03 f350 will not start

[Bustedknuckles]

Let us know what the cranking icp is. It needs to hit 500 before the truck will fire the injectors. Just worked on two in a row that had blown o-rings on the top of the injector causing a no start when hot. Could be a bad IPR too.

 

[Atsah]

Also while we are on the subject of changing the oil. What is the best oil to use, the best filter, the best fuel filter? Don't know if these 6.0's seem to like a certain brand of oil and how much do these things hold?

Oil, If your going to use conventional oil 15W40, Motorcraft is what I used with good results. If your going to use a synthetic 5W40, Valveline extreme blue is good oil. I would stay away from Rotella oil in the 6.0. Mobil 1 5W40 is also good oil as is Amsoil.. If you do run a 5W40 oil you can use it year round, if you use a 15W40 in the spring summer and fall, I would recommend a HD 10W30 weight in the winter.

Oil = 15qt's with the filter change.
Motorcraft or Racor filters
You have TWO fuel filters, one near your oil filter housing and one on the framerail under the drives seat.

No enough, old burnt oil in a 6.0 with fuel filters that have not been changed for a long time will cause serious problems in a 6.0 to say the least.

Fuel filters should be replaced every other oil change..

Considering your second to last post, If I were you, I wouldn't even be trying to start the truck without changing the oil and fuel filters, just to elimate that being an issue to start with.. If the oil is low, burnt and old, that may very well be what is causing your issues to begin with.. The sooner you change the oil and change your filters, the better..

Good quality clean oil at all times is essential for a 6.0 to run correctly..

 

[97strokn&smokn]

Sounds to me like a broken oring in the rail or a bad oil tube.

 

[mac2720]

I just picked up oil and oil filter. Will be stopping tomorrow to grab some fuel filters and will change everything out tomorrow.

On the subject of bad o rings on the injectors. I just got this thing out the shop less than a week ago because of a no start in which the glow plugs were replaced. I havent had any major starting issues other than just having to crank it a few times in the morning since I got it. When it was in the shop, the mechanic had said that the fuel and oil pressure checked out good on the scanner. Would the bad o rings cause a bad reading on the scanner which he could diagnose as the problem? I guess what im asking is, would it be a noticeable difference in fuel pressure or oil pressure when its hooked up to the scanner? Or would that be something that would just have to be checked mechanically?

I am almost positive that it is something to do with the fuel or oil pressure because the truck will not even try to fire now. It will just crank and crank and crank but wont even make an effort to start like it was doing before it went to the shop. Therefore, I am guessing that everything may have checked out on the scanner when it was in the shop but now something has went bad causing either bad fuel or oil pressure. (Lets hope its nothing major)

That mechanic is supposed to be out here either tomorrow or the next day to hook his scanner up and see what its reading. I am hoping he will come out here when I get off work so I can see the readings for myself and not just go off what he is telling me. Thanks everybody for the advice I have received thus far!

 

[Atsah]

Not knowing how much oil is in the motor and the burnt condition of it tells me this truck was not takin care of very well.. Time to change all fluids and filters.. When you get it running properly again, next thing on your list should be to flush the coolant and change the filter so your oil cooler stays intact and doen't get gummed up..

You may have a bad IPR as mentioned above as well..

 

[Atsah]

What did you buy for oil and filters?

 

[mac2720]

I bout some 5w 40 rotella and motorcraft oil filter. I have read some good stuff about this oil and figured I would try it.

What is the purpose of the IPR? I have read about the screen getting bad and all. I am hoping to have the mechanic scan this thing and let me see what it all says. However, he hasn't really impressed me to this point. Is it worth taking the truck to a ford dealership where techs are trained to work on these motors? I really want to know what it wrong with the truck so it can be fixed for good. But im also not trying to go broke just getting the truck to start and from previous experience, I believe that is what will happen if I take it to a ford dealership.

 

[TonyG]

what kind of scanner is your mechanic using? he should be able to screen shot the readings everyone is asking you for? if you dont know where you stand with everything your really just chasing your tail and will waste countless dollars, auto engenuity or a ford IDS will produce your best results.... to me it sounds like your having a high pressure oil issue or a injection issue..... does the truck do anything else but idle ruff? any smoke out of the exhaust? does the motor seam louder or lope? i would vote against being a ICP or IPR sencor issue because more then likey it would show up on more then a cold start.... Where are you from?

 

[mac2720]

what kind of scanner is your mechanic using? he should be able to screen shot the readings everyone is asking you for? if you dont know where you stand with everything your really just chasing your tail and will waste countless dollars, auto engenuity or a ford IDS will produce your best results.... to me it sounds like your having a high pressure oil issue or a injection issue..... does the truck do anything else but idle ruff? any smoke out of the exhaust? does the motor seam louder or lope? i would vote against being a ICP or IPR sencor issue because more then likey it would show up on more then a cold start.... Where are you from?

I'm not sure what scanner he is using but this time I should be there to see what it's reading or I will definitely ask for a screen shot. Up to this point the only real problem I have had is the truck not starting and the rough idle on start up. When it would actually start up before, it would idle really rough until it warmed up and the turbo kicked in. In the morning, I would have to crank it 4 or 5 times and push the gas pedal down to get it started and keep it running. When it was doing this i would notice some white smoke on start up until it warmed up and then it would change to black smoke. I haven't really paid too much attention to the motor noise cuz the truck is just loud. It's got 4 inch straight pipe all the way back so it's never really quiet. And no I've never really noticed a lope other than just the rough idle on start up.

It would be great if it were a sensor but would that show up on the scanner? As of 2 days ago the truck will not try to fire at all, there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust when it's being cranked.

 

[TonyG]

So when the truck actually does cold start can you raise RPM? Or can you hold the pedal to the floor and get very little response from it? Because there is a issue called sticktion ( use the search bar to see all the issues it causes), and as far as the turbo starting to howl.... That's not really related the veritable vain controller self adjusts due to engine rpm and throttle %. The turbo could be totally removed from the truck and probably wouldn't effect the starting/idle, just get it to someone with a valid scan tool and have them read icp during cranking the motor, idle speed and had them do a injector buzz test and power balance.... If they don't know what any of those things are find someone else HaHa, also you keep saying the truck has no codes? Do you mean No MIL? Or really has no PCM based codes because there is a HUGE difference.... You can literally unplug half the injectors and get no MIL.... But still have a code that yet again only a real scan tool can verify.... Where are you from? Maybe a fellow forum member can help you out or atleast direct you in the direction of a good mechanic

 

[mac2720]

So when the truck actually does cold start can you raise RPM? Or can you hold the pedal to the floor and get very little response from it? Because there is a issue called sticktion ( use the search bar to see all the issues it causes), and as far as the turbo starting to howl.... That's not really related the veritable vain controller self adjusts due to engine rpm and throttle %. The turbo could be totally removed from the truck and probably wouldn't effect the starting/idle, just get it to someone with a valid scan tool and have them read icp during cranking the motor, idle speed and had them do a injector buzz test and power balance.... If they don't know what any of those things are find someone else HaHa, also you keep saying the truck has no codes? Do you mean No MIL? Or really has no PCM based codes because there is a HUGE difference.... You can literally unplug half the injectors and get no MIL.... But still have a code that yet again only a real scan tool can verify.... Where are you from? Maybe a fellow forum member can help you out or atleast direct you in the direction of a good mechanic

I get plenty of throttle response when I push the gas pedal down to start it up so I don't think it's te Stiction problem although I have thought about adding some rev x to help a little with the cold starting. And when I say no codes, it's just not throwing a check engine and I was TOLD by the mechanic he didn't get codes on his scan tool. Again idk exactly what he means so hopefully he will be here today so I can see for myself. The truck also has a tag on the engine that states the PCM was reprogrammed in 05. Not sure what it means but it did catch my eye. I am working in Danville, va right now which is where the truck is.

 

[TonyG]

Yea a basic snap on scanner or something of its style won't show "silent" codes but a IDS or auto enginuity will, any ford dealer should have a IDS but I don't have a clue what there diag fee is or if they will even just do that with out parts replacement.... Maybe try to call a local dealer and see if you can leave the truck over night so it will cold start and replicate the problem and they can use the IDS.... Cost mite seem high when you talk to the dealer but remember you mite be wasting every dollar your spending with the current "mechanic"

 

[mac2720]

Yeah I think the next place I will be taking it is to a ford dealership but I won't be able to take it there to replicate the problem because it currently won't start in my own driveway. May have to end up paying that hefty tow bill. I'm just wanting to be done with this starting problem, it's probably the most irritating thing ever knowing I just paid all of this money to get the truck, get tags, inspection, and take it to the shop and drop more money on it and the truck is still sitting in my driveway cuz it won't start.

 

[TonyG]

Yea that's prob gonna be what it takes, if you get a screen shot post it and or a diagnosis of the problem

 

[mac2720]

just finished changing the oil and fuel filters. Oil was really dark (definitely needed a change). Fuel filters looked surprisingly good and probably didn't need to be changed but did it anyway. Truck still wouldnt try to fire so it didnt fix the problem by any means but the oil needed to be changed either way.

Hopefully this mechanic will out here this evening to hook the scan tool up and let me see for myself. I talked to him earlier and he said again that the oil pressure was reading great when he scanned it last week. He also said that he didn't notice and bad readings in the fuel pressure, FICM, glow plug module, etc. If this is all true, then it could possibly be the IPC or IPR. I was told that the IPC was replaced last year by the previous owner but he lied about a lot of stuff so who knows. I wouldn't think the IPC was bad because I havent noticed any kinds of leaks since I got the truck.

 

[Atsah]

No start at all now? my money is on IPR.. Let us know what you find..

 

[mac2720]

No start at all, exact same problem it has been doing. It just cranks but still wont even try to fire. I even checked the FICM again just for the hell of it and it was perfect. It never dropped below 48 when the key was on or even when it was being cranked.

It may be the IPR but thats something that I can't really check myself. Also would that throw a code or come up bad when it is being scanned? Or would you just have to come to the conclusion that the IPR was bad based on oil pressure or fuel pressure readings from the scan tool?

 

[Atsah]

A good scanner will tell you what's failing..

 

[mac2720]

The more and more I read about the no start/ long crank issue, I think it is either the IPC or the IPR. Although the IPC from what I can tell is not leaking (at least not bad because there are absoltely no oil leaks on the ground). However, with it being an 03, both of these sensors are really hard to get to and I don't know if I trust myself doing it.

If anything I wanted to try to unplug the IPC and see if it will start up then. Which would definitely tell me it was the IPC or something else.

 

[mac2720]

Well the truck is off to a local ford dealership. Supposed to be picked up in the next hour or so and they said they will be checking into it today. Now hopefully I can get the problem fixed for good. What is the best way to go about it? I just know that they are going to go in and diagnose the biggest problem there is and try to charge me for it. They are supposed to call me once they hook the scanner up to it and figure out the problem so I can come down there.

Is there anything that I need to be aware of with taking the truck to ford? I do expect to be charged out the a** for the repair. But any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to know the problem by the end of the day.