpine digital series but i'm open to ideas for speakers.
I have the 40/20/40, doesnt the stealthbox require captain chairs?[/QUOTE]

No....you can decide which side you want. Pass or drivers side. If you want dual subs the design will depend on whether or not you have a power rear window or not.
 

jdc753

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It sounds great for the size and it pounds hard but the problem is the councel, it vibrates the chit out of it. Be nice to pair it with something bigger like a 12 so it isnt working so hard and vibrating so bad.

That is more of a box and weight/stiffness issue... It would take some work but it shouldn't be too hard to get the console to stop vibrating.

I have a 12" sub in my center console and it only vibrates the loose junk in the cup holders if I am really pounding it, and I haven't done anything to stop it yet.



Think of it like when your using a sawzall and cutting something really thin, how the material being cut starts bouncing all around, or if you bite into something really hard and bind the blade and you start bouncing. The subwoofer needs a solid enough mass so that the only thing "bouncing" is the subwoofer cone and nothing else. If the box isn't stiff enough the forces created inside the box by the moving subwoofer will flex the box, which is seen in vibrations and resonances through the structure of the box and transfered into whatever is around the box. Some deadener on the inside of the flimsy plastic panels of the console would do wonders for the vibrations.


SPLK2.com.....really the best enclosures and real fast turnaround.

Yes!! if you can't build it yourself, then this is where to go.
 

powerlifter405

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SPLK2.com.....really the best enclosures and real fast turnaround.

sent them an email on pricing. It appears the box for dual 12"s is ported. I'm just under 2. cft and i fit it between the seatbelt attachment point and the passenger pillar but I moved the seat forward 1" and up 2". Id like it if i can do 2 of the JL in that same space.
 

taterthedog

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I went with SPL2k for a sub box in my wife's 05. Asked him some questions and answered some of his questions. Went with what he recommended. Single ported 12". Couldn't be happier. Micheal knows his stuff and was great to deal with in every way. When I get around to doing my 08, I'll be dealing with him again.
 

Big Stroker 6.4

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That is more of a box and weight/stiffness issue... It would take some work but it shouldn't be too hard to get the console to stop vibrating.

I have a 12" sub in my center console and it only vibrates the loose junk in the cup holders if I am really pounding it, and I haven't done anything to stop it yet.



Think of it like when your using a sawzall and cutting something really thin, how the material being cut starts bouncing all around, or if you bite into something really hard and bind the blade and you start bouncing. The subwoofer needs a solid enough mass so that the only thing "bouncing" is the subwoofer cone and nothing else. If the box isn't stiff enough the forces created inside the box by the moving subwoofer will flex the box, which is seen in vibrations and resonances through the structure of the box and transfered into whatever is around the box. Some deadener on the inside of the flimsy plastic panels of the console would do wonders for the vibrations.

Most of the vibration comes from the rear cup holders and where they mount to the back of the councel. The hinges and latch for the lid also vibrate. I am sure sound deadner would help.. But for all the work it would take to pull it apart, I will put up with it for now. Its not bad unless its cranked up with long drawn out bass riffs, like rap, but metal sounds fine. If I decide to add a couple more subs behind the rear seat and need to pull the seats out, I'd just tackle it then.
 

Bosshawg600

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It's spl2k.com but heir boxes look nice, and hard to beat the price!!!! When I start doing a stereo, I'm getting a 2 13" ported box and som JL shallow 13's!!!!!!!
 

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