WTF......When is it time to ship her?

GreenMachine · Mar 1, 2012

Where is the best place to purchase ae? Me and a buddy are thinkin of splitting it. What's the best package etc to get?

GreenMachine · Mar 1, 2012

I'm thinking rather then pay someone to diagnose again

patrickke · Mar 1, 2012

I think Irate sells AE

2000wa250 · Mar 1, 2012

For the price that you listed for a diagnostic you would pay for AE in two runs. Considering you could pull the codes and find out it was something go to fix that and not find the issues then have it all happen again and pay for another diagnostic.

Bite the bullet. Call clay at riffraff and order your AE. If you work on your own rig it will pay for itself in the first month. It is an amazing tool and one that anyone who is serious about not paying someone to work on their truck and takes pride in doing it themselves should have. If you're pulling the valve covers you don't use a crescent wrench, you use the right sized socket or wrench. Why would you use the wrong tool (guess and check) on electronic issues as opposed to the correct tool?

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chappy · Mar 1, 2012

Alright Please tell me you didn't get the idm from a electronic place in Florida off ebay.

JoeDaddy · Mar 1, 2012

You'd only only be happy with the new 1 till the first "Cab-off-chassis" and "Moth-flys-out-of-wallet" mod. Keep going with this one, keep asking these guys when you're about to give up. Possibly the 2 most well educated guys on the forum are still 7.3 guys. Must be a reason????

Good luck!

UpstateDieselGuy · Mar 1, 2012

First off, Electric over Hydraulic Plows are electrical vampires. Is your spreader electrical too? I doubt it, but I had to ask. The more you run it, the more it drains the trucks electrical system. Everything under the hood, Automatic Transmission, etc. is electrical and with low voltage go crazy.

Chris

GreenMachine · Mar 2, 2012

chappy said:
Alright Please tell me you didn't get the idm from a electronic place in Florida off ebay.

No, i didn't get it off ebay. My local parts store, kind of like a Napa or Oreillys but local here, hooks me up with parts really cheap usually. I was in there for a tierod and i was b*tching and moaning about the $950 Ford wanted so he found me one from his warehouse.

I'm going to give Clay at RiffRaff a call, i've dealt with him before and he was a good guy. I'm going to heed your advice and get the AE and diagnose it correctly rather than acting like a dumbazz and running around with my head cut-off.

GreenMachine · Mar 2, 2012

UpstateDieselGuy said:
First off, Electric over Hydraulic Plows are electrical vampires. Is your spreader electrical too? I doubt it, but I had to ask. The more you run it, the more it drains the trucks electrical system. Everything under the hood, Automatic Transmission, etc. is electrical and with low voltage go crazy.

Chris

I know the plows can be battery suckers, but batts are new and so is the alternator. The spreader isn't electric, i was going to go electric, and im glad now i didn't.

Speaking of the spreader, i've got an idea that i want validated.

The Sander uses a 10hp pony motor to run the unit, and usually is run off a self-contained battery on the side. Alot of guys i know delete the battery on the unit because it's unreliable, and they run power straight back from their own batteries.

So me being a follower......I ran a circut breaker off my passenger side battery, and from there ran heavy gauge jumper cables back to the sander in my chassis. I used one wire to ground right to the battery, the other i grabbed juice off the circut breaker. I then used a tow truck set of jumper plugs, one on the sander and one on the truck side wiring.

Works great, never has a dead battery, so the sander always starts.

Now that i have that explained, my theory: The pony motor has a alternator built in to charge its self contained battery right? well even though i deleted the battery, its still pumping juice. SO..............Yesterday i popped the breaker and started the sander, while it was running i voltage tested the cable, and the unit was backfeeding my power cable with 6.5-7 volts. Is this an issue? Could i have overcharged the system and fried the IDM?

Just a thought. School me oh knowledgable guru's.

Many thanks.

GreenMachine · Mar 2, 2012

Is $359 gunna be the best price for ae? I am about to order from riff raff.

UpstateDieselGuy · Mar 2, 2012

Yes. You should have any Isolator on that setup or remove the Alternator on the spreader.

Chris

GreenMachine · Mar 2, 2012

What do you mean isolator?

Worstenemy453 · Mar 2, 2012

It acts like a one way diode so it won't back feed into the trucks system most of your rv type places will have them. Kinda the same principal with there onboard generators.

sethc24 · Mar 2, 2012

Ha. lol you have it easy. My motor burns 4 litres of oil every 800km of driving. Torque converter is slipping bad. Tranny is on its way out. Although the rest of the truck is great lol.

UpstateDieselGuy · Mar 3, 2012

Exactly as stated above, it allows power to go from the truck to the sander without allowing the sander to back feed to the truck. I would just remove the power generation from the sander as it is not needed/used and is a parasitic loss for the unit. I love my PowerStrokes for plowing, but the plows are hard on them especially when running the lights, heat, etc. You may want to look into having your alternator rebuilt for a higher output to help during high load situations.

Chris