Worth updating rockers, pushrods, rollers during stud job?

[MrOneEyedBoh]

My going to be sending my truck in soon and I was wondering what you guys think in terms of updating to the 6.4 push rods, the ported rockers and new rollers? My engine has 50k on it and I'll be getting studs here soon ( within 10k miles ) Im doing it for preventive maintenance, not because Im puking.

What ya guys think? I have an 06, so Im already doing the "normal" stuff in terms of updates

 

[HeavyAssault]

Hey why not add a cam while you are at it?

 

[kornfanjoe]

Hey why not add a cam while you are at it?

Cause he probably isn't gonna fully rip apart an engine with only 50k on it

 

[HeavyAssault]

For the upgrades/updates he's doing is it REALLY necessary at 50K?? Not really.

 

[kornfanjoe]

Studs, stc, dummy plugs and all that yea I'd say those are worthwhile upgrades and not very labour intensive except for the studs. The whole point is to fix things BEFORE its necessary.

I've never heard of swapping valvetrain components from a 6.4, just curious what made you think of that? Personally I'd upgrade the valvetrain if you had hp goals that it would help otherwise you should be good with the normal updates. Save the money for other goodies maybe a r.r setup.

 

[HeavyAssault]

If I had know more about cams when I had studs installed I would have gotten the cam done a long time ago. It's a MILD addition to a stock truck that IF one wanted to step up the game down the road it's easier to add a turbo and injectors. Sure you pay the up front costs but having to pull it all apart a second time is MUCH more expensive.

If all he wants is reliability then why crack the coin on parts with only 50k on them?? What are the costs for what he's asking about?? Is it double the cost of OEM parts?? Another $100 total??

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Heavy,
What do you mean its another 100? The rockers, pushrods etc? And whose came?

 

[HeavyAssault]

updating to the 6.4 push rods, the ported rockers and new rollers?

Do these parts only add $100 over the stock parts?? I never heard of ported rockers. Colt Cam is the one I've heard of being used the most.

 

[Chatham036]

Hey why not add a cam while you are at it?

I hardly EVER agree with him^^

But I do agree here. I am kicking myself each time I think about not doing mine. Also do a full port and polish on the exhaust ports in the head. That is the second thing I am kicking myself for not going ahead and doing....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mcdaniel1991]

To be honest I personally do not think it is necessary for you. Yes i am putting new pushrods, ported(new stock updated) rockers and lifters but i'm only doing that because my motor has 200K miles on it. I would do the normal upgrades. STC, Dummy plugs and stand pipes, turbo feed and drain, Studs and OEM gaskets. Maybe a oil cooler if your deltas are very far apart but the Lifters, pushrods and rockers cost me an extra $850.

Here are the part numbers if you decide you want to tho.

Lifters 8C3Z6C329B Need 4 sets
Pushrods 8C3Z6565B Need 16
Combo rockers 4C3Z6564AA Need 6
Singel exhaust rocker 3C3Z6564AB Need 2
Singel intake rocker 3C3Z6564BB Need 2
Rear main seal 3C3Z6701B
Rear cover gasket 3C3Z6D083AA

You will also have to drop the transmission.

 

[HeavyAssault]

After looking at the RCD site I would get with Colt Cam about a stock regrind. Considering the "billet" costs it's not a resonable item to buy for the intended use.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks guys.

I may just do pushrods since you hear about people bending them, and they are pretty damn cheap.

 

[mcdaniel1991]

Pushrods would not be a bad idea....

 

[ford rules]

Just do pushrods and valve springs.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

But to do valve springs that would require disassembly of the head. Rockers and lifters aren't a big deal. Well not as much as as removing the valves.. Right?

 

[Six_Sloww]

Best bet is if you trust your shop, let them make the call, mine needed valve train replacement at 150k, but we're talking the difference of 100k miles, if your truck has seen good maintenance it shouldn't be necessary.

 

[Mdub707]

I went through this whole train of thought when I tore mine down. I tossed around the idea of the cam... and if we pulled the engine or did it cab on I would have done it. It would require the removal of the trans, but it could of been done. The cam was $600, then I figured another $600-$800 for pushrods, valve springs and new rockers, or somewhere in that price range. I decided it was money I didn't feel like spending at the time, and I don't necessarily regret it. We ended up doing cab off anyway so the cam would have been more work.

I thought about just doing upgraded pushrods as well, but ultimately decided against it. After talking with a few guys who had been down that road, I realized there was no point in doing the upgraded pushrods. They're made to be the first part to fail for a reason. The thought behind the beefier pushrods was also that you're adding extra mass to the pushrods by going with a beefier design and actually making it easier to float the valves. How much easier? Not really sure, I never crunched any numbers on it, but the theory makes sense. More mass means the valve springs has more force it's working against. If you upgraded the valve springs it wouldn't be an issue, but then you have stiffer valve springs pushing harder on your cam. I know in the four wheeler world when we built those, it was a no-no to do the stiffer valve springs on a setup that wasn't turning any more RPM and didn't have a hardened camshaft because it just wore the cam out quicker. Again, probably not a big deal, but just something that wasn't necessary and seemed to have more cons than pros I guess, even if they were small cons.

My vote is either just use what you have now, or do it all at once, cam, pushrods, valve springs and run it.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks man. Never thought about the rods as the weakest link for a reason...

 

[Gearhead2012]

The 6.4 valve train components are all that's available from Ford. The 6.4 pushrods are 9.800" while 6.0 pushrods are 9.850. There are technical service bulletins about why they now recommend a .050" shorter pushrod, but in a nut shell 6.0's have waaay too much hydrualic lifter preload from thr factory which leads to the occasional misfire when the lifter actually forces the valve open at the wrong time due to the oil pressure in the lifter. I would recommend going with the shorter pushrods whenever the motor is apart, theyre cheap, and it lessens the lifter preload by .050", putting it closer to where it should be. The lifter plunger has around . 200" travel in the body, ford specs that you should have about .035-.045" lifter preload, but most 'virgin' 6.0's have about .150" preload.... Waaay too much. We set the valve height about . 030" lower than stock and use the shorter pushrods to achieve the adequate lifter preload of about . 040".

As for the rockers, if your stock ones aren't worn out, keep them. The 6.4 rockers have an oiling hole in the pivot (the part that rides on the bridge). The goal was to allow more oiling to the upper engine valve train components... But in actuality it just bleeds off what little amount of oil makes it to the pivot anyway. Plus, the 6.0 rockers have a chrome plated pivot, which holds up better than the hardened pivot in the 6.4's. The 6.4 pivot wears out quickly and then begins to bind up on the bridge and cause excessive valve guide wear. Despite 6.4's newer platform, and theoretical lower mileage over 6.0's, we throw out waaaay more 6.4 rockers than 6.0's, and I replace waaaay more 6.4 valve guides than 6.0's. Lots of factors there, but the change in valve train components from the factory is a big one.


I'd change the pushrods just for the lesser lifter preload, but leave the rockers alone of they're not worn out and sloppy.

 

[04cr450]

this^ i used the 6.4 push rods as well when Dale did my studs- everything else was left alone. Good post jared