Test mule build

Here's the build on my '08 F-350 we (Elite Diesel) have been using as a parts test mule. We've done a handful of tests on it so far, with good success, but ran into reliability issues on the 177K mile original engine that apparently ran water in the cooling system (before I bought it) for quite a while, rusting the entire cooling system portion of the block causing the oil cooler to fill with rust flakes and plug up. My injection pump also got pretty weak, so we decided to build it for a good, consistent platform for testing products. The truck also recently started making a knocking sound, so a new short block is going in now.




Truck description including non powertrain mods:

.'08 CCLB F-350 Lariat SRW built 01/07
.*6"Fabtech lift w/ fabtech traction bars
.*20X9 Ballistic Jester wheels w/ 37" Toyo M/T's
.*Firestone air bags
.*B&W 5th wheel hitch
.*in-bed tool box below the rails
.*retard handle delete at tailgate step
FWIW, the truck weighed 8450 with 1/4 tank, and me in it before the tool box & air bags were added. I'll re-weigh it as needed for test purposes.

Performance mods previously done:

*Innovative tuned SCT Livewire
*Elite stage 3+ full billet transmission w/ prototype clutch material
*Elite HD torque converter
*Elite billet flexplate
*Job 2 updated transmission lines, filter, & pan
*Open element air intake courtesy of Erik Clausen
*No-limit CAC pipe
*Elite Stage 1 cam
*Air Dog DF 165
*Elite 1722 head studs
*Elite HD valve springs
*Elite Chromoly push rods
*new rocker arm assemblies
*Elite basic EGR delete
*Flo-Pro 4" downpipe back exhaust w/o muffler
*CCV to exhaust system via venturi

Mods taking place this round:

*"new" Low mile engine block with torque plate honing, threaded galley plugs, and decked .010"
*Elite HD pistons ceramic coated & decked to match the block
*total seal piston rings
*Dieselsite coolant bypass filter
*4" downpipe
*Elite wastegate kit
*Elite Airdog upgrade
*Elite dual K16 injection pumps
*Elite 60 HP injector nozzles
*6.0L exhaust manifolds with Elite up pipes
*new hydraulic lifters
*new oil cooler

I might have forgot a thing or two, but it'll be going back together with stock turbos as a new baseline test. From there it'll be getting more air among other things.

Anyway, I got a good start on the project last night, and am getting ready to torque the heads on now. Here's a couple progress pics.

^Here's the pistons, total seal rings, and stock rods going in the engine

^nearly bare block with crank & cam installed

^short block mostly complete with oil pan, new oil cooler, new lifters & rotating assembly installed.

I hope to have the heads fully torqued on within the hour. More progress pics & info to come.

Very nice, it oughta run good! Best of luck with it for sure!

Looks good Wayne, sounds like it should be a reliable test truck from here on out.

Dave

Looks Great Forsure !! nice looking rig!!

Wayne, looks good and very interested to see what you all throw at it after she goes back together.

Right on, Wayne!



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Now you can beat on something that should be able to take it. :swordfight: I am interested in the new oil cooler, something I may want to do sometime. Or now if possible.

Thanks guys. It will definitely be nice to be able to beat on it like I need to without it breaking down. We to some pretty rigorous tests on our products.

BTW, Here's one of the studs just before it went in. We now use teflon paste thread sealant on the bottom of the studs going into the block. One of the problems my original engine had, was when I put the studs in, a couple hairline cracks developed under the studs allowing coolant to come up past the top threads, and into my oil. I know of a few other trucks that have also had this problem when studs were added, so all of them got the paste just to be sure. I might also mention that the studs in this engine have just been installed for the 4th time, and are still doing great. These studs were in both of Erik's engines, and went to me when he traded them in on custom aged units.



I also got the heads on, glow plugs in, and valvetrain finished, but the pic is taking too long to upload, so I'll have to post it tomorrow if it will go.

What else is Erik trading in over there?? lol




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One of the problems my original engine had, was when I put the studs in, a couple hairline cracks developed under the studs allowing coolant to come up past the top threads, and into my oil. I know of a few other trucks that have also had this problem when studs were added, so all of them got the paste just to be sure.

Click to expand...

Is this a risk we take every time we add studs to a motor? Is it caused by too much torque when we add the aftermarket studs?

You've done a nice job making the red truck look good Wayne - Build looks solid

Wayne said:

BTW, Here's one of the studs just before it went in. We now use teflon paste thread sealant on the bottom of the studs going into the block. One of the problems my original engine had, was when I put the studs in, a couple hairline cracks developed under the studs allowing coolant to come up past the top threads, and into my oil. I know of a few other trucks that have also had this problem when studs were added, so all of them got the paste just to be sure. I might also mention that the studs in this engine have just been installed for the 4th time, and are still doing great. These studs were in both of Erik's engines, and went to me when he traded them in on custom aged units.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, could that be what happened with mine?

Thanks Mink.
Danny:
I'll find that out tomorrow, and fill you in. Mine is the first I knew of with the problem, then I started asking around. Dustin's race engine did it, and was cured by the Teflon. A couple others Tadd was aware of, but didn't do also did it, and were cured the same way. I speculate that some blocks are weaker than others. Tadd also discovered that his new engine in the Shorty also did it to one of the studs. That makes it a frequent enough occurrence that all will be getting Teflon paste from here on out as a precautionary measurement unless/until a better solution is found. I believe our instructions will also be rewritten based off of this knowledge.

Looking forward to this

I should also mention that the pic I posted of the stud with Teflon on it is not the proper way to paste it. Only the threads need it, not the body. The paste went up the body when it was installed. I pulled it out for a pic.

can I call in and get some paste when mine come out over the holidays?

Wayne said:

I should also mention that the pic I posted of the stud with Teflon on it is not the proper way to paste it. Only the threads need it, not the body. The paste went up the body when it was installed. I pulled it out for a pic.

Click to expand...

Are you worried about hydraulic pressure from the paste cracking the block?

Sure. The Teflon paste is available just about anywhere though. I got mine at NAPA.

Wouldnt not placing the stud all way down stop it from happening?? Ive heard of many say stop a 1/4 turn from bottoming out so if they do decide to strech that it gives it room and not bust block. I know on my Dodge I did that route

Not worried about hydraulic pressure. You can hear the air escape as the stud is threaded in. The paste stays in liquid form for a while. Every time I install studs, I run them all the way in to about 10 lb/ft, back them off about 1/2 turn, then hand tighten. I seriously doubt a stud would grow in the opposite direction of the tension, especially enough to push in to the bottom of the bore enough to crack the block. I've been wrong before though.