WTF......When is it time to ship her?

[GreenMachine]

I've just about had enough of my 2000 right about now. Three weeks back my truck threw a p1316, for an idm. I bit the bullet and bought an aftermarket one for $270 or so. Ran like a champ.


Fast forward to tonight, snowing like a bastard, ready to go plow, and it decides it wants to throw a code. Can we guess what code? a p1316 AGAIN.

Now, i know this is just one issue, but over the last year it has been absolutely everything with this truck.

The little voice in my head says 'well you dont have a payment', but i swear to god every week something new chits the bed. Seems moog tie rods like to crap out every 5-10k for me, wheel bearings are like one every three months, power door actuator chit the bed. Second alternator in two years. New mile marker hubs. Most of the crap i just mentioned has been done in the last month.

Now with this idm issue i dont trust the truck. Saturday me and the lady friend went 120 miles one way up to holyoke, mass for a hockey game. Imagine if the tempermental biatch decided to throw the code there? I'd have been fuggged.

Long story short, I think its time to ship her. 220k has caught up to her i guess. And trust me i take care of her. Any ideas on how to fix this IDM issue so i can sell it?

 

[907DAVE]

Couple questions..

How long would you expect a $270 IDM to last?

Do you know there are many things that cause a P1316...besides the IDM?

Have you preformed a buzz test to verify the injector circuits are not the reason this code is set?

 

[BigAlsPSD]

As stated, the P1316 means that the IDM has stored codes, what are those codes? Usually a KOEO self test or Buzz will pull those codes from the IDM.

 

[Charles]

I can't help but ask..... aside from "throwing a code".... did the truck in any way actually run poorly, or stop running?

If not, then what's the big deal?

I would imagine that my truck has a running tally of around 15 to 20 codes at any given time.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

What everone else said plus - Since your truck is such a POS - I imagine it could be bought for fairly cheap right?

 

[JoeDaddy]

^^^^ whs. I have a handfull of benji's when you get tired of worrying about an impending breakdown, that has yet to happen, on a truck that owes you nothing.

 

[GreenMachine]

Guys I'm not retarded. Obviously it isn't just throwing a ses then running fine. It basically goes into limp mode. It will not get out of its own way, can't get over 10mph and feels like its running on maybe four cylinders.

I know that p1316 is an Idm code for store codes, but my scanner doesn't have the capability to pull them. The guy I've used in the past charges $150 to come out and run diagnostics and buzz tests etc.

I expected the $270 Idm to last a little longer than a month? Am I that wrong?

I am running a vbox sander in my bed that gets juice directly off my battery, along with a fisher snowplow which has some pretty complicated wiring under my hood. My old man just came in and floated the idea that the plow and sander were on the last time the truck cut out like this. He said maybe there is something with those two causing it.

I understand I owe nothing on the truck, but I'm constantly constantly wrenching between front end crap and just usually tons of stupid stuff. This Idm issue renders the truck inoperable, that's why I'm worried about reliability.

 

[GreenMachine]

Btw I was under the valve covers the last time this happened and the UVCH's were perfect.

 

[zilla68]

at 150.00 a pop to scan the truck, I'd just buy AE for a little over 300 and your set, trouble shoot your own truck and save some cash.

just a thought.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

Btw I was under the valve covers the last time this happened and the UVCH's were perfect.

What was the test parameters used to determine that they were perfect?

 

[Fordcowboy]

It sounds like it's a hit and miss problem that comes and goes. So even if you were under the valve covers and did all the tests of ohming everything out, unless it was at the time the SES was on and the truck was not firing, the tests could have shown everything was fine. Then you drop your plow, or hit a bump and the UVCH wiggles loose, and you are on 4 cylinders. Just throwing it out there. It could be some big POS, or it could be something simple that you haven't found yet.

 

[Charles]

Sounds like the UVC plug, or maybe even a chaffed wire, like maybe the high side on the bank that keeps dropping.

A buzz test when the problem was underway would be an exceptional start.

If you can't do that, then when it's running like garbage next time, unplug each uvc at the engine harness plug one at a time to see if nothing changes when one of them is unplugged and you will have at least narrowed it down to one bank.

And you just might see the truck snap right back in line the second you wiggle one of them, in which case, take the "perfect" UVC from that side out and install another one.

 

[ToMang07]

It sounds like it's a hit and miss problem that comes and goes. So even if you were under the valve covers and did all the tests of ohming everything out, unless it was at the time the SES was on and the truck was not firing, the tests could have shown everything was fine. Then you drop your plow, or hit a bump and the UVCH wiggles loose, and you are on 4 cylinders. Just throwing it out there. It could be some big POS, or it could be something simple that you haven't found yet.

I agree....sounds like a UVCH. Did you shim the connectors when you were in there? (50 cent mod?)

 

[GreenMachine]

Sorry if I sound like a douche that's not my intent. It's just difficult right now I have six classes and I don't have much time to wrench on the truck anymore.

I inspected the UVCH's with my eye balls. That's what a mechanic buddy said to do.

 

[Hotrodtractor]

Sorry if I sound like a douche that's not my intent. It's just difficult right now I have six classes and I don't have much time to wrench on the truck anymore.

I inspected the UVCH's with my eye balls. That's what a mechanic buddy said to do.

Well - if it sounds like I am picking on you - its because I am - but with good intentions. LOL

You can't inspect electrical wires with your eyes and your eyes alone. Your mechanic buddy is the reason I work on my own stuff.

 

[zankof]

I had a similar issue a couple years ago, bought an IDM and everything. Turned out to be a wire that come from the IDM up to the engine had rubbed through the casing and was grounding out agains the block and causing one of my injectors to not fire.

 

[GreenMachine]

Well - if it sounds like I am picking on you - its because I am - but with good intentions. LOL

You can't inspect electrical wires with your eyes and your eyes alone. Your mechanic buddy is the reason I work on my own stuff.

Your telling me, i do all my own because i don't trust anyone.

I can take the ball busting, i appreciate the ideas and criticism, i need all the help i can get.

Riddle me this though, if the UVCH's were the cause, why when i replaced the IDM did the issue go cold for three or four weeks?

Now suddenly it appears again when i have the plow and sander on during a snow storm? Could there be a electrical interference coming from either of those to items which is Fawking the IDM up?

 

[Hotrodtractor]

Your telling me, i do all my own because i don't trust anyone.

I can take the ball busting, i appreciate the ideas and criticism, i need all the help i can get.

Riddle me this though, if the UVCH's were the cause, why when i replaced the IDM did the issue go cold for three or four weeks?

Now suddenly it appears again when i have the plow and sander on during a snow storm? Could there be a electrical interference coming from either of those to items which is Fawking the IDM up?

Real high level here - those items could be causing a low voltage which is freaking the IDM out. Those items could be causing some sort of electrical interference, or it could be just a coincidence.

You could have a small break in a wire that just happens to have showed it self on two occasions 4 weeks apart - this break could be internal and would require actually ohming out the harness. You could also have a problem at the connector both inside or outside of the valve cover.

 

[bad12jr]

Running the plow and such can also cause the body and frame to flex which could have caused a wire to move. Believe me I have seen stranger happen.

Sent from my DROID X2 chillin somewhere

 

[Wackerjr]

Without pulling the ACTUAL codes out of the IDM... it's like turning the lights off at the door and trying to find the wet spot....
In other words your shooting in the dark.....

Putting an IDM in prob wasn't your prob all along...."whatever" the prob is is still clearly there.....find a way to get the IDM codes out of it and "turn the lights back on"